54bobby

where are these diagnostic connector located?

yes, that black box is the set up i have. could it cause my issues?

not sure about the I'm bolts but 2 of the 3 exhaust manifold bolts are sheered off since iv'e had her, about 8 years. my son had her on a road trip about 5 years ago and the down pipe let go off the manifold. well him being knowledgless about engines, just drove it nd WHEN it caught fire, it fried the entire vacuum harness and most of the lines. that map sensor tubing is pieced together with a few different sized tubbings but is not leaking. that line goes on the bottom tb fitting correct? and the second fitting is connected to a port on the side of a 1990 something metal valve cover from a wrangler correct?

my 87 2.5 with the AW4 when shifted into reverse stumbles with lower rpm's than in drive to the point that she stalls 95% of the time and the other 5% you have to feather the throttle while holding the brake. i know the egr is bad but has never affected the reverse operation before. i don't know if the other problem i'm having is related or not but she also is very very (near impossible) to start half the time when warm, unless i pull the intake to throttle body hook up from the tb. it looks, smells,and cranks like she's flooding out. if i manually work the throttle plate while not running, she will then start. what is the name of the part that has the little button like plunger in the linkage that (i think) is supposed to allow fuel to remain in the tb for a faster next start. would this part cause either or both of my problems? if not, can someone point me in the right direction? thanks in advance, i can say that cause you knuckle heads have never failed me yet.

herding cats, i'm stealing that one. lol

i've got this for the 2.5 87 renix

getting ready to pull my manifold due to sheered off front and rear bolt heads so i will be interested in the answer here too. i do know that the reason the 2.5 exhaust mani bolt heads sheared was because the original factory torque specs had all 3 at the same. there was a recall i believe that re-torqued the end ones at a lower torque so just a heads up make sure u have the updated specs and not the original.

asking for a friend. he has a 1996 4.0 cherokee and when cold out she has a no start condition. warms up, fires right up and runs great. tried either and the 1st time was no start but tried a second and she fired up and ran great. she does crank strong. this problem is only on cold weather days. wheele her in doors and a while later, bang, starts and purs. ideas??

that would be great, thank you.

guys, with out breaking the bank, whats my best options as far as new t-case linkage goes? mine's old tired, rusty, and hasn't seen 4 low in a while.

my other rides and not to offend some but my true passion.

new Moog hubs and bearings and brakes

if your calipers are working fine now, i would just replace the guide pins with new well lubed ones. .

right out of the box worked A.O.K. no grinding and no interference. one thing i did do was to throw a couple coats of rust preventive on all the inside surfaces for a little longer life

i went through the entire dorman catolog and they don't offer them for anything pre 89.

i have the fey and it's pretty close.

pm'd

is there a part # for the front caliper bracket mounting bolt, the star headed one not the guide pin? everything i come across is for later models and cross referencing says won't fit. the truck is an 87

ok guys, got 2 timkin hub assemblies on ebay from pep boys for 68 each. follow up question what's the part number or size for the caliper bracket bolts? not the guide pins

guys' my mj doesn't get a lot of driving anymore, maybe 50 miles a week or so and doesn't get taken off road. what are some relatively inexpensive but not garbage either options for front hub and bearing replacement? would love timkins but at 100 a pop with being on a budget they're a little steep. she's an 87 2.5 with a dana 30 up front.

mine just blew through the gasket.

well, finally got around to replacing the rear brake line along with eliminating the load leveling valve. got the line in in all one piece feeding from the rear, plugged the front bottom port on the proportioning valve, bled the rears and she's got better brakes than she's had in quite a while. might not stop on a dime but sure will on a nickle. lol flaring the lines took some practice. the line kept pushing through the flaring tool and it's a good tool but used as i borrowed it from a friend. after a couple botched tries, i noticed that the threads weren't what the other sizes were so i ran a tap through it and cleaned them up. that did the trick. good brakes, no leaks.

guys, i'm deleting the load sensing valve and replacing the rusted out hard lines. question is, should i install the new line in one piece or sections? if i do it in one piece, should i feed it through from the front or rear and bend as i go???

still works. right click on the non viewable image, click open in new tab. photobucket opens up with same nonviewable tab. right click that one too and click open in new tab. then open that tab.

ok, old lines are out and i have a coil of new line. which way is easiest to get it back in? front to rear or vice-versa and do i bend as i go or pre bend and wrestle it in? any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.