54bobby

This thread kind of ran wild. I just did this on my 91 Pioneer. Here is what I did (removed rear load sensing valve, replaced MJ distro block with YJ prop valve): (1) Remove the MJ distro block up front and put in a YJ prop valve. You could use a prop valve from a YJ/XJ/ZJ. Or you could do as some here do and plug a port on the MJ distro valve (no proportioning to the rear at all). I am happy to report the YJ valve works perfectly, but I have not ran a load heavier than around 200 lb with it. (2) The YJ/XJ/ZJ prop valves are plugged at the nose, so attach the hard line that ran to the front bottom port of the MJ distro block to the front bottom port of your new prop valve (if you replaced the MJ distro block). Otherwise keep the bottom line plugged into the MJ distro block. (3) Trace the hard line that was connected to the nose of the MJ distro valve to the rear of the truck, cutting it out as you go. The two hard lines cross several times so the only way you'll know you are cutting out the right line is to follow it front to back and cut out 1-2 feet at a time. (4) Remove the rear load sensing valve and T connector. Couple the remaining hard line to the hard line that ran from the T connector to the drop hose. At this point you will have a single hard line running from the bottom port of the prop valve or distro block up front to a coupler, to a shorter hard line to the drop hose. (5) Bleed your brakes and test thoroughly. Once I got full pressure to the rear brakes I blew a hard line on the rear axle, and then a wheel cylinder. I had to replace both hard lines on the axle and both wheel cylinders in order to ensure the integrity of the braking system. Good luck. so i'm going from 2 lines running rearward to just 1 and that's coming from the bottom dist port, not the nose correct?

by ditch the distribution valve do you mean the one by the MC? T the front lines together in the front or in the rear?

so help me out here. i am replacing both rear brake lines at this point cause both are rusted out. i wanna delete the load valve. so i plug the bottom or front port on the proportioning valve? if the line on the nose is lets say A, and the bottom is B, which do i plug and what do i do with the line? eliminate it? the line from the port that doesn't get plugged gets the coupler in the rear and connects to the hard line that connects to the soft hose correct? so what i'm left with is the un plugged line running to the rear and connected to the coupler, that then gets connected to the hard line that connects to the soft line. everything else gets deleted right????? ugh, i have a headache.

thanks guys. i'll post up later on the progress

i'm the op's pop. the line that blew is the one that runs from the small metal block on the drivers side rear axle across the pumpkin and into the passenger rear wheel cylinder. what is the size of this line?

ok guys, my 87 4x4 2.5 long bed sprung a leek in the brake line that runs from the small metal block that is attached to the rear axle on the drivers side and runs across, up and over the pumpkin and into the passenger side wheel cylinder. is this line available as a direct fit part ? if so #???. if not what is the size both length and diameter? posting this for my non mechanically inclined son who's doing the work but i need to get the part. he came home from auto zone with the wrong size.

willl check out all above responses after work. thanks guys. is it possible for the MC to leak into the vacuum booster and go undetected except for fluid lose in MC?

guys, the front reservoir of my 87, 2.5 is loosing brake fluid. down 3/4 yesterday, my son took it out today and maybe did 100 or so miles and when he got back it was down the same again. the front sump controls the rear brakes correct? refilled it, and had my son pump repeatedly as well as press and hold both with truck running and not running. i crawled under with a flashlight and could see absolutely no leeks, drips, or tell tail wet spots on or around any brake lines, as well as the inside of the tires. no leek evidence anywhere except the MC. could it be leaking into the vacuum assist booster? help.

i dug up an old thread from when i put an exhaust system on 4 years ago. 1 guy says it goes between down pipe and mani and another says that the 87 doesn't use that donut packing that it's built in. i'm doing work on her today but don't wanna drop that pipe if i don't have to. can anyone clarify whether the 87 2.5 uses that packing or not?

thanks dude.

guys, where in the exhaust system does felpro part # 60836 go? . it's packing of some sort but at what point in the system does it go? mani to down pipe? down pipe to cat? or cat to muffler or other??? this pt# is from rock auto for an 87 2.5 with 7' bed

thank you, very informative response. that is what i was looking for.

ok cool, but if the line in question is for the TC, where should it connect? i see no place within reach of the line to hook it up to.

i keep getting an error saying i'm not allowed to use that image extension in this community. i'm using flikr.??????????

guys, blower motor is on blowing through defrost. i know this is a vacume thing and i have 1 line in that area (fire wall) that is disconected and i don't see any possible connectors for it. i have not checked the bladder yet and my son recently had the lower dash panel dropped to replace the dimmer switch. could he have inadvertantly disconnected something? starting with this lost connection first. does anyone know where this line runs to? it's the blue line (i added the cap for the pics) that runs through the black conduit. can't get pic to upload???? wtf how do i upload pic? tried bbcode, flikr, copy and paste, nothing works.

I wish! But sadly no. Maybe at some point I'll have the funds and time to search for one but for now I need a solution for a third brake light/cargo light that mounts directly to the truck. I'm not as concerned with the third brake light but if a cop around here sees a light up there he will assume it's a brake light and I will be pulled over when it doesn't come on. I'd rather avoid that headache all together and do a third brake light too. Around here they don't mess around with brake lights being out. funny i,m reading this. my son just a couple weeks ago got pulled over for the third brake light not working. when the cop was informed the truck was older than third brake light laws, he changed the car stop to the hitch ball obstructing the license plate and wrote a citation for that. what a fool.

try this. from my BMW forum R3vLimited. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=395713

just the headlights, why do you ask? would/could it be a different problem?

i'm gonna go with this from ebay unless you guys have a reason i shouldn't??? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-H4-Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-2-Headlamp-Light-Bulb-Socket-Plugs-7X6-/330974040108?fits=Year%3A1987%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3AComanche%7CSubmodel%3ALaredo%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.5L&hash=item4d0f97102c:g:-X0AAOxyTMhR8Fgd&vxp=mtr

UGH, guys my question is the putco web site says this, Fitment Note: Bulb types vary by vehicle. Please verify that your vehicle uses a bulb type of H4 prior to ordering. if my truck is using the H-6052 bulb as per the owners manual will this harnes be plug and play or will i need to buy the H-4 bulbs along with new sockets???? Putco H4 / 9003 Heavy Duty Headlight Upgrade Wiring Harness Product Description Reviews (0) Item H4 / 9003 Heavy Duty Automotive Head Lamp Wiring Relays Kit from eAutoWorks. Works for 9003 / H4 Bulbs. Bulb Type H4 / 9003 Bulbs Only Additional Info For H4 / 9003 Type Light Bulb Use ONLY Features eAutoWorks H4 / 9003 Heavy Duty Headlight Upgrade Wiring Harness with Relay System Kit Brighter headlight Stock & after-market bulbs are brighter because the full battery voltage reaches the bulb.* Allows use of higher wattage bulbs without fear of overload - a fried wiring harness is expensive to replace. A must have to use with additional headlights. There are solid-state "relays" for both the high and low beams. Heavy Duty Headlight Upgrade Wiring Set for H4 / 9003 Features: Designed to endure high temperatures head lamp connector for high wattages bulbs Heavy Gauge Wiring Set Anti corrosive leap plated treatment to prevention ill-contact Easy installation and maintenance Works for H4 / 9003 bulbs Existing headlight modulator. Just connect your existing headlight modulator's input into the kit's output Fitment Note: Bulb types vary by vehicle. Please verify that your vehicle uses a bulb type of H4 prior to ordering. Product Info Write your own Review List Price: $61.58 Your Price: $44.95 (Save 27% off list) Shipping: Standard Shipping Rate StockCode: PUT230004HW Availability: In Stock. Usually ships withing 24-48 hours. Qty:

so the manche has started with the flickering headlamps. having done some reading especially cruisers wright up. i'm gonna do tyhe harness upgrade. however i can t find which one to purchace. the headlight bulb number in the owners manual is H-6052. i see no upgrade for that bulb. will another work as plug and play? 87. 2.5 larado w/ AW4

i've heard of these valves but in the 5 years i've had the truck, it's never been screwed with. would/can they just go bad and lead to my condition?

guys, maybe one of you can point me in the right direction. my son's been driving the manchee (87, 2.5 long bed, front disc rear drums). he said the brake peddle feels soft so i took it for a drive and it is. in a gravel lot, i hitem pretty good and only the fronts locked up in the gravel. seems to me the rears arent working. they're only 2 years old and the truck dosen't get used that much. peddle is real soft and truck dosen't wanna stop. could it just be adjustment? MC is full although the larger compartment looks dirty. not loosing any fluid. could it be a clogged brake line? i'm working 70 hours a week and that's why i'm asking for a starting point. just don't have any time.