mvusse

I am (still) in the process of fitting a Ford front axle under my truck, but it's a solid axle Dana 60, not a twin traction beam Dana 35.

How do you have a 231 in an 86? Did you swap it in? Anyway, sounds like it is just barely engaged when in 4 high. Maybe the linkage needs adjusted.

Your sig says ax15, I'm guessing that's a typo? Anyway, the 2.5 and 2.8 have the same bellhousing, so the transmission will bolt to your engine just fine. Since the transfer case is already bolted to the transmission we know it will work also. I don't know what gears a 2.8 with the 5 speed got, so I don't know if the gears in the front axle will match your current rear axle. Physically the front axle will bolt in just fine, but if the gears are a different ratio you will have to swap the rear axle as well. Front driveshaft will fit, but I'm not a fan of the early style front drive shafts. Rear driveshaft will fit if your 88 is a long bed. If it is a short bed you will need to have either your 2wd driveshaft, or the donor driveshaft shortened to fit. Don't know much about the 207 transfer case, so I can't say how good it is. There must be a reason Jeep moved away from it and started using the 231 in 1987. You will also need all the little parts: shifter, shifter linkage, vacuum harness on the transfer case, vacuum switch for thee 4wd light, vacuum hoses and a bulb for the 4wd light in your instrument cluster. Your transmission tunnel should have a cover bolted on it where the shifter mounts. Further down the side of the tunned under the carpet should be 4 rubber plugs (at least, my 1996 Cherokee had the plugs and predrilled holes) where the bracket for the shifter linkage bolts on. The bracket for the passenger side is bolted to the transmission itself.

Looks pretty much perfect.

I've had my first MJ for more than 5 years now, and it's 27 years old. Even with monthly abuse off road about monthly, redlining the engine often, and overheating on a number of occasions before I added an auxiliary fan, it never had any internal engine problems. All I have replaced due to breakage are radiator, starter and alternator. Also valve cover gasket and rear main seal to solve oil leaks. Oh, and the idler pulley bearing. My other 27 years old Comanche that I drive daily has had the idler pulley bearing replaced, and the water pump bearing has been making a bit of noise for the past year.

disregard.

Reminds me of an 80s VW Jetta diesel I was interested in a few years ago. As soon as I saw the ad I called them (8:30 in the evening), explained I had the money in cash, could I come over to look at it. Was told it was too late, could I come 9:00 am instead. I asked if 8:00 am would work as that worked better for me and was told no earlier than 9. I was the first person to call about it. So I get there at 8:45, only to find out they had sold it to someone else an hour earlier and already gave him the title.

You mean transfercase? Doh! :dunce: Yes,I mean transfer case. Fixed in original post.

Bad seal or dirt on a seal in the master cylinder. Replace the master and you should be good.

No transfer case will bolt up to your 2wd transmission. You need a 4wd transmission. As said before, best way to do it is to get a 90 or older 4wd AW4 with the transfer case already attached to it. That way you will know it fits.

2000 might possibly have the spiral input shaft. Remember hearing something about that somewhere, but can't remember where. Might even have just been a bunch of bull pucky. Early year AW4 needed a 21 spline output, then they switched to 23 spline somewhere around 89 or 90, I think. Again, can't quite remember. 91 and newer transmissions, even with the correct TCU for the year, will not work with 90 and older electronics without wiring modifications. So for that transfer case you will need a 90 or older AW4, but with a 23 spline output. Again, I don't know what year they went to 23 spline, so it may not exist. Best bet I think is to get a 87-89 AW4 with a transfer case already attached.

Everything from the cab forward is the same, but you will have to swap everything over, including radiator support and motor mounts out of your old truck. The rear of the frame is different, with 7" less between the axles and 5" less behind the rear axle. The only parts that won't fit are rear driveshaft (will need to be shortened 6 or 7"), gas tank and bed.

The only vehicles using a Dana 35 front axle are the Ford Explorer (and the identical Mazda Navajo), some Ford Rangers and one year only Ford Bronco II. These are all the weird twin traction beam, not quite independent front suspension axles. Incidentally, these are also the same vehicles with an 8.8" rear axle. All our Jeeps use a Dana 30 front axle. The rear axle should have been a Dana 35, Dana 44 (optional on 87 through 89 only) or an AMC 20 (optional on 86 Metric Tonne package only). If you have a Chrysler 8.25" back there somebody must have swapped it in at some time in the past.

If there is a short to ground, you will be lowing fuses. It is more likely the ground wire that powers those three bulbs is bad.

There is a ground by the driver side tail light that covers, among other thing, the fuel pump/sender assembly. If this ground is faulty the fuel gauge will be pegged at way above full no matter what the actual level in the tank is.

Okay, I was mistaken. Took a look under my dash as I was working there anyway (brake upgrades underway). The connector with the 4 tabs is for the headlight sentinel module. If this module (little silver can) is plugged in and you have the correct chime module, it will leave the headlight on for about a minute if you turn the ignition off first, then the headlights. The little plastic one is for the cruise control cut-off when the brake is depressed. On mine (which does not have cruise), the switch for it is at the very top of the brake pedal. Don't know if all models without cruise have this switch or if mine is an oddball.

Fog light switch (4 tabs) and indicator light for it (double wire). Or cargo light. Or rear window defrost (XJ only) Or rear wiper (XJ only) The connector with 4 tabs should have a label stuck to the the wires a few more inches back.

Track bar angle to pitman arm drop has nothing to do with death wobble. It does have everything to do with bump steer, though.

The only 2wd transmission I have here is an AW4. It, supposedly the original 2wd AX4 that came out of my truck, and every 231J/242J transfer case I have worked on (6 so far) used the same slip yoke. Chevy uses the same size and spline count but is longer, YJ is same diameter and spline count but 1/2" longer, although not splined the whole way. But the YJ ones are machined to allow steeper driveshaft angles. The only difference I have noted is around ~1994 they went to an externally lubricated slip yoke with a grease boot. Earlier ones were internally lubricated by the transfer case. I have also installed a SYE on 2 of my three Jeeps, so I have a few yokes laying around (both XJ/MJ and YJ) if somebody needs one.

Yes, you can keep your current clutch. Most people think you should replace it as a matter of fact when the transmission is out because it happens to be right there, and dropping the transmission just to do a clutch at some point in the future is a lot of work. Since your clutch is relatively new, I would keep it. Actually, do take it out and inspect the flywheel and clutch plates. If there is blue, the clutch plate should be replaced and the flywheel resurfaced regardless. You will want to retain your mechanical speedometer. The sender out of your 2wd transmission will fit in the transfer case. MAKE SURE YOU NOTE THE ORIENTATION SO THE GEAR WILL MESH CORRECTLY WITH THE OUTPUT SHAFT! You will need a longer speedometer cable that will hook up to your gauge cluster. This will have to come off a 84-87 4wd Cherokee or Comanche. 88-90 are also mechanical, and will fit your speedometer, but will not lock to it, meaning it can slide out if you hit the brakes too hard or snag it on something off road. Your current rear driveshaft will need to be shortened. Wait until you have the transfer case (and rear axle if you're replacing it as well) in to measure the needed length, then take it to a reputable drivetrain shop to have it done. They should be able to check it for true, shorten it and balance it for probably ~$100. Some charge more, some charge less. Front driveshaft can come from a 4 cylinder stick shift 4wd Cherokee. Try to get one from 87 or newer (right through 2001) so it will have a simple double cardan joint on top and not the funky CV joint. One from an automatic transmission or 6 cylinder will be the wrong length. As noted, you will need the shifter, rods and other linkage parts. This might include the bracket bolted to the firewall. The bolts are accessible inside the cab underneath the carpet. I don't know if the 4 cylinder uses this or not as my 4 cylinder uses a YJ shifter. Don't go the route the PO of my truck used as the shifter will be to far forward to fit the center console and you will have to hack up the transmission tunnel badly to make it fit. If you do need that bracket, be aware most are badly rusted, so try to look for a newer Cherokee to get it off. Electrolysis rust removal and a coat of paint on it will help keep it from rusting again/more under your truck. If you are keeping your current rear axle, and you have a 4 speed transmission, you will need a 3.55 ratio front axle. This is the most common ratio out there. These will be in early 4 cylinder/4 speed or any 4.0/automatic Cherokees. Try to get one from a 91 through 99 Comanche or Cherokee, so you will not have the vacuum disconnect and it will be high pinion. Don't get one from a TJ Wrangler or ZJ Grand Cherokee as they are low pinion. Get shafts out of a 95(?) or newer to get the stronger u joints. Most pull-it-yourself type salvage yards will allow you to swap parts in the yard before paying for it. Otherwise get the whole thing from a 95 through 99 Cherokee. If you have a 5 speed your current rear axle should have 4.10 gears and you will need a 4.10 front axle to match it. These were behind 4 cylinder/5 speed only and are much harder to find.

Umm, no. All 2wd Jeep transmissions have the same output spline count as all Jeep 4wd transfer cases. At least between MJ, XJ, YJ, TJ and ZJ.

I would start by replacing the filter and putting a new sock on the pump. If that doesn't solve it get a fuel pressure tester and see what the pressure is at idle and at WOT, because the most likely next candidate is the pump.

Difficult to do on a unibody as the roof is structural. The cage would be mandatory to take over structural loads.

I have run 33x12.50R15 tires with ~6.5" lift on 15x8 wheels with 4" backspacing. That combination seems to work well.

I've been thinking about this, and i don't see much difference between an xj and a zj...and they came factory with 318's and 360s? Wheres the huge design difference that lets the zj keep a 5.9 cool? I believe a ZJ radiator is much taller than an MJ/XJ engine compartment allows, but never looked that closely at them. Even so, they had to install hood scoops to loose hot air on the 360 equipped models.