mvusse

Looks somewhat familiar: Upper balljoint broke, bottom one popped out, took out the axle shaft u joint in the process. Nearest (public) road over a mile of hard wheeling uphill away meant I had no choice but to fix it in the creek. 27 hours later (4 hours of which was two runs to the nearest parts store) it drove out under it's own power with new balljoints and a ZJ cv shaft.

The 91 is electronic, yours is mechanical. But they use the same gear on the end, just an electronic pickup on top of it instead of a square hole for your cable. The way they go into the transfer case and fasten is also the same. Difficult to explain, easy to see when you have the two side by side. The gears can have a different number of teeth depending on axle ratio and stock tire size. Gears with a smaller number of teeth will be smaller and thus need to sit closer to the output shaft. This is done by mounting it off center in a round plate that can be clocked to the correct position for the plastic gear to mesh the output shaft correctly. The different positions for different sized gears are stamped in the transfer case.

If he gets the transmission with the transfer case attached that won't matter anyway. And there are more differences than 21/23 spline, like 3 different length input shafts depending on what they sat behind.

Replaced the Purple People Eater's serpentine belt. Noticed Wilbur's fan pulley has play in it.

If you have a short bed (6'), then yes. 'if you have a long bed (7'), you'll need Walker part #47605, which is $24 cheaper. Go figure, the shorter pipe is more expensive. :nuts:

I bought a stock replacement from autozone and installed it myself. If you don't have welder you can use clamps to connect it.

As spotted at the Bantam Jeep Festival this past weekend:

The back of the transfer case has a tag with among other things the model number. The 231 (Command Trac) has 2 high, 4 high, neutral and 4 low. The 242 (Selec Trac) has 2 high, 4 high, 4 full time (which is basically AWD), neutral and 4 low. If you don't care about the dash lights, the only other thing needed to make a 242 transfer case work is the shift gate, and lock the CAD on your front axle in (there are write ups elsewhere on this site on how do to that). The speedo pickup can simply be swapped from your old to the new transfer case. Before you take it off the old one, note the orientation, and put it on the new one the exact same way to make sure the plastic gear meshes correctly with the output shaft. If you forgot, or the new transfer case is the 242, look at the numbers cast into the case around the hole to figure out how it goes. The numbers note the different positions for different number of teeth on the speedometer gears. Also, you may have to lock the central axle disconnect regardless, because thew new transfer case might not have the vacuum controls to lock/unlock it. This is not a big deal, though.

Don't know about length, but you will have to swap the mechanical speedo pickup over to the new transfer case as it will be electronic. You will also need a flex plate for the torque converter to bolt to, and I do not believe the flex plates are interchangeable between Renix and Chrysler. Plus TCU, TCU harness and transmission harness.

Use a Dremel first to flatten the top and make a small dimple in the middle so you can start the drill bit centered.

An open system does not have a pressure tank, it has a recovery or overflow tank. A closed system has a pressure tank.

Actually, yes, it did.

Thanks. Now I got a crick in my neck.

96 was a weird year. Sparkles, my daughter's 96 XJ was an early 96 production year. It has OBD II spliced on top of the OBD I harness, Done from the factory, it's a kludge. The parts truck I got was late 96, and it used the same harness as the 97 ones. None of this will affect a 94, though.

That picture was not taken in MD. Not no way, not no how!

A 29 spline Chrysler 8.25" is plenty big enough for 35" tires, cheap, easy to find, and would just need perches and shock mounts. Front axle is a different story. Even the larger u joints don't hold up to 35" tires. I've tried Duralast Gold (junk), Neapco Brute Force (junk) Spicer cold forged 5-760x (pretty good) and the Alloy USA chromoly ones (possibly a bit stronger than Spicer, but not much). CTM joints in aftermarket shafts may survive, but that would cost me many times more money than the $225 I paid for the HP D60 sitting in my shop plus modification to fit it under my truck. Vast majority (don't know what, if any, are the exceptions) of D44 front axles use the same u joints. Some old ones use smaller (Spicer 5-260x). On top of that, 35" tires kill D30 unit bearings. Multiple a year. If you buy them new from the parts store they are between $90 and $125 each. And the only bigger front axle that is a bolt on (TJ Rubicon D44) uses the same D30 ends we have, so the only advantage would be the D44 pumpkin. But it is a low pinion axle, so only about as strong as a HP30. Only advantages left are factory locker, deeper available gear ratios, offset by price (they go for around $1000 here for a used one) and lower ground clearance. If you're set on the 35" tire size, I would try to find a Dana 50, but it will cost you quite a bit to make it bolt under your truck. Other option would be to modify the truck to use leaf springs. If you don't mind going to larger tires to offset pumpkin size I would opt for a D60. They are plentiful and popular so a lot of aftermarket support for them. Both of these would have 8 lug hubs, though, so you'd need an 8 lug rear axle. 35" is the size where everything gets expensive (I'm on my 4th D30 in two and a half years since I got my 35s). Mind you I've been told I wheel my truck harder than most. In my opinion you would be much better off with 6.5" lift and 33" tires. D30 should be able to handle them, rear axle swap is cheap. If you're going to use it as a daily driver as well I would get 10.5" tire width. 33x10.50 is an uncommon size, but they are out there. They would fit on stock 7" wide rims, but I would get a bit less backspacing than stock to keep them off the control arms in sharp turns. Just my $0.02 worth.

IIRC it's supposed to attach to the firewall near the brake booster. Can't double check, though as two of my thee Jeeps came from the factory as 2wd and the other one is on it's 4th front axle.

Yes, Sparkles is the 96 XJ.

Later full size Wagoneers/Cherokees have a driver side drop front axle, but you would still have to modify the truck to use leaf springs, or the axle to use the coil sprung 4 link setup our trucks use. And they still have the 6 lug bolt pattern. That applies to pretty much any front axle unless it comes out of a MJ, XJ, ZJ ot TJ. Not full size, but good axles that are around the same width for the rear and leaf sprung so easy to modify are Dana 44 out of an MJ, XJ or TJ (were they optional on YJs?), Chrysler 8.25" out of XJs, especially the 29 spline ones from late 96 on, possibly KJ 8.25" (disc brakes), Ford Explorer 8.8 (~1" narrower, newer ones have disc brakes) and Isuzu Trooper Dana 44 (but have 6 lug axles). Pretty much anything full size out there with the exception of the Jeeps will have axles in the 67"-69" range. I believe dually rear axles are narrower but I don't know how much.

Again, I hate to disagree but will do so anyway: 31x10.50 on a stock Comanche, yes. On a stock Cherokee, no. I installed a set of 31x10.50 tires on Sparkles' stock wheels before she had any lift about a year ago. At rest it was fine, but even the tiniest bump in the road at speed caused the rear tires to make contact with the front edge of the fender flares. Comanches shouldn't have this problem because the rear wheel opening is larger and the wheel sits in further. She now happily sports 265/75R16 (32x10.50) on KJ rims with ~4" lift.

My friend's 71 (or 68?) Chevy pickup truck has a straight 6.

The sensors are the same between similar years 2.5 and 4.0. They are also available new from auto parts stores for less than $20. Don't know if there's a difference between Renix/Chrysler (HO). You need the oil pressure one, which is located more or less next to the oil filter as well as the coolant temp one which is at the driver side rear corner of the head, next to the valve cover (has a single wire going to it). Fuel gauge obviously won't need a new one and volt meter is driven directly by supplied power. Tachometer signal is also always supplied to the cluster whether the cluster has a tachometer or not, so nothing extra is needed for that.

Lots of things you can do with them, but if you're planning to put them under your MJ you'd need a different transfer case because the pumpkin on the front axle is on the wrong side.

They were available in any year, but you need to get one similar year to your vehicle for it to work correctly.

Cherokee/Comanche axles are in the 60-61 inch range. I have a D44 rear out of a 79 F100 you can have for $100, but it's 67" wide.