mvusse

I know both the AX4 and AX5 use the same input shaft since they are basically the same transmission. The AX4 is just missing the gears and shift rail for 5th gear. Don't know what an automatic transmission behind a 4 cylinder got, but those are few and far between.

The true trac replaces the spider gears, but also the entire differential carrier. The only things reused are the pinion and ring gears. But since the carrier gets replaced, the gears need to be setup again, so you need a new master install kit. Since setting up used gears is a pain in the a$$, most shops will not do it. So add another $200 for gears plus shop labor and you're looking at over $1000. Cheaper to find another D44.

All 231s behind the AX4 or Ax5 (4 cylinder manual transmissions) were 21 spline regardles of year. But worse, both for 21 spline and 23 spline there are three different length input shafts. Not only do you need to correct spline count for your transmission, you also need to correct length. Right around 94 they changed a few things inside the case. One difference is that it will have a true neutral, whereas the older ones in neutral lock the front and rear output shafts together. Another difference is the cur of the gears. Because of that input shafts can be swapped between older ones, or they can be swapped between newer ones. But an older input shafts will not work in a newer case, nor will a newer input shaft work in an older case.

And I have a long bed cap sitting in my back yard.

Where are you at, and what size bed do you have?

The ABS axles have a tone ring on them, and the knuckle will have a sensor with two wires. All ABS shafts have the larger u joints, some non-abs shafts have them. Bring a tape measure with you. 1-1/16" cap is the small joint, 1-3/16" cap is the stronger one.

None of mine, including Booger, which I don't have anymore, or the parts truck most of which went to the scrap yard had a build sheet anywhere. That totals 2 MJs and 3 XJs ranging from 1987 through 1996.

The way I see it, when they get to the point that the tube is stuck to the nut, it is time to snip them with bolt cutters, put a socket on the nut to take it off and use new lines when putting it back together.

At 2" longer you would need 7" to 8" of lift for the front wheels to be centered in the fender at ride height. Even then, when the suspension travels up, they will move the axle forward pushing the tires into the front of the fenders. And besides, that much lift is well beyond what should be done without a long arm conversion. So even though they *could* technically be used with some unsafe non-performing hilbilly rednecked setup, IMO, for real world application, they will be useless for any MJ or XJ.

If a tow strap comes loose or breaks, it may take out a plastic grill or give you a serious welt. If a chain comes loose or breaks, it will go through the grill and through the radiator, if you're lucky. If not it will go through the windshield and kill the driver. If you happen to be in the way, you're going to lose body parts.

I can see holes in the rotted bed side in the out of focus photo in the ad. Description: Truck has some surface rust. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :doh:

From all the different designs, there are only two stock sizes: 15x7 and 15x6. I use 15x7. Now not all 235/75R15 tires measure exactly the same. I have multiple sets, and as I noted before, some rub, some do not. And the ones that do will quit doing it when they get worn down a bit from use.

Gabriel does have adjustable air shocks that can handle up to 1000 extra pounds, though. But they require some plumbing and an air compressor.

I have multiple sets of 235/75R15 tires. Some rub (but just barely) on the driver side control arm, some do not. I have also ran 225/75R15, which is the largest size offered from the factory, without any rubbing whatsoever. WJ Grand Cherokee (1999-2004) lower control arms will cure the rubbing issue with 235/75R15 tires and probably a bit larger than that. However, if you have a front skid plate, much larger than that and they will be rubbing on it.

On my 87 the brake booster vacuum feed has its own dedicated port on the intake manifold.

Listening to car talk this morning, one of the caller had a 1986 Comanche. Is he a member here?

Sounds like you have a small leak in your clutch system.

Never witnessed it myself, but supposedly early 86 Comanches and Cherokees have a different firewall near the top middle.

As far s the gearing, 4.10 gears with an AX5 in 5th gear is pretty much the exact same final drive ratio as 3.55 in 4th gear which is what you have now. If you want to run 32" or 33" tires on a 4 cylinder with 4.10 gears, forgot about using 5th gear unless you're going downhill. Assuming your stock tires are 205/75R15, 31" with 4.10 gears will put you back where you are now. 4.56 will overshoot, but that makes up for getting the increased mass of the tires moving and might even make 5th gear useful. Also, even on stock tires, you will be pushing it making 32" tires fit in the front with 3" lift without cutting. On aftermarket wheels, or running 33" tires, forget it. 33x10.50 does look good and works well with SOA in the rear and 6.5" up front, but 6.5" up front is expensive. I would do the 3" lift saying SUA and run 31" tires. For running 32" tires I would use 4.5" front and SOA rear using a bastard pack with the Comanche main leaf and probably the entire rest of a Cherokee pack.

Windshield is not required in most states, but you will have to wear a full face helmet, goggles, or safety glasses.

If you have to rinse or wash the dishes before putting it in the dishwasher, IMO the dishwasher is worthless. I need to figure out the brand we had in my last house. Even three day old caked on spaghetti sauce or oatmeal bowls came out sparkling clean.

For most people, to match SOA in the back you need ~6.5" out front. This needs: - (adjustable) track bar - (adjustable) upper control arms - (adjustable) lower control arms - longer brake hose - springs - shocks - longer (quick disconnect) sway bar end links I have heard good things about Rubicon Express and have personal good experiences with Rock Krawler. Also have personal experience with Teraflex, but it's not so good. According to people who have used Rusty's and Rocky Road Outfitters, stay away from them. Also know people who have used Rough Country components who originally lauded them, but changed their mind later and swapped out their components for another brand. Don't know specifically what the issues were, though.

The flex plate you got with the tranny might be from an 84-85 Cherokee. The 2.5 in those years was carbureted and so did not have a CPS.

Huh?

Gear oil is for ... gears. Transmissions have gears. Most common gear oil is GL5. GL5 gear oil will eat the brass synchros.