Akula69

Update: Been working on the gas tank and sender issues. Basically going with a brand new short bed tank without the slosh pan and using the 01XJ sending unit and a split ring mount from Genright. Tank with Genright ring Old Sending unit to seal side hole Cut sending unit More to follow as soon as I find some Nitrile rubber sheeting in 1.5MM for gaskets... And - Color: 2K epoxy sealer Masked up Base coat Clear coat (through the booth window) Bedside Gate Engine bay Door Frame The cab and flares/nose will get shot tonight. More to follow!

Alright - off to the paint booth yesterday - should have some pictures tomorrow (hopefully)!

Recently we did the Willwood conversion on my son's truck. We ordered the valve and the mounting kit - although we had to bend the mount slightly (in a bench vise) to attach it to the booster so the bottom lines would clear the inner fender. Basically, we removed all the brake lines as intact as possible (we had to cut the front passenger line in one spot to remove it). We removed both the lines going to the rear, including the height sensing valve and the two short lines between the height sensing valve and the flex line for the rear axle. Using a cloth measuring tape we carefully measured each line, adding about 10 " (to ensure we had extra if a flare went bad). Using new steel line coils we cut to length and flared the end closest to the flex lines (calipers and rear axle). Using line bending pliers we carefully made each bend while holding the old and new lines together. Finally, without attaching any lines, one person carefully feeds them through and around the obstacles until the lines were in place. We only installed one line to the back, routing it directly to the frame mount where the rear axle flex line attached. We fed both lines from the master cylinder into the two inlet lines on the proportioning valve. The two short lines in the Wilwood installation kit did not work - we had to bend and fit two lines that were less then 3" long - which was the hardest part in my opinion. Otherwise, fill and bleed the system and then test it carefully to ensure the rears lock up just a millisecond before the fronts. A tip: once we had it adjusted where we wanted, my son took a bottle of his mom's nail polish and made a small mark so if he ever adjusted it he would know where the "sweet" spot was. We also found this tool set (especially the bender) to be useful: Available here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5VN94W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0075XHDHI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TGGW8JEBM2WY5Y444G4 Good Luck!

Yeah - that sucks. I took the hood catches off of my parts XJ when it arrived (with cable broken) swearing I'd never do that job again....

Wow Rob that's a clean ride! First time I've ever seen under the hood on one...is that the computer mounted right in front of the battery?

Thanks Alexia. Perhaps the person I got the info from was one who had a 'bastard' of a time with his....I don't think he ever got it working correctly.

I'm in. We have a contest here for "Best non-pedophile growth" Keeps the youngsters honest.....

http://comancheclub.com/topic/43564-deleting-load-sensing-valve/?hl=load+sensing+valve

The 1999 through 2001 XJ harness uses a control bus system (similar to the old IBM token ring setup - if you remember that) whereas the 1998 1/2 and lower years and older did not. The computer senses the devices on the loop, or bus, and if one does not respond it sends a 'NOBUS' message to the odometer screen and other various problems can occur (depending on the missing sensor(s). I have never tried to mate the two harnesses, but based upon the computer's programming I'd say if you could actually get it to start it would be in a low performance state.

Done. Thanks Pete

Adam - I suggest that a .40 cal wire bore brush will clean out the other boss holes in the block (or you can run a tap in them). Either way, it'll make the bolts go in easier!

Bodywork...Bodywork. Almost ready for the paint. Gonna go with Red Rock Crystal (PEM) from the 2010 model year.

I had a misfire code on the XJ (and on two of the WJ's that we own) and hunted that gremlin for a while. In desperation I actually replaced the top of engine injector harness and while looking at the old one noticed the loom had partially melted where the harness went around the back of the valve cover. Peeling the loom back exposed several of the injector wires whose insulation had melted and they would occasionally short (throwing the code and causing rough running). Since then, whenever I buy an 99-04 XJ of WJ I always place some loom insulation around the harness at that point (I get it in a 36" piece from JEGS). Addressing the oil consumption, the mileage and prior use of that replacement engine would make me wonder if it could use a quick ring and bearing job - but I would check compression first to see just how bad it may (or may not) be.

The first thought I had was: Why?

Obviously, a valve job can be expensive, especially if you have to get the seats re-ground (I would not recommend trying a do-it-yourself seat re-grinding). if not too bad you can lap the seats with paste and a lapping tool but that is slow tedious work. Exhaust valves are approx. 13.00 each from Rockauto, the intake valves slightly more, but replacing the valves requires at least a decent lapping job. In all cases you should replace the valve guides, (Felpro set is about 14.00). Getting a replacement head is an option, but can be pricey for the upper end models. Getting a replacement used head is a crap shoot, unless you pull the valves and check them.

The Dakota setup does require a wiring change, as the sending unit and the pump have separate harnesses that terminate in one plug that does not match the Comanche's. For fuel cells in the bed check out Alexia's build, but depending on the laws in CT you might have to have a certified cell or some other setup.

I left Ohio in 1974 to move to Louisiana as a young teenager because although I loved living there I did not see any future in the "rust belt". Turns out I was right...but that did not save me. since then I have held approximately 10 different jobs in 40 years, all professional and well-paying. I've held my current profession for the longest (over 16 years)....even though it pays the least. The economy has changed since my generation went to work, employees are considered disposable and jobs are considered temporary until the next one comes along. If you have opportunities in Colorado I would definitely take them because I don't forsee the situation getting better before it gets worse. You can always go back to Ohio to retire....

Made some progress over the weekend. Got the B pillars welded up after removing the old strikes. Hung the doors and the fenders. Obviously need is the mother of invention. As I have been doing this one alone I had to create a jig to hold the doors while aligning them. Little did I know it would work as well as it did! Finally, put the hood and nose on. Next is the sanding down (the truck had almost no body repair needed).

It has already been repaired. The parts car will be the 2000 Cherokee.

Sorry to hear about your daughter. All we drive on is Michelin. As Don said - they cost more initially but are a long-lasting, high mileage tire. I have never had one leave me on the side of the road. OTOH, we use Goodyear on the patrol units. They are prone to belt slippage (which the manufacturer will not warranty unless their approved shops do the scheduled tire rotations on) which makes them usually last on our Crown Vics, Explorers, and Tahoes about 1.5 years and 35-45,000 miles.

I too got the letter for our WJ's. None have a hitch, so the recall is a moot point for us. However, I do want to say my daughter's was hit in the rear several weeks ago by a Volvo at 45-55 MPH and the gas tank did not rupture against the axle. It did develop a leak due to the Volvo riding under the bumper and holing it. While I understand and agree that Ford's decision process with the Pinto was flawed (mostly due to arrogance and monetary factors) as Incommando said, the WJ passed the requirements for the time and it is somewhat unrealistic to expect it to pass more stringent regulation 10 years later. The Crown VIctoria police interceptor is a prime example as well. Initially it was deemed safe but later tests (and larger vehicles) were found to create a problem. Ford crafted a steel plate to deflect the tank down and away from the axle in a violent rear-end collision....which simply caused the tank to burst upon impact with the roadway. Ultimately, until folks stop ramming each other there will always be some type of danger, and some lawyer who will look for a way to make a buck on the liability.

Update: Have cleaned and painted frame rails. Also sprayed inside of frame rails with the Eastwood brand inner frame rail spray. Worked well (as long as you tape over all the holes you are not sticking the wand into). Welded all the seat brackets and kick panel/firewall panels in the cab, set dash in place to get the top brackets welded. Meanwhile, in other news: Daughter got rear-ended at approx. 45 MPH by a Volvo station wagon. She is fine (with a sore neck). WJ did its job - 2,600.00 in damage - rear deck pan was crumpled in the spare tire well and the gas tank was holed (by a piece of protruding metal from the Volvo). Volvo was totaled.

Not really . The purpose of the letter is to install a hitch on certain Wjs especially with aftermarket hitches because iirc the aftermarket hitches may puncture the gas tank in a rear end collision because of how low they sit vs the mopar hitch that is the same height as the bumper . The replacement parts won't be available till September 15th at the earliest . I think if the law firm was collecting info the dealer wouldn't be installing hitches . OK...Sounds good. But: Why would the manufacturer be responsible to replacing aftermarket hitches the owner decided to install? Don't get me wrong - I'm all for free stuff, but how could the manufacturer be responsible?

OK. I do have several WJ's and have not gotten this letter...but: Just from what I have read it appears to be a law firm who is trying to gather information on a class action suit. Am I incorrect?

I have one in tan, if no one else comes up with the red one. somehow I forgot to pitch it with the rest of the stuff I got rid of. If you want to pay the shipping you can have it for free.