mvusse

The increased spring pack stiffness from adding another leaf will lift him some. On top of that, he's SOA, so the thickness of the spring itself will lift it a bit more. One added leaf may do it.

Knock on his door, ask if it's for sale and ask if you can look at it.

What is the 10th digit of the vin? That will tell you the year.

I was wondering why on earth they decided to do that too. As for the revolver shackles, I watched it again this morning to get a good look at it, and they are NOT revolver shackles. They are boomerang shackles. They work good on a lifted Cherokee to clear the end of the shackle "box", but don't do much if anything for a Comanche other than they are stronger than the stock ones.

Your springs aren't maxed out, but depending on compressed length, your shocks may be. You can get an add-a-leaf, you can bastard pack your spring pads, or you can add a 2nd overload leaf.

My custom rear driveshaft cost me around $400, but that includes more than 4' of 3" diameter 3/16" wall DOM tubing, perfectly balanced. After bending two on a rock and twisting one in half during a wheelstand I asked my locat drivetrain specialist (J.W. Cookson) to built me something bullet proof. I've had the truck sitting on it rolling sideways over a rock instead of going forward/backward without any more damage than put scratches in the paint. For most people that would be overkill, though. If you can find a 2wd Comanche, or Toyota I believe uses the same size u joints, you can have it cut down to the length you need, which is a lot cheaper than having one lengthened or custom built. SYE is going to cost the most, because not only do you need to do the SYE on the transfer case, you then need a slip joint in the driveshaft, which makes it more expensive, and if you go with a double cardan joint up on top (even more expensive) like most people do (like the front driveshaft) you're going to have to cut your new spring perches off and have them welded on again to set the pinion angle correctly for that type of driveshaft.

Ditto. My Comanche on a short arm 4 link flexes more than that and is limited by the shocks.

Just I remembered I have this one. A friend of mine who works at Morris 4x4 after moving to Florida took this for me at Jeep Beach earlier this year:

Yeah, I'm 6'5"....

At some point I will get a two post lift. But need a garage with at least a 12 foot ceiling first.

When it was still stock my 87 4.0 would get 24mpg on the highway if I kept the speed down to 60mph, and mixed mileage of 17 until I put the big tires under it.

I had it happen a few days ago and again last night. Running Chrome under Linux. So the problem is not with our computers.

So I'm not the only who noticed that detail.

Most useful has go to be the forklift truck. And no, it's not the most expensive. That would be a 36" wide belt sander followed by a 10hp shaper.

Stock 3.55 gears AX4, bit larger than stock tires (235/75R15 or about 29" versus stock 205/75R15 which is about 27", speedo is off by about 5mph at highway speeds) To Chicago and back, on the way there, 75mph for a few hundred miles on the turnpike, pretty much flat grade I got 19mpg in 4th gear with my AX4. On the way back I took a different road and cruised 60 the whole way and got 27mpg. Clearly, at 75mph the engine is revving way past the sweet spot for mileage. Note that an AX5 with the factory 4.10 gears has the same final drive ratio in 5th as the AX4 does in 4th with it's 3.55 gears. So I decided to swap in an AX5 but keep the 3.55 gears. 5th is about gutless, but headed north I tried again. At 75mph I now get 24 mpg (way better than the 19 without the 5th gear), at 60 it is still 27 mpg. This is on summer gas, winter mileage will be worse. Mixed driving year round I get 20-21 mpg averaged over 16,000 miles so far. I may at some point swap in an AX15 and regear the axles as its overdrive is a lot deeper than an AX5's. And on topic: since this is his thread, the OP gets first dibs on that yoke.

The 27 spline/29 spline on the 8.25 is the spline count on the axle shafts and spider gears. This has nothing to do with the spline count on the yoke/pinion shaft.

You want to look for 97 (late 96) or newer to get the better 29 spline one.

Correct. What year XJ is it under?

The yoke is the same for both the 27 spline and the 29 spline axles. Only things different are axle shafts, spider gears and maybe the carrier.

I have one in Ohio (44680). Yo can have it if you come pick it up.

If the check gauges light comes on, the problem is before the signal from the oil pressure sender (should be right next to the oil filter) get to the PCM. But it could also be a defective oil filter. Replace it with a good quality one (Purolater Pur-One, Wix, NAPA) and might change the oil too to see if there's anything in it.

My MJ weighs in around 5,000 pounds. Adding up the modifications I come up 800 pounds short of that. That is probably the amount of mud inside the frame. I am in the process of installing new axles that combined weigh about 1000 pounds more than the ones under there now. My new front axle alone weighs in at about 700 pounds, the current D30 I can pick up by hand and walk off with. So over 5000 pounds when I'm done with the current mods, not counting the suspected 800 pounds of mud. I have yet see a JK (even a friend's Hemi on 40s, or another friend's 4 door with Dynatrac Axles and 42s) come in at twice that, or over 10K pounds. I'm hard pressed to believe a built 7K or 8K pounds JK would still be on a stock unmodified D30 or D44 front axle. I'm with Eagle on this one.

Wix is good, Napa is good (made by Wix), Purolater Pur-One is good. There may be others. Mobil 1? Fram, STP and most store brands are crap.

And what do you do that needs deeper than 2.72:1? You could always put a range box in front of it.

I have an emergency tool kit, cheapo version of most commonly needed stuff, that usually resides in one of my vehicles. Tool box is at the shop as a heated/air conditioned shop with a concrete floor beats a gravel driveway any time for working on vehicles. Last house had a double attached garage and a 24x32 pole building with 10 foot ceiling and 16x9 door; I got spoiled there. When going off road the tool box gets moved either inside the tow rig/camper or into my truck's bed, securely strapped down. It weighs well over 100 pounds. Mostly decent quality (Craftsman, Napa), some good stuff (Snap On) and a few HF pieces because they have a lifetime warranty are close to the junk yard. Closer than Sears anyway. Some time this week a $19 Proto (Stanley) socket will be added to it. On a side note, Ace Hardware also carries Craftsman now. Advance Auto Parts carried Craftsman at one point, but hasn't anymore for a number of years now.