mvusse

Handled a number of transfer cases. Guessing about 50 pounds or so, possibly less. Don't know about the AX15. only had one vehicle with one and never had it out.

The AX4 and AX5 transmissions only came behind the 4 cylinder. The BA10/5 and later the AX15 came behind the 6 cylinder. AX15 can be made to fit a 4 cylinder engine by using the bellhousing from a 4 cylinder/AX15 Dodge Dakota.

But we need to know your miles per gallon before we can tell you how far you can go on on a full tank of gas. What you still seem to not grasp is whether you want to know miles per gallon or not, we need to know miles per gallon to be able to answer your question.

When my Suburban did that it was a mostly clogged catalytic converter.

Does it overheat in stop and go traffic or idling in your driveway, or does it overheat running 75mph down the highway?

At least one the 4.0, the fuel pump has it's own relay and is not driven by the starter relay. Don't know about the 2.5 and the 2.8 has a mechanical pump.

Had a memory lapse that got jogged by some of the previous responses. X2 (or 3 or 4) on the AC Delco plugs. I had a 94 Suburban with a 350 and it seemed to hate any spark plug except the stock AC Delco ones.

Or go to a higher octane gasoline...

Remove the bed, turn the rear springs around, lose more than a foot off the back, build custom rear bumper, move gas tank to on top of frame OR install fuel cell, figure out tube work and bed to fit toolbox, cooler and spare tire. But first I have to make a new upper control arm bracket to replace the one I ripped off the axle last outing off road. That's exactly why I've always been hesitant to run non-disconnect front housings, but after grenading the last axle, that's all I had left laying around and I didn't want to bother transplanting the guts into the old housing. Silly me already took the old housing to the scrap yard :doh: or I'd swap it back in with the guts out of the new one.

Are you sure it's an AX15, or is it the factory piece of junk AX5?

Bed is not a problem for me. Outer skins are gone already, what's left will go also. Some tubing, some diamond steel or maybe even steel mesh, and make a bed just big enough for a fuel cell, toolbox, cooler and spare tire.

I have seen pictures of a build somewhere with flip flopped springs, but keeping the wheelbase the same. Cut the spring mounts off the frame, then cut a hold in the bottom of the frame rail and plated the sides, mounting the front of the spring inside the frame rail. The back was bobbed, new bumper was built, and the spring shackles came off the bottom of the bumper, pretty much directly behind the tire. That is my plan for this winter, but I can't find the original build.

My daughter's Cherokee runs 265/75R16 tires (~32x10.50) on 16" Jeep Liberty wheels with ~4" lift. works okay, but still needs new track bar installed as well as longer control arms. Passenger front tire makes contact with the rear of the wheel opening when hitting a bump on a right hand turn.

On top of that the JK unit bearings use a different wheel bolt pattern.

There are 3 lines going to the axle, one is to engage it that comes from the transfer case, one is to disengage it that also comes from the transfer case, and one that runs to a vacuum switch under the engine coolant reservoir that operated the dash "4wd" light. The transfer case has a third one that terminates at a vent on or near the firewall and a 4th one that supplies vacuum from the intake manifold. Some YJ axles do not have the third line for the switch, but instead have an electric switch mounted directly on the axle. Don't know the specific colors on any of these because I got rid of my vacuum disconnect crap years ago.

Don't know if the 91 TCU can communicate with the Renix sensors, and I don't know if your 89 TCU can talk to the 91 transmission. At the very least be prepared for the possibility of splicing wires to and/or from the TCU. 91 has the 4.0 HO using a Chrysler computer and injection system with OBD I, 89 is the earlier 4.0 using a Renault/Bendix (Renix) computer and injection system which does not do OBD. Any chance you can trade that 91 for an 87 through 90? I'm pretty sure the 91 TCU does not have the provision for the power/comfort switch, but is always in power mode. That really is not a problem, though. The 91 transfer case will have an electronic vehicle speed sensor while your 89 uses a mechanical one. You should be able to fit your mechanical one in the 91 transfer case, but you will need a longer cable, and I don't know if the wires from the 91 just run the speedometer, or go to the TCU as well. If the TCU needs it as well, you'll have to use your 89 TCU which may or may not plug into the 91 transmission without splicing wires.

With the 4 link, keeping stock control arms, caster doesn't change that much. Bigger problem is toe in. With the stock inverted Y steering set up, lift adds toe in. When I lifted my MJ 4.5" I ended up with 2" toe in and horrendous death wobble. At 25-30mph I experienced a DW episode so severe it fried the alternator bearings, knocked the face plate off the radio and rattled my teeth out of my mouth. After I reset the toe to 0 I had no more DW. With a radius arm setup like a lot of Fords, or a popular (because of price) long arm conversion caster changes a lot with lift. If somebody tells you your caster will change a lot when lifting your Jeep, then they don't understand how your suspension works. Trying to find a happy medium between caster angle and front pinion angle with 6.25" front lift I run about 4 degree caster at the moment with aftermarket adjustable control arms. I just glanced at that site about alignment on lifted Jeeps, but don't know how far to trust it as he specifies 13/15" bolt head on the lower control arm main bolts. They're metric 21mm. 13/16" may work, but is not the correct size.

I have an 87 MJ with the Renix 4.0, AW4 transmission with the 21 spline output and 35" tires on locked axles. Been told I wheel my truck harder than most, but have never had an issue with the transmission or transfer case. For that measure, never had an issue with the 4.0 either, and I like the simplicity of the Renix electronics. From my experience way more reliable than the Chrysler system used on the HO engines.

Do the front calipers bolt directly to the steering knuckle using metric bolts, or do they bolt to a bracket with Allen bolts that in turn bolts to the knuckles with E12 inverse Torx bolts?

What did you fill it with? Brass synchros do not like the sulphur in GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil. Generally 10W30 is advised.

You're looking at longer upper and lower control arms, longer track bar, longer sway bar links, brake hoses all around, shocks all around. Count on at least $1000 probably closer to $1500. Then 33" tires to make it look right (another $1000), deeper gears in the axles to turn those larger tires (another $1000) and your inexpensive rear SOA lift will cost you $3500.

The high pinion D30 from the factory also came with 39/11. I currently have two 3.55 D30s under my vehicles and have scrapped two more after grenading the diffs. Two had 46/13 and two had 39/11. All 4 were factory Spicer gears, ranging from 1987 through 1996.

I stand corrected. Once again I had been misinformed.

Almost as cool as my girlfriend who already had her own toolbox and VIP membership to Pull-a-Part before she even met me. :yes:

It's called a banjo bolt. Should be included with the brake hose as well as a brass washer to keep it from leaking.