54bobby

will it be cheaper to repair the carrier bearing if that's what it is or just source a used diff?

google say maybe carrier bearings. what yas think? i did instal a axle u joint and hub on drivers wheele about 3 months ago and everything was ok. wheel spins w/o any noise and no play in joints.

guys, my 87 2.5 with an AW4 is making a growling sound. sounds like right under drivers feet. speed related and sounds like the diff. fluid is old but full. U joints are good. how can i tell if the diff is bad and also what ratio would this truck have up front? same as the rear? rear is a 4.10. whats my options here? where can i get and how much will one set me back?

ok, i ground the mounting ears down a bit so the hub now fits inside the rotor. next problem is i bought a new iner axle shaft oil slinger, part #8126232. but it doesn't fit deep enough to allow the axle to be inserted far enough to complete assembly. does this part need to be pressed on?

the thing i can't figure out is, i put new rotors on her 2 years ago and they worked with the old hubs. if the axle was changed shouldn't i have had the same fitment problem putting the rotor on that was bought using the trucks statistics?

Update, new problem. The mounting hole ears on the new hub rub the inside of the rotor. Went to autozone for a different one (first was rock auto) and same problem. What is correct part num for 87 Comanche hub assembly? just cross referenced hub numbers and the same num. 513107 is for both the wrangler and Comanche. is this correct?

guys, wtf am i doing wrong? u-joint is in no problem. when i reassemble the axle into the truck, i tighten down the 3 hub bolts, then put the shaft washer and nut on. when i tighten down on the nut, the hub and shaft sieze up and won't spin. i thought it was a bent inner slinger so put it back together w/o it and same problem. also, when i first took the old hub off, while breaking the nut loose the front drive shaft would turn, when i reassemble it it does not. and yes, the shaft is in all the way.

so, 6 months ago i bought a new u joint for the MJ. finally got around to putting it in yesterday and there was no c clips in the box that looked like it was opened when i got it (my bad, should of checked. anyway, i got 3 of the old ones off in 1 piece but the 3rd is fubar'd. can't fine the clips on any of the box store web sites. is there a size i can ask for at hardware stores? or am i gona have to buy a new u joint? really don't wana use any of the old ones.

so if i went with cv shafts what does that involve to convert over? just r and r?

guys, i've had a ticking sound coming from the drivers side front. i was told that it's the axle u-joint. when spinning the wheel you can see and hear that's where it's coming from. question is, what is the part # and best place to buy/ also is it a job that a shade tree mech can do in the yard w/o specialty tools?

was there 2 different belt designs on these trucks? i seem to remember reading some where about v-belts and serpentine belts.

190k on mine and she still purrs

not sure if there the same but there's quite a few mt2500 scan tools on ebay.

i once knew a girl that could suck the chrome off a bumper but not a turn sig. switch.

yes only the o2 was high. all other levels passed.

will an exhaust leak just before the cat produce an elevated o2 reading from the tail pipe? my 2.5 failed emissions on o2 but is tuned up and running well.

aw4 or go home. lol. but seriously, 3 of us drive the manche and 3 people on the same manual always spells trouble. my 86 bmw is a 5 speed and i love her.

crank position sensor

are you getting spark when the problem rears its ugly head?

agreed, brakes are cheap. cheap enough to do new drums too.

^this

before deciding on the fey, i went through one of the salvage yard search web sites. they found me one but it was 500 bucks. i passed and went fey.

does it run smooth once warm?

got billies on both my bimmers and love them. 250k+ shocks

could it be a bad tire?