Akula69

:agree: Earl Scheib. I think a Schwaab is a midget chicken or some other edible bird thing Jim. :agree: x2

No problem! I know it has been rebuilt in the past, but I don't know when (or at what mileage) so I have to say it has 220K on it.,,,because that is what is shown on the odometer.

This one has approx. 220K. Runs good, does not burn oil. Of course, that mileage is why its being sold for $75.00

Covington Louisiana

5 hour drive to buy the one I have for sale. Its actually still in the jeep and running if you want to hear it. $75.00 complete.

Too bad they stopped this after the war. I might be interested in buying a $50.00 crate jeep.... From the text, these pictures were taken at the Ford (yeah, I said Ford) assembly plant in California, where the Willys were crated for shipment to England and Russia by boat. To the best of the author's knowledge, none of the "Crate Jeeps for $50.00" still exist in the original crate. They were fully assembled except for the wheels, steering wheel and windshield. In the late 40's, Popular Mechanics magazine ran advertisements from companies who stated "You can get a Willys Jeep for $20.00 and a postage paid return envelope", but most folks soon learned they were buying a catalogue on how to purchase government surplus...... Still, a tribute to the ingenuity of the Americans and businesses at the time.

Thought about this. However, the XJ has more then just missing fender flares and a disgusting interior. At some point in its life it struck a curb or other low item that was harder then the body and sprung the passenger door frame. Essentially it rains into the vehicle on that side, and you can only see the damage if you get up under the unibody. I tried to re-set the door in it's frame, but ultimately it would require a stretching session on a frame machine to make it right. The floor pan on the passenger side is well rusted through as well. Mechanically and electrically its good...but unibody-wise its not worth the repair.

Been a long time on this one.... Took a break from MJ after RyanL's in the 88-99 conversion (http://comancheclub.com/topic/38725-89-resto-to-99-conversion/page-1). Now, I finally found a donor jeep for Junior. Pictures below of a 2000 XJ 2WD 2 door with 110K on the body and 12K on the engine rebuild. It was sold with a "blown" AW4 transmission (which upon initial inspection made me shake my head :doh: ) for $450.00. After flushing the AT+4 / motor oil mix out of the transmission I changed the filter and refilled with AT+4 - transmission is fine. Still filthy inside, but that will change soon.... This will be a similar conversion to Ryan's but without the floor pan replacement. At this time Junior will stay 2WD until I get rid of many of the extra parts I have for the Pre-92 model MJ.

wimpy...I use a chainsaw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ-slvv_ZT4

that would be OK until he backs up.....

Interesting work on the tank. Couple of questions if you don't mind: 1) What sealant did you use around the rollover valve and sender? 2) Did you weld the old sender hole shut or just throw the old MJ sender back in? 3) Did you make or buy the hold downs for the XJ sender? Thanks!

I have the dash, seat belts and all trim panels in fair shape from an 88. The seatbelt buckles are the old AMC style. The bucket seats are in poor shape and have seat covers. PM me if you are interested.

Not trying to hijack, but the question begs: What about MT springs (the Hells Creek 1700 LB ones) and the Cryco 8.25? Threads have pointed out the 8.25 is a beefier housing and the tubes are stronger...but stronger then the D44?

Leaking water from a 'T' fitting makes me lean towards overheating. The exhaust ports for cylinders 3 and 4 are close together on the head, and has been a source of multiple problems in the past (vapor lock on #3 injector; cracks in head, and gasket failures) even without an overheat condition. I would suggest getting the head checked for warp and try a new gasket and then check your compression.

There are more then a few reasons why coolant can enter the into the bore(s), and the culprit is (usually) the head gasket, but could be any of the following: 1) Crack in cylinder/water jacket (which would 'force' the head gasket due to incompressibility of coolant) 2) Too much compression or Detonation (perhaps caused by EGR failure - but 92 doesn't have EGR?) 3) Improper re-assembly (oops!) 4) Overheating 5) Cracked head and/or other head issues. Do you know what the person(s) you sold it to did to the motor...did they abuse it? Sitting for two years and then starting up (without a couple of turns on the oil pump through the distributor hole or at least a squirt of oil though the spark plug hole) can cause the rings to stick. Did you try and turn the engine over with a wrench on the harmonic balancer before cranking it after the storage?

Hmm.. it also resembles the socket holders on a stringer in my socket wrench drawer...

Star Destroyer wash included? it looks a little dusty.....

Thanks Jim!

Poetic Justice? Lol

Sort of a "Have you ever" kind of questions: While rebuilding a 4.0L for 'Junior' I got a little too enthusiastic while cranking the water pump bolts which cracked the upper right 'ear' on the block. Normally I would just trash the block and start over, but this particular block has intrigued me (a 1987 casting with 300,000 miles on it: the cylinders had little/no apparent wear with no ridge ring and did not need overbore, took standard bearings on cam, crank and rods). It had NOT been rebuilt - still had original bearings. I should say that the water jacket is NOT compromised, its it the outside of the mounting bolt hole that fractured. I cannot see any cracks in the gasket surface itself, nor any cracks through the 'ear' into the jacket area. First question: Has anyone ever bored that 'ear' all the way through (so the bolt could have more gripping strength)? if so it would preclude having to weld/repair the block. Second question: Has anyone successfully used 'JB Weld' or any of its cousins on a block? Third question: If neither of the first two are successful, has anyone ran a block with only the three bolts? The water pump has numerous brackets that attach on that side and the brackets attach to the block in other locations....they could (in theory) keep the pump tightly in place... Thanks!

Yep x2

Did have this problem (major voltage drop) on the 89 (now 99). In the 89, it centered on the ignition switch. Even after going through the entire harness and upgrading grounds, replacing power leads from the battery the ignition switch is apparently the weak link in the dash electronics harness, as almost all of the voltage for the dash moves through the switch. In some cases I have even seen the plugs and/or switch partially melted together due to the resistance. After the upgrade to the 99 dash and electronics I noticed the draw was still major when the blower is switched on - after some research found the age of the blower motor and resistor seemed to have a lot to do with it. Replaced the blower - and the excessive draw stopped. Aged windings...weak magnets...you want to weigh in here Don?

If the mounting 'ears' (that engage the locking ring) are still sound you can easily refurbish that unit. I would remove all the parts except the sender, tape the sender very well and then sandblast the metal. Once cleaned I'd look for small pin holes and deep voids, filling them with a steel epoxy filler. Then paint the entire unit with a fuel proof paint such as glass kote (two part epoxy paint used in scale modeling). You can still order the harness assembly if you look hard enough - but would have to put a splice (I used bullet connecters) in the two wires for ease of removal. New pump (I used Bosch) and hoses.

I have read the posts in the forum concerning the swap from a metric, vertical pre-1991 oil filter adapter assembly and the post-1991 assembly. While I know the changeover is possible with the right parts, has anyone actually done this? I am *not* talking about just changing out the center threaded stud so you can use the 3/4 filters, I am talking about the whole swap which rotates the filter 90 degrees to the rear. The problem is: it appears the charcoal filter housing is in the way. If you have done it did you relocate the charcoal filter or use a kit to relocate the oil filter? Thanks