mvusse

Fluid for the AX5, which is the transmission would be 10W30 synthetic motor oil, fill until it comes out of the fill hole. For the clutch it would be DOT 3 brake fluid, there should be a full line on the reservoir. Neither should go down to where it is running low unless you have a leak somewhere. A hydraulic leak in the clutch system can be very problematic, just like a leaking brake hose, because you can't build pressure. If it is the master cylinder leaking, fix it fast before the fluid dissolves your fuse block under the dashboard.

18 gallon was in the short wheelbase Comanches. Long wheelbase had 23.5 gallon tanks, although a 16 gallon was also available. Have never seen a 16 gallon one, though. I would imagine that they would have started with a lwb truck. Maybe the vin can tell you?

It should clear, with minor rubbing on the lower control arms during full lock steering.

I have the manual for one of my 87s floating around here somewhere, but I do not believe it mentions the presence or absence of a neutral safety switch anywhere.

The big test will be after you put it back under the truck, when you will find out for sure if it works or not.... :thumbsup:

State inspectors obviously don't know jack and have never dealt with a stick shift before.

Where is this extra relay located?

I do not believe low pinion vs high pinion make any real difference in length. Transmission length does, though. I believe you have an AW4 which should be right around 25-3/8". ZJs use either the 42re, 44re or 46re depending on engine (4.0, 5.2, 5.9) all of which measure 27-1/2" or bit over 2" longer. I would get one off an older XJ.

My bad. I was thinking clutch switch. No NSS on manual transmissions at all that I'm aware of.

I don't know if it was this thread or another one where I said this before, but: Manual transmission Jeeps did not get a neutral safety switch until 1997. Edit: Swiss cheese memory strikes again. I meant clutch switch. AFAIK no manual transmission on a Jeep ever had a NSS.

Two word for you: spring mount

Never mind. Brain not working when I posted. Please delete this message.

The one person I saw trying to power out of a sway flipped the trailer and skidded to a stop blocking all three lanes about 3 seconds after hitting the accelerator. He was driving the K30 I usually drove, I was following in a shorty school bus towing a 48' 3 axle trailer. Rest of the convoy was a K20 also towing a trailer, two vans and a speed limited 72 passenger bus probably about 10 miles behind. I have had some minor trailer sway on occasion, and just coast down until it stops. Little pop up behind the Suburban I had no clue it was swaying until the truck behind me told me to watch my trailer over the CB. The one close call I had almost happened too fast to save it. Trailer swung left, pulling my @$$ end with it, then swung hard right before I could even react, then left again and onto two wheels with the other two coming a foot off the ground. The weight of the trailer was throwing my 9000 pound van left and right taking up both lanes. I decided the slower I would be travelling when I flipped the better and slammed on the brakes. Luckily this was late at night and hardly any traffic. Somehow the van stayed upright, the trailer stayed upright, my truck stayed attached to it and after one more swing it quit swaying, last 5 miles to get home was 40mph on the interstate. Next day I replaced two trailer tires and rebuild the hubs just in case.

No, because it will just spin the spiders gears and the disconnected shaft instead of the driveshaft.

Unless you want your left leg to grow twice as big around as your right, I suggest against the heavy duty clutch.

If the speedo bounces at low speeds it means there's too sharp a bend or a king in the cable causing it to not spin freely enough and act like a spring.

Hanging in the air, the tires may not spin at the same speed, or one may spin while the other does not. Better way is to lift one tire of the ground, spin it twice the whole way around and count how many turns the driveshaft makes: just over three - 3.07 about three and a half - 3.55 just over 4 - 4.10 But on a front axle that only works with the vacuum disconnect connected: With the engine running, shift the transfer case into 4wd and wait for the 4wd light to come on. Then turn off the engine, play with the heater controls (move it to different positions) to bleed off left over vacuum, and shift the transfer case back into 2wd. If a 92 does not have a vacuum disconnect front axle, disregard the last paragraph.

But the temp sensor sometimes does want to break off in the head when you try to unscrew it.

Yes, as long as that 242 came from behind the same transmission. Transfer cases have different input shafts depending on what transmission they came behind, possibilities are 21 spline and 23 spline, and three different lengths for both of those. If the 242 is from before 1994, you *might* be able to swap the 231 input shafts into it, but I have never verified this. You will also need the shift gate and long linkage rod from the 242.

Not needed. The tow dolly itself will have lights. In my opinion it can be done. Also in my opinion it is not safe. The MJ weighs more than the XJ, add in the weight of the dolly and you have way over double the weight your brakes are rated for. If you had a brake controller and electric brakes on the dolly it would be better, but the fact still remains that you will have more weight behind you than you do on your own wheels. Even though it will most likely be beyond the rated limit of the XJ, the safest way would be on a trailer, with trailer brakes and a weight distributing hitch. If it were 30 miles or less I would say do it, take it slow, stay off busy highways. 250 miles is too far with what I consider an unsafe setup. Either borrow a full size truck or van to tow it behind, or rent a u haul truck to tow it home behind, either on a dolly or a trailer. As far as losing fluid from the transfer case with the drive shaft removed, it's not an issue. You may lose a bit of liquid (fraction of an ounce) when you first remove the shaft, but all the fluid will be in the bottom of the case, not anywhere close to the rear output. The transfer case has an oil pump run off the rear output that circulates the fluid when the vehicle is moving. Without the rear driveshaft the pump won't run, the fluid will stay in the bottom of the case.

I did my own, and yes, I did just drop the oil pan to do it. But I'm lifted 6.25" in the front.

And yet, my oil leak WAS the RMS. Finally fixed this a couple months ago after living with it for two years.

For heavy duty steering linkage, look for a V8 ZJ Grand Cherokee (93 through 98). Direct swap into an MJ/XJ. You can get it all new from a parts store too, but that is $$$.

In my old age I'm also starting to like power windows and locks. That why I swapped them into the PPE. Heck even my "hardly looks like an MJ anymore" trail pig has a power window on the driver side.