mvusse

6 cylinder ZJs have them.

Not quite. I does accept the same steering column, the same pitman arm and has the same 7/16 bolt holes in the same place.

The 242 case is larger, so it would hang down a bit lower. My 231 skid plate, however, has more than enough clearance to fit a 242. They are the same strength, but the 242 adds a full time 4wd option which is nice for winter driving on snow. 231 does have more aftermarket support.

I would start with a 4.0, and add a turbo to it if you really want that. Currently in the process of fitting a D60 under the front. Not as simple as it seemed. Thought about a 14b in the rear, but too big and don't want to spend the money to shave it. Opting for a Sterling 10.25" instead.

"Handling" and "lifted off road capable truck" are pretty much diabolically opposite goals. Either you build the truck to handle great, build it to be a capable offroader, or find a happy medium making concessions on both ends. Out of all the different brands parts I have on my rigs, I am happiest with the quality of the Rock Krawler stuff. Don't think they make any MJ specific stuff, but all the front XJ parts will work.

They are stronger. They are also bigger around which means you need to space it way from the frame more than the stock aluminum bracket does. Some also have a shorter stroke meaning you need to disassemble the box and modify it to get your full steering range back.

Jeep says use ATF in 231, Jeep says use ATF in 242, GM says use ATF in 241, and I have NEVER in over 200,000 combined miles on those three vehicles had the fluid foam and come out the vent tube. This ranges from hard core off road to city driving to hours on end running 75 only interrupted by fuel stops. (Strasburg to Chicago 400 miles, Strasburg to Canada 400 miles, Strasburg to Daytona, Ormond or Orlando 900 miles, Strasburg to Columbus, GA 800 miles)

When I had an AX15 (in the XJ I traded for my dd MJ) I used Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30. Same as I use now in my AX5.

I buy slap wood at a local sawmill. About 1/2 cord for $35. Only thing is it comes in 8'-12' lengths so you'll have to chop them up. My wood burner is 5' deep, so I just cut them into 4' chunks. Gets loaded onto my trailer with an earth mover with forks, takes about 2 minutes, gets unloaded 1 piece at a time as I cut them up and burn them, takes about a week. In this cold weather that heats my 8500 sq ft shop and the landlord's mother's 2000 sq ft house for about a week.

How about a Chevette. The guy who built it ended up selling it, lost track of it when it sold again, found it again and bought it back and is wheeling it again: His stance is, for the right price, anything is for sale. Which is why he usually goes through 3 or 4 cars a year.

I heat my shop with an outside wood burner. Didn't go into work Tuesday, (high temp of 9) so when I went in yesterday morning (0 degrees out) the wood burner was out and the shop was below 40 degrees. When I went home around 5:30 I got the one end of the shop (where I worked prettu much all day) up to 62 degrees, the other end up to 54 (two furnaces, water feed it sequential between the two). Hoping today will be warmer as I need to work in the other end now.

The 242 does not use a viscous coupling, it uses a center differential. With the tires off the ground, tcase in full time 4wd and transmission in P, if you spin one driveshaft one direction, the other one will spin the opposite direction.

And evidently it doesn't even do the job it was designed to do: repel water and prevent corrosion.

Stock one might work, but with your lift it may not. Measure the length you need and have a drivetrain shop cut your 2wd one down and rebalance it.

So that's not the metallic grey my 87 started out as?

Stretched chain in the transfer case skipping teeth.

See if that customer service is still as awesome when you try to warranty a broken part.

The 88 and newer ones use red markings and a different connection for the speedometer cable than the 87 and older ones that use blue icons (and blue km/h numbers on the US ones). The 87 and older ones also have a tick for every 1 mph whereas the 88 and newer one have one tick for every 2.5 mph. Both styles are available with gauges and with dummy lights. I think the newer ones with gauges automatically had a tach, but the older ones with gauges could be had with or without a tach. Older one with gauges AND tach can be difficult to find. With gauges but no tach is quite common, and I should have one somewhere, but all I can find right now are two dummy light ones.

Tail shaft also has to be changed. That involves COMPLETE disassembly. So you might as well keep looking for a 4wd AW4. And in that case you mght as well get the transfer case with it because I don't think the two transmissions (AW4 and AX15) are the same spline count AND the same output shaft length.

To keep it from bogging down every time it hits second gear, put the shifter in 1-2 and keep the tach just below 4000 rpm. And what broke? Unit bearing or ball joints? Bad memories:

87 still used the same cluster. I believe they changed in 88, then again in 91 for the electronic speedometer and fuel sender.

The angles I find myself on when off road a carburetor would not stand a chance. Heck, even with a 1/2 tank of gas I stalled it out once because the pump was sucking air.

In that case, then why not just replace the pump? Between $40 and $70 depending on what brand you want. Bosch is $64.

For the cost and hassle I would just go to the junk yard and get a whole new transfer case. Jeep NP231 are a dime a dozen.

Stock replacement gas tank at Rock Auto is $97 for the swb and $130 for the lwb. Use your existing pump and sender. Cheaper and simpler to go that route.