mvusse

AX4 and AX5 are identical on the outside. The AX4 is just missing the shift rail and gears for fifth gear. With the needed parts, an AX4 can actually be converted to an AX5 quite easily. You also don't necessarily need an AX5. You need a 4wd AX4 or AX5. To make sure the transfer case you're getting will bolt up to it (there are a number of different input shafts for different transmissions) you should try to get a transmission and transfer case together out of the same vehicle. Yes you will need a new rear driveshaft. The added length from the transfer case means your 2wd shaft is too long. Rather than trying to find a 4wd 4 cylinder Comanche in a junk yard, as they are difficult to find, the better way to go is to take your 2wd shaft to a drivetrain shop and have them have it shortened and rebalanced for you. You will also need a front driveshaft. This driveshaft will not be the same length as one off a 6 cylinder, which is the majority out there. So if you get a transmission and transfer case out of a Cherokee, you might as well get the front driveshaft from that same Cherokee as well.

Thought I was losing my mind here, as I've had the transmission off my 2.5 a number of times now, and have never had to take the starter off. Glad we at least have that all cleared up.

These are the rims, but in silver, that are on my CAMPER.... Actually, in black they don't look that bad.

I have a screw driver in my tool box that I ground the blade off. Has not let me down yet, 7 carriers and counting. Maybe someone worked on yours before and was afraid it could come out so they coated it in epoxy?

Mid 90s Dakota brake hose works for the rear axle. TJ Wrangler (97-06) works also.

Here in Ohio it was pretty nice last weekend with a high of 67 on Sunday. But right now my truck is coated in white again. Spring starts one week from today.

In short, yes. Even with the longer stock links (1992 and newer?) 4.5 is too long causing them to bend.

The shocks will probably stop the rear. Have some shack mounts welded low on the axle tube (actually, swap in a real axle first, before that D35 blows up) and run longer shocks. Make sure your brake line is long enough, get a longer one if needed. In the front , disconnect the sway bar links, check the brake hoses and see from where to where the shocks can travel. Long arm suspension could flex more than short arm, but short arm can flex as well. This is with 6.25 in front, SOA rear, short arms. Limited by the shocks: To get an idea of high that tire is off the ground, the tires measure 35"

That is why anaerobic sealant on the tabs of the RMS. As for the thermostat, mine doesn't have a ball bearing either. Just a little hole in the outer ring. Can't remember if the hole is supposed to be on top or bottom, but I want to say top.

Ultra black is an RTV. I usually use the red or blue stuff. Thermostat should come with a gasket in which case RTV is not needed. No RTV on single piece oil pan gasket, anaerobic sealant for the rear main seal.

This. If the bleed screw is on the bottom you will never get the air out.

5/16 12 point should be readily available, although it is more likely it is a metric 8mm which is about identical in size. I have a few of them.<br /><br />IIRC stock should be 7mm (or was it 9) Allen on older ones (pre 90?) and 10mm hex head on newer ones.

The sulphur in the GL5 will eat the brass. The longer it is in there, the worse it gets. As for how fast it happens, I have no idea.

Can't remember any more, I did this almost a year ago. But I know I didn't use a press because I don't have one. And I did have the shafts apart all the way down to 1st gear and reverse.

I don't have and didn't use a hydraulic press. Did use a gear puller, though.

The AX5 is really not all that complicated. Just take your time. It can be done in a few hours (after it's been taken out of the vehicle), but taking your time and counting for unforeseen circumstances assume one day to take it apart, one day to put it together and one day for getting things you didn't think of. As for oil, GL5 will eat up the brass syncros. Even GL4 is not great for brass. Either find a GL3 gear oil, or use 10W30 synthetic motor oil.

I combined a partly good AX4 with a partly good AX5 to make one mostly good AX5. They are not overly complex transmissions. Make sure you have a manual that covers the transmission rebuild, good set of tools and a lot of clean workspace to keep stuff organized to help you get everything back together in the correct order. I used a 4x8 worktable with a melamine covered fiberboard top. Two main problems I had: Snap rings. Lots of snap rings. And not ones with the eyelets that would have made removal easier. Older style AX5 use a crimped nut to hold 5th gear on the shaft. That nut is a royal PIA, worse than the snap rings. 94 or so and newer are a lot easier to work with.

If you stay spring under, I would get cheap stock style perches. Mopar performance, Jegs, Summit racing.... If going SOA, I would get perches from Ruff Stuff Specialties.They are 7 or 8" long to help combat axle wrap.

Use Mobil 1 High Mileage for the next few oil changes. API SL, so it still has zinc in it, full synthetic which cleans sludge out better than dino lubes. Heard good things about seafoam, but no personal experience with the stuff. Quaker State Defy is a synthetic blend and is also SL. Most 4 cycle motorcycle oils are API SJ, but don't usually come any lighter than 10W40. Something about running oil with an additive package designed for a diesel engine in a gasoline engine doesn't sound right to me.

I just got a 40# tank for my fork lift filled today for $32.

I got the 11771 a couple times, but not anymore since learning the 11800 is better.

NOS 11800 is better. 11771 is a single lip seal, 11800 is a double lip. And it is cheaper as well. They are a tight fit and I have never had one leak between the seal and the axle tube.

Yep. Triple that number at the very minimum.

Yes, as long as you stay in 2wd, it doesn't matter what gears you have in the front axle. For the vacuum lines, find the feed line to the transfer case and plug it (in the engine bay) with a golf tee. The rest can be left as they are, or if you really want you can remove them. As far as the new axle possibly having been set up for ABS does not affect anything. You just don't have anywhere to plug the ABS wire into. Again, if you want you can remove the sensor altogether. Tone ring on the axle shaft will not cause any issues.

I'm with Darren, with stock suspension, remove the front axle. I did mine a month or two ago with the axle in place, but my truck has a bit of lift. Use anaerobic RTV.