54bobby

well, it certainly does flow more gas into the engine. lol imho one or more of the sensors that are related to the ecu determining fuel to air mixture are nfg. the truck with all her faults starts right up on the coldest of days but once warmed up tp operating temp, the ecu is still receiving cold engine info hence the gas shooting up through that orafice and flooding her out. just a shade tree guy here but from what i can gather, it's the O2 sensor, the MAP, only 2 years old but going to test to be sure, the CTS, TPS, and the MAT

No, not yet but since my sone used it for a 300 mile road trip and on said trip exhaust became unattached from down pipe, the ensuing fire fried the vac. Harness, and electrical connections in surrounding neighborhood. It's still in the truck but while throwing a new O2 sensor in her along with a CPS I wanted to get a jump on what and where I could get 1 if needed. While I have ur attention I included a pic of the hole inside the TB that gas shoots up out of on warm start ups. She's flooding out.

Have been researching for a MAT sensor and what iv'e found was Tomco 12134, GM. 25036751, and a combination of WELLS su343 and su113 for my 87 2.5. can someone post an absolute will work first time rout i can take?

not to threadjack but i will. on the lower photo, what is the very small hole on the inside of the carb throat for? my 87 2.5 has been, what seems to be flooding out when trying to be restarted after it's warm and fuel squirts up out of this whole.

Happy Holidays Guys, My son just bought a 96 cherokee sport 4.0 automatic 4x4. the truck needs front end work. From a quick visual she needs tie rod ends, sway bar links ball joints or the suspension parts with ball joints already installed, steering stabilizer and shocks, probably a trac bar too. is there a fairly decent budget priced kit available or a vender that sells something that's not junk and won't brake his bank?

The cable is unattached from the trans linkage nipple. The hayes manual says release the locking clamp , attach the cable then depress the clamp to lock in place. Question is,where is that locking clamp? And is it accessible from beneath or above in the console.

I'm hoping that is the case. What would be my worse case scenario?

so, my daughter went to go to work and the truck started fine. she pulls the floor shifter into gear and the lever travels through all the gears but won't engage any of them. the shifter seams like it is not engaging any of the notches. i don't have to hold the button on the side in and she still travels through all gears. this was an all of a sudden thing with zero prior symptoms. i'm working 16 hour shifts so if someone can give me a jump start on what i'm looking for it will save me a couple hours sleep on diagnosing the problem. thanks in advance.

sorry to thread jack but, i recently backed my boat trailer lights under salt water while launching. after i pulled out, the right rear trailer light was full of water. about a half mile or so up the road, headlights started doing the on then off thing with no set pattern to it. haven't gotten around to it yet but could salt water into the trailer short out the lamps and cause this intermittent problem?

Yes with or with out trailer. Started when I had to back trailer till lights were under water due to fill moon and off shore storm to get boat off. Now pass. side trailer tail does not work but turns, brake, and 4 ways still do.

In my 87 2.5 renix, where would i find the relay and if separate, the circuit breaker? under the hood or is it integrated into the on/off headlight switch on the dash, or fuse box? can it be tested and found to be either ok or not even if the condition isn't rearing it's ugly head at the time? like i said, it's intermittent but i never know when it will happen. they always come back on if i shut her down for a couple minutes and always come on on cold start ups. On a positive note, the truck ran flawlessly on my 300 mile round trip crabbing excursion from south jersey to maryland overloaded with gear and towing a boat and motor on a early 70's heavy trailer.

So, I pulled the boat out of the salt water on the trailer (truck only got her wheels wet) and when leaving the ramp, headlights keep going off and on. Not hitting a bump related. Random but every few minutes though. Truck does have the 3 tilt wheel bolts backing out so plenty of slop there. Other that mechanical problem like turn signal switch or head light switch, is there anything else known to give this condition?

is the cad really as easy as tacking off the cover plate, sliding the fork over then putting the plate back on upside down and plugging the lines?

found where all the tail lights are going, gates too.

I'm on it, thank you.

still have dip stick ground to do along with drivers tail light which i have discovered that the housing screws are toast. looks like they were seized in and someone tried unsuccessfully to drill them out. now all the heads are shot from failed drilling. as for the intake fasteners, as many of the 2.5's have experienced, the front and rear exhaust mani. bolts are sheared off. i'm guessing from the factory using the wrong torque value. i understand there was a change to reflect a different torque for the center bolt. yet another thing to do. all good though, just put it on the list with the 86 bmw, and the 4 mid 60's evinrudes. lol

yes, but stil have an eratic looping idle.. on to the tps now.

SHE LIVES, tested the CPS and nadda, removed it and cleaned it up real good as well as the mounting area. used contact cleaner on the conectors as well as doint the same to the coil and all sorounding terminals. cranked her over and BINGO. thanks fellas. back on the track and only dropped a lap or two. by the way, just rolled over on 239k

cap is clean and uncracked, rotor is clean, seated and turns when cranked. with the intake off of the tb and cranked, fuel spits up out of a little hole on the side of the tb throat. is this the normal entry for gasoline to enter the tb? will pull plugs next. if wet, what does that tell you/me? for completing your tips, under hood grounds are done. that's about it. i know, she'll never be right till i get them done but at 65 and still working 75 hours a week, weel, nuff said. that is some great stuff there though and the mj community is so lucky to have you and i'm gonna go out on a limb here and say you are the soul reason that many many mj's are still on the road. thank you.

it probably could have been refreshed but for the piece of mind and lack of time, lol, i just grabbed a new one.. i thought that it and the tps were all in bed together with the ecu in regards to fuel/air mixture. truck has a very erratic loping idle so from what i researched, that stepper along with a tps adjustment was in order. it's all on hold till i get in there and find my sparks. where oh where have they gone? hitchin up my boot straps now to go and find them little buggers. lol

is the longer bolt on the new iac going to work on the truck the same as the shorter one on the old valve did? the bolt on the newer motor can not be adjusted to the shorter length of the old unit.

i'm on on the right track then as all tests mentioned above are on tomorrows docket as it was raining pretty good here this evening. gonna start at the rotor and work back. another question if i may, the idle control motor i removed had a small bolt screwed into the shaft that moves in and out against the linkage plate. the new one i put in has a bolt that's considerably longer and looks to be closer with out it. this is the style i'm talking about.

So, my 87 2.5 tbi was idling like crap so i did a little lookin and found the iac valve was caput. got a new one installed it cranked her over and no spark. fuel flowing into tb looks good. tested plug wire with open air in line tester along with coil wire, NADDA.i did drain battery by touching the neg cable to the pos. could this have fried something. things that spark are not my strong suit. please help.

thank you