54bobby

advance auto has the light up fuses.

how about this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fey-63000/applications/make/jeep

my 2.5 has the same problem. intake is snug but the exhaust mani has both front and rear studs broken off. been like that since before this problem. starts right up with some feathering of throttle when cold and will stall out when pulled into gear unless you ride the brake while giving her ever so lite throttle. very low loping idle till she starts to warm then she purs and runs great with no starting problems. only when cold.

what job where you doing? tilt wheel repair?

4.10 with my 2.5 all stock and an aw4

if you go the fey rout you will need the mount kit too. i just installed one and love it. i pull my 14' boat with a 25 on the back and that's on an old steel trailer with no problems.

don't have the number but pretty sure the columns where made by GM. if that helps.

from rock auto. exhaust manifold hardware kit for 2.5. dorman part# 674002 8 bucks

there is 2 different rear shoe sizes. have you got the correct ones?

maybe top it off with some hi-test and some stay-bil fuel stabilizer.

make sure the nipples on the tb that the vacuum lines are connected to aren't clogged with grime. try taking some close up pics of under the hood and post them. maybe some one can spot something.

sounds like it may be spitting fuel through the injector, kind of like sucking air some where. are all your vacuum lines hooked up properly?

could you have bad gas? a crimped fuel line?

could you throttle body be dirty? will it run using starting fluid?

go through this entire thread. mine melted too. http://comancheclub.com/topic/43177-need-some-help-asap/

on my 87 it conects to the lower manifold side of the throttle body.

she's an 87 2.5. when cold she has a real low idle and will stall (especially in reverse) when cold. as soon as she starts to warm up everything is good and purs like a kitten. i replaced the map with no results. she does have both the front and rear exhaust mani studs broken off but these have been broke since i've had the truck and this problem is recent. what should i be looking at to diagnose this. i might add i suck at diagnosing electrical quirks. again, she runs great once she even starts to get warm.

well at least now you have a plan.

get the crew buss to pull over and meet the guy.

try this site http://www.car-part.com/

if he wants an older one, tell him to buy pre 91 or if a ragtop, 92. they started going down hill with the new styles. the one i just bought is one of the most dependable cars ever made. parts are very reasonable and an entire cult community for support.

bought this little gem. 1987 bmw 325es. now i have 2. 207 on the clock. put a new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all new belts and hoses, a valve cover gasket and fixed the neutral safety switch. 012 by robert_elliott54, on Flickr 010 by robert_elliott54, on Flickr 015 by robert_elliott54, on Flickr

that gtx 20-50 is what i use in my bimmer. great oil.

my 86 bimmer has 410 on it all original. general maintenance and keep the oil clean.

new switch in. what a pita. simple job on a lift but not for a 60 yr old with 50 extra lbs. and no lift. just couldn't get in there with both hands but after a while goter done. everything good now.