mvusse

Never heard of that. But the lwb did have a 16 gallon tank available. Never seen one yet, though. All the ones I have seen were the 23.5 gallon one.

Everybody is always spouting $#!& about the C101 connector, but I have never had one problem with either one of them.

No, the stock seal will not work because the passenger side tube has not been machined for it. Napa Oil Seal 11800 works pretty good. And since there is nothing in the tube to prevent the seal from going in deeper, when it goes bad, just put a new one up against it, pushing the bad one deeper into the tube. The housing under Sparkles (which was the original housing under Wilbur) now has 5 or 6 seals on the passenger side. Every time I broke a shaft it ate out the seal causing it to start leaking.

1 - front driveshaft is supposed to spin freely when in 2wd. Front axle shaft is disconnected, front yoke on transfer case is disconnected, so there is nothing there to stop it from doing that. 2 - 4wd IS NOT FOR USE ON DRY PAVEMENT. You noticed it binds the driveline in turns. This is a good way to break an axle shaft, drive shaft or transfer case. It is for mud, snow or deep gravel only. If you can hear the sound when sitting at a stop light, there is nothing turning from the transmission on back, just the engine and what's connected directly to the cranks shaft which would be a torque converter or a clutch depending on transmission. As cruiser asked, what transmission?

Yes, the short bed did not come out until the 87 model year.

Pulled the Purple People Eater out of the shop, drove it to the end of the driveway, and pushed it back up the driveway and into the shop.Will be driving my RC for a week or so. @%$@ clutch grenaded when I went to pull out of the driveway.

Small u joint shafts, large u joint shafts and CV joint shafts are all interchangeable, to a point. You can't run a disconnect shaft in a non-disconnect housing. You can run a non-disconnect passenger side shaft in a disconnect housing, but you need to remove the vacuum shift mechanism and add a non standard oil seal in the diff. Not a bad idea to also block off the shift housing opening with a plate. All CV axle shafts I have seen have a tone ring for ABS, some large u joint shafts do as well. Some unit bearings do not work with the tone ring. The tone ring is just a press fit on the axle, though and a couple of good whacks with a hammer will remove it. Or you could go buy a new unit bearing for ~$100. I prefer to use the hammer.

Purple People Eater was $55. Wilbur cost me half that last year and does not need to be renewed until 2050 (historical vehicle).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-603-300-ENGINE-COOLANT-RESERVOIR-RECOVERY-TANK-BOTTLE-87-90-JEEP-CHEROKEE-/370750593786?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACherokee&hash=item5652751afa&vxp=mtr

Where the uppers connect to the lowers basically makes it a radius arm (or 2 link) set up. No personal experience, but friends who have them complain about major suspension unloading on uphill trails.

But the one in the older Comanches (and Cherokees) is not an overflow tank. It is a pressure bottle.

The firewall was changed a but to fit a 4.0 in 87. Some late 86 models have the newer firewall, most do not. Supposedly the needed extra clearance is not much, though, and basically just takes a few good blows with a hammer, no saw required. 87 and newer don't need anything done to the firewall. The radiator support is a different story.

When I needed a new one I got one off Ebay for less than $30.

My front axle is always engaged. But without power to the pinion in 2wd, it was completely invisible.

On a Lock-right, the pins are "supposed to break" to protect the rest of the axle. I call BS on that. Any part that is designed to fail has a serious design flaw. The Aussie has been engineered by the same people who designed the Lock-right, but without this flaw. As in the pins on an Aussie are not supposed to break. The Lock-right used to have a maximum tire size beyond which the warranty was void, but this may have been changed since I bought my locker. Aussie never claimed a maximum tire size. The only locker I have personal experience with is the Aussie. It is not unbreakable, as I have broken one, twice. The first time was supposedly a fluke as I have never found anyone, nor had the maker ever heard of anyone breaking their's in the way I broke mine. The second time I grenaded the entire innards of the pumpkin and surprisingly, without a cross shaft holding things together it stayed put where it was supposed to be with the only damage being two pins. Don't know much if anything about the Spartan.

The biggest problem with hard tap water is not that it causes rust, it is that it has iron in it (that's what makes it "hard") that will separate out as rust gunk. This will happen within days if not hours of filling it. I plugged up two radiators before I learned to use distilled water.

The CV joints are smoother for street driving, and supposedly about as strong as the small u joints. The u joint shafts with the large joints supposedly are stronger.

Was $3.47 this morning. $3.75 now.

Brown sediment from rust means you used tap water (and have hard water) instead of distilled as is specified in the manual.

No, the corners are all rounded over. I still have all the springs and pins. Between the side gears and the center ones there are 4 ways to put it together. Maybe one of the 4 ways will still work, maybe not. Either way, the point is moot because I'm in the process of fitting one tons under my truck.

I got to Dover Dirt Trails once in a while as it's something like 2 miles from my house. Pretty fun when it's dry, but a nightmare when it's wet. I also go to Southington Offroad (used to be Jeepskool) a few times a year. I used to go every month, but it got too expensive and I have conquered all but one of their trails. I like the camping atmosphere there as I know just about everybody and my daughter loves their trails. I'm also a member of Stillwell Stompers, who have access to some of the finest wheeling in Ohio. They consider 35" tires "small", though and 33 is the absolute minimum to be able to get around on their trails unless you're a Samurai. Sammies can manage on 31s. My truck isn't anywhere near ready to get back on the trails yet, though.

Every engine I have worked on has had a drain plug to drain the coolant. Problem is they are usually so rusted in they will break before it will unscrew. Therefore I use pressurized air to evacuate coolant from the block.

Could be, simple to tell for sure: remove the thermostat housing and take a look. But the dash gauge is inherently unreliable.