mvusse

Driver side done from underneath? That sounds like a pain with the exhaust of front driveshaft in the way. I did mine from on top, removed the air filter housing and you have great access.

They are the same length. XJ is mirror image of MJ. Pull the pump and see if the sock is still attached to the bottom. And how do you know the tank is still 1/4 full? The stock fuel gauge is even less reliable than the coolant temp and oil pressure ones. When it runs out of fuel, how many gallons to fill it back up?

The regular TJ had a low pinion D30 front axle, but the TJ Rubicon came with a low pinion D44, selectable lockers front and rear a 4:1 low range instead of 2.72:1 and I believe a 241 transfer case instead of a 231. Don't know if that model was sold oversees, though, and even used those axles go for $1K or more. If you shorten the Ford 44 to use full size Wagoneer shafts you will be within 1/2" of stock width. I know someone who swapped in a Wagoneer D44, but it is low pinion.

Don't know what automatic came behind the 2.5 as I have never seen one yet, but the AW4 that comes behind a 4.0 will not bolt up to a 2.5. Bell housing/bolt pattern is not even close between the 2.5/2.8 and the 4.0. Automatic trans out of a 2.8/3.1/3.4 Camaro or S-10 should bolt up, though, as will rear wheel drive Buick 3800.

A while ago I could have had a balljoint high pinion 60 with 4.10 gears and matching Sterling 10.25 with limited slip for $600. But didn't have the money. Ended up finding a king pin high pinion 60 in a Pull-a-Part for a bit under $200. complete hub to hub. They seem to go for $600-$700 on 4x4 sites around here, but F250 owners wanting to get rid of their TTB front axle will pay upwards of $1K for them. Rear axles are cheap and plentiful. 14 bolt is bullet proof, but a boat anchor unless shaved ($500 plus labor), D70, D80 are around the same size. D60 could be good depending on tire size, 2nd gen Sterling 10.25 is pretty good and supposedly has about the same ground clearance as a shaved 14 bolt. That's what I'm planning to mate my front 60 with. On a side note, Ballistif Fab makes a shave kit for a front high pinion 60 now. Unless you already have tires for a 16" or larger wheel (needed to clear the brakes), rubber might cost you more than the axles. Unless you're a friend of mine who got a free set of 42" MT/Rs for helping Goodyear test them, then spent $7400 on a pair of Currie axles to mount them under his JK. I would stay away from a front D44. The main weak points in my D30 are the unit bearings and the u-joints (and the flimsy sheet metal control arm mounts, but they are easily upgraded when one needs to be replaced). While a Ford D44 will get rid of the unit bearings, they still use the same size u joints. I have tried the $45 Alloy USA ones and even they don't stand up to a locker and 35" tires. And I'm not paying $300 for CTM.

And back to the first post, the clicking is just the fuel pump relay turning the fuel pump on for a second or so to build initial pressure. If the problem is the ballast resisitor, easiest fix is to just bypass it. 87 models didn't even come with one from the factory, and its only purpose is to quiet down the fuel pump some so customers wouldn't complain about a loud fuel pump. The computer bypasses it on start and during WOT.

I've wheeled with some Toys, and they are quite capable.

Rest of the brackets to mount the D60, Sterling 10.25" axle as well as spring perches and shock mounts for it, 5 Hummer double beadlocks with rewelded centers and used military 37x12.50 MT tires. I think I got the D60 handled, don't know about the Sterling yet, wheels and tires can hopefully be bought with income tax return. If not it'll be a long time before it's gonna be on a trail again.

Drained Wilbur's oil. disconnected battery, scraped/chipped 20 pounds of oil soaked clay off the bottom of the engine, started removing oil pan bolts. Swapped snow tires back onto the Purple People Eater. Bring on the winter, I'm ready!

Not supposed to be a gap like that. I myself run Rock Krawler adjustable upper control arms. One of the best parts between the cobbled together front suspensions of both Wilbur and Sparkles, and besides springs and spacers the only parts I have never had a problem with and I could never find anything to complain about.

Don't know if it was that one or not, but I've seen a yellow Comanche with a 4BT at Jeepskool/Southington Offroad on a couple of occasions. Last time I saw him there he had cut a hole in his hood to fit a second turbo for a twin turbo setup. If a twin turbo 4BT can't fit under the hood, I really doubt a 6BT will fitwith or without turbos.

From the thread title I was expecting something more along the lines of this:

Even with a 242 shift gate I hat trouble adjusting Sparkles linkage to go all the way from 2wd to 4-low. Best I could get was so close to 4-low you could hear the gears grinding but no engaging. Ended up taking a Dremel to the shift gate and elongating the slot 1/4" in the back. Works flawlessly now.

Doesn't even qualify as an attempt at a collector's truck. Aftermarket front bumper, hacked up dash switch blank for alarm LED, tonneau cover that was installed by drilling holes in the bed, and the hood insulation is missing. Too bad he paid $4k for a paint job because he will never get that money back out of it.

AFAIK, Selec-Trac was never offered on the MJ, but some people have swapped in a 242 transfer case themselves. I still need to get the correct switch for my daughter's XJ as it's 242 came out of a ZJ and has a different switch with a 4 pin connector.

The only Comanches I've seen broken in two/with a buckled frame it happened right between the cab and the bed, not underneath the cab. That floor/rocker panel looks better than 99% of the Comanches on the road up here in the rust belt.

Truth remains: 1 - conventional GL-3 and GL-4 do not exist anymore unless you pay $$$ to "boutique" companies. 2 - GL-5 will kill your brass synchros. 3 - 10W30 synthetic motor oil makes a better alternative to GL-3 than GL-5. I will trust the dealership and transmission manufacturer before an oil company's marketing department.

A lot of current manual transmissions use hypoid gears and need GL-5 to handle the sheer stresses of those gears. Neither the AX4, AX5 nor AX15 use hypoid gears.

I know for a fact early and mid 90s AX4 and AX5 have brass synchros as I have had them apart and combined into one mostly good AX5. edit to add: It seems the early owners and service manuals erroneously listed GL-5, and was later fixed to read GL-3 for at least the AX4 and AX5. GL-4 is an upgrade to GL-3 and is good to use also (unlike I stated earlier). Supersede Chrysler part numbers now list motor oil as GL-3 is almost impossible to find anymore. Supposedly Redline MTL and MT90 and some other (Royal Purple, Amsoil?) are safe for brass also. The AX15 may have changed synchro material at some point during the mid 90s, but have not been able to verify this.

MJ transmissions (AX4/AX5/AX15) are supposed to use GL-3, not 5. GL-5 has a crapload of sulphur which is great for hypoid gears like in the front and rear diff, but it will eat the brass synchros in our transmissions. When GL-3 was being phased out, the specs changed to 10W30 motor oil as it is supposed to be about the same viscosity as 80W90 and has no sulphur. GL-4 has sulphur as well, but not as much as GL-5.

I had a Thrush glass pack that I happened to have laying around on my 94 XJ and ended up installing a stock muffler because the drone was too loud for my comfort. It is now on my trail truck with just a front pipe in front of it, no cat, no tailpipe and is a lot quieter than it was on the 94 HO engine. Don't know about the Flowmaster, but do expect the sound to be a bit louder than what you have now.

I shave more than my face. I shave the top of my head as well, so it all matches the ever growing bald spot. Except this month, it is November, after all.

$5500 seems right as a collector's item (and this thing does fit the bill). As just a motor home it is high as a friend of mine just bought a 26 footer with 3/4 bath that sleeps 8 for $1300.

Wilbur (trail pig) and The Purple People Eater (daily driver). Also have "the van" (camper/tow rig) and Sparkles, my daughter's Cherokee. In the past: Da Bomb (84 Old 98) The Blue Bomb (1972/74/79/80/81 Ford F100, titled as a 79) "The Prizm" (1990 Geo Prizm) Bourbon (1994 Chevy Suburban) Booger (1994 Cherokee)

A 2wd transmission has an output shaft for a driveshaft. It has no provisions to bolt a transfer case to it. So no matter what 2wd transmission you get, you'll have to replace it if you want to go 4wd.