mvusse

Detonation in a Renix? Isn't that's what the knock sensor is for?

Please delete. Replied before reading past the first few words...

Yes a 2.8V6 from a GM vehicle will fit (It may have to be a rear wheel drive one, though, not sure on that.). 3.1 and 3.4 will also work since they use the same block. Buick 3800 will bolt up to the transmission, but don't know about the motor mounts. The 3800 will also eat that manual transmission for breakfast, so may not be the best choice. A number of people have swapped in a 3.1 using the 2.8 carburetor set up. A 3.4 will kind of work with the 2.8 carburetor but needs something larger at high rpms.

Jim, my daughter drives the Cherokee. Because of her being a girl, colors have to be coordinated. I could not find metallic hunter green duct tape anywhere, and painting the rest of the car duct tape gray would take more time than I was willing to spend on it.

It's a cheap light duty Harbor Freight transmission jack. Got it with a coupon for $40 or so.

Correct.

Clutch switch didn't come to Jeeps until 1997. Neutral safety switch only on automatic transmissions. Since when does a vehicle need stuff that wasn't available at time of manufacture to pass an inspection? Next they won't be passing 1986 Jeeps because they don't have air bags...

If you can move the tires up and down without the axle tube moving, your bearings are shot.

And what was wrong with the stock Dana carrier?

Clutch pedal position switch was never in a Comanche, and didn't appear in the Cherokee until 1997.

If you don't know about, or have tools to go to the junk yard, when you break an axle shaft (like from neglected u joints), the CV shafts are the only ones available at most part stores.

Clutch switch? On an 88 Jeep?

If you're skinny enough to get your arm inside it you can wipe it out with a towel. If the tank is rusted on the inside it's time to buy a new tank.

Check the starter relay and it's connections. It is right next to the battery and acts as a power distribution point.

The CV shafts do interchange with the u joint shafts. From the factory they only came in the V8 Grand Cherokees, though. Sparkles (96 XJ) currently runs CV shafts in the old disconnect housing out of Wilbur (87 MJ) using a 4.10 gear set out of a YJ Wrangler. That disconnect housing did have a CAD delete done on it, though, and the CV shafts had the ABS tone ring taken off. Oh, and I retained the steering knuckles and newer brakes off Sparkles' original 2wd front axle. I have used various methods to remove ABS tone rings. Simplest, quickest and most satisfying way I have found is a few good whacks with a 2 pound framing hammer.

88 Comanche has no fuses under the hood.

Any, also all YJ and ZJ. But TJ or 97 and newer XJ will give you the larger, stronger u joint. Any year ABS XJ will too, but you may have to remove the ABS tone ring if it interferes with the unit bearing. Some ZJs have the larger u joints as well, as do some 95 YJs.

The front case and mid plate are identical.

You say you swapped the engine bay harness. Evidently there is either a problem in the harness, or something is not hooked up.

I ended up just welding it back on. 3/8 bead the whole way around instead of just the two little beads top and bottom. If it ever breaks away again I will spend the time to put a steel plate behind it and bolt it on. Halfway through:

Well, no luck. My local parts dept. doesn't have it, the part has been discontinued and the only dealer that show it being in stock can't find it, meaning they either misplaced it, or don't have it. Guess I'll try to McGuyver it.

Yep, got it. Turns out there's a TSB on it covering 1993 through 1997. Thanks!

Got a frantic call from my daughter: her door (96 XJ) wouldn't close because the top bracket thingy broke. She said it was wobbly last night... So I go over to where she is at, turns out the top driver side door hinge ripped out. At first I thought the welds broke, but when I looked closer, the steel ripped out of the unibody around the welds. Has anybody ever seen this before? What would be the easiest way to fix it?

If your buddy's XJ is a 4 cylinder, the transmission internals will be the same, but the output shaft and the case will be different because it will be made for s driveshaft to hook up to it, rather than a transfer case bolted to it. Hard to go into 1st unless you're moving to me seems like both a worn syncro and a clutch that won't completely disengage which would mean either air in the line or a bad slave cylinder (or with an internal slave, a flywheel that has been ground down too far during resurfacing if it ever had the clutch replaced before). Popping out would be a problem with the transmission itself. If you feel adventurous, take both apart and make one good 4wd one out of the two.

Try it in Neutral. If there is a problem with the switch itself and it won't start in Park, Neutral usually still works. I believe the engine harness to actually be the same between the two, but don't know about the transmission harness that plugs into it near the center of the firewall/oil filter/dip stick. Not trying to point out the obvious, but you will also need a TCU. Although even without a TCU it will still work, but you will have to shift it manually with the gear selector, and the torque converter won't lock up.