mvusse

Then I would say a battery problem despite being brand new.

I do not think you would ever damage a stock D44 shaft with 31" tires. Having your seals replaced, despite being a pain on a D44, should be many times less expensive than aftermarket alloy shafts you do not need.

my Autozone has a pretty knowledgeable Ford guy and also a Chevy guy. When it comes to Jeeps they assume I know better than they do and if I don't have the part number I need written down with me half the time they turn the computer over to me to find it. If not I look over their shoulder and walk them through step by step until I find the part I need. Pretty funny how a front exhaust pipe for an 87 Comanche 4.0 shows as "not available" but when I started over to check an 87 4.0 Cherokee one came up. They use the same pipe!

You will reuse your MJ u bolt plate and shock mount, but use NEW ubolts. Don't reuse your old ones.

Seller s full of BS. No scrap yard will take a vehicle without a title. If he had title issues the scrap yard would not have taken it. There are no title issues, there was no scrap guy. Either he still has the truck or he sold it to somone else for more. I'm guessing you showed so much interest he think it's worth more. It'll be relisted in 6 months for $1K.

Use an angle grinder to cut the shock mounts and spring perches off the axle, then get some perches from Mopar Perfomance or other source and have a welder buddy burn them on for a case of beer. In my case I had a local welding shop do it for $20 cash, no receipt. Don't know what it would have cost if I wanted a receipt or paid by check. Take your old axle with you as well, to measure where the perches go and with what pinion angle.

Take the wires off the terminal, clean the battery terminals AND the cable clamps. reinstall them and make sure they are tight.

Older squareish bodystyle S10.

Later year XJs (97+?) they used 4.10 gears with the 2.5 no matter what transmission is had.

The case is in the scrap aluminum pile, the switch *might* be in a 5 gallon bucket of misc parts. Will try to remember to look tomorrow.

I got my truck with an AX4, it had two plugs on it, one operated the reverse light, the other one (the one that the right connector goes to) connected to a switch on the 4th gear shift rail. I swapped in an AX5, it had the one plug so I plugged that one in, and I have working reverse lights. It did not have the circular connector, so I could not plug that one in (it has a plug threaded into the hole). My shift light does not come on anymore. If I would feel more energetic I would crawl under my truck and splice the two wires together to see if that makes my shift light work again to prove my theory.

The very first plug (round thing with two holes) is for the shift light. It is open in top gear and reverse, closed in the other gears. leaving it off (like when using a transmission that doesn't have a hookup for it) won't do anything besides disabling the shift light.

Go back to the yard and write down the vin...

DC Power Engineering seems to only make them for Chevy/GMC, Ford and Dodge Ram trucks. I can't find anything for a Jeep.

I'm going against the grain here. You don't need a lift for 31s, but it would look better and work better off road with a bit of lift. I would go with a budget boost: 1.75" pucks up front, depending on how the truck sits and your preference either leave the rear alone or get a pair of 2" Chevy drop shackles for ~3/4" lift in the rear. Your current brake hoses will still be long enough and it is a small enough lift that you don't need to worry about control arms or track bar. You will want to get the longer sway bar links from a newer XJ, though. To match your current rear axle ratio you would need a 3.54 or 3.55 ratio front axle, these are plentiful with a 4.0/automatic transmission combo. If you can get one from between 95 and 99 it will be high pinion, non-disconnect and have the larger (stronger) u joints. With 31" tires behind a 4 cylinder I would instead opt for 4.10 ratio axles. These would come behind a 4 cylinder/5 speed stick. Not as common as the 3.55 axles, but not all too difficult to find. I would get both axles, front driveshaft, transmission and transfer case all from the same vehicle (95-99 XJ WITHOUT ABS would be optimal), and get a speedometer cable from a 84-90 4wd XJ with a 4 cylinder because your current one would be too short, and swap the speedo pickup out of your transmission and into the new transfer case. It won't be completely accurate but you can always get a new gear at a later time.

The Grand Cherokee rear disc brakes changed partway through the 94 model year. Take your old pads with you to the store and match them up. Then depending on which ones they are, next time tell them either 1993 or 1995.

For Cherokees and Comanche 2.5 and 4.0 don't use anywhere near the same radiator, nor are they even mounted in the same place under the hood. Maybe Wranglers use the same one for both, but our trucks don't.

I'm of the belief if it works, don't mess with it, related to don't fix what ain't broke. Maybe long arms will come in the future, but I'm guessing I will link the rear axle before doing major mods to the front.

Power steering fluid does not come anywhere near the fuse block, it is only in the pump, the reservoir and the steering gear box, as well as the hoses in between. If it leaked on the fuse block and turned it to goo it must be a master cylinder leak for the clutch.

Some of the trails I do are steep. Most long armed Jeeps are scared of those trails because their front suspension unloads. My short arms don't do that, and yet they flex as well as most of those long arms, being limited by my shocks (10" travel front, 14" rear). It works, why change it. I have never seen a 3 link done on a TJ/XJ/MJ/ZJ using short arms. Didn't (and still don't) know why that is. Why would I need to be wary of the exhaust? Upper control arm on passenger side, exhaust on driver side. Yes, the front pipe does cross over to the passenger side in line with the upper control arm bracket, but it turns toward the rear of the truck long before it comes anywhere near close to it. So I will have to replace/strengthen/brace the frame side upper control arm mount.

You have an all original collector's vehicle that needs to be fixed with OEM parts to stay original. Make sure their insurance agent understands that.

It's an 89 high pinion king pin out of a F350. Driver side axle tube between pumpkin and inner C is only 2 5/8" long. I currently have Rock Krawler adjustable upper control arms using a johnny joint on top and the stock bushing on the axle. Was planning to reuse one of them, but using a johnny joint on the axle end as well. My adjustable lower control arms use poly bushings on both ends and will need replaced. Double sheer track bar using a heim joint on top and poly on the axle end I think I should be able to reuse also. Don't think I'm going to worry about a sway bar until I have my steering all finalized so I can see if and where I can mount brackets for it. The upper control arm axle bracket will probably like the one I just had welded on my D30. Solid 1/2" bracket with two 1/4" gussets. 3 link should have no problem with room, limited real estate becomes a problem if I want to retain a 4 link.

Up through 90 should be the same. Newer than that might be (look the same to me) but don't know for sure.

Looks like your floor rusted from the inside out. Next time you have a heavy rain, check for leaks around the doors and windshield and get those fixed. For sealing the doors, 97+ Cherokee weather stripping works better than stock.

I would not worry about the radio until you get the fuse block replaced. Then if it still doesn't work reliably start tracking it down.