mvusse

Easiest way to get the parts to turn an AX4 into an AX5 would be to get an AX5. But then why not swap the entire AX5 into the truck? You will need the 5th gear shift rail, gears, bearings shift collar and synchro. Also a different reverse shift rail, detent spring and ball (plus possibly other ones between rails, can't remember) and I think also the shift bracket. I just dismantled a partially good AX4 and a partially good AX5 a couple weeks ago to make one good AX5. Put the 5th gear shift collar on backwards so it just barely engages and pops out when coasting, but I've had enough to last me a while. Maybe next year some time I will feel like taking it out again to fix that. But that was my first time working on a manual transmission and there were too many parts for me to have remembered everything.

What are you going to do about the parking brake?

When I picked up my van in Canada I towed the Purple People Eater home on a dolly. Disconnected the rear driveshaft and tossed it in the bed.

Will be doing trail maintenance at Stillwell to prepare for the Jamboree weekend (18/19). Might possibly be able to afford to go labor day weekend.

Few days ago I hosed Wilbur off. Top wasn't too bad, but it took close to two hours before I could see something other than mud underneath. Oh the joys of being buried to the body in river silt. Yesterday I spent an hour chipping clay off the pulleys and installed a new serpentine belt. Pulled chunk of wood from between tire and rim, pumped flat tire back up. Topped off oil, power steering and coolant. Should be good to drive to the shop today for a bumper to bumper check up.

Putting the transfer case in Neutral disconnects the drive line from the transmission, but the front and rear drive shafts are locked together and rotate at the same speed. This isn't a problem when flat towing, because all four wheels are on the ground. If the front wheels are strapped to a tow dolly ... you have a problem. Simplest way to use a dolly is to drop the rear drive shaft. This is true on ~94 and older transfer cases. The newer ones do have a true neutral. Even so, on a tow dolly, disconnecting the rear driveshaft is still the safest option no matter what.

I have bought a set and been very happy with them. For 6 new injectors you're looking at over $300.

Motor mounts were because your engine came out of a YJ. Water pump may have been also. Water pump should go with what year's serpentine belt routing is used as some years use reverse rotation and some do not. Other than that all MJ/XJ water pumps look identical.

Do the ports in the HO head line up to the Renix manifolds?

Your Renix engine has a knock sensor, which the HO does not have, but the block *should* have a boss for it. You might have to drill and tap it, though.

IIRC, JK axles are 4" wider. Their bolt pattern is 5 on 5.

I would take a second generation (93-98) Sterling 10.25 over the 10.5 any day. The 10.5 has weaker pinion bearings and the weird 8 x 170mm metric wheel bolt pattern.

At 3850 pounds they weigh more than a Comanche, so I doubt they float.

Sorry, can't help you there.

The injectors listed for your truck on the precision injectors site are Bosch 4 hole upgraded ones, not the Siemens single hole OEM pieces of poo..

Only vehicle I have had over 200k was my 1972/74/79/80/81 F100 Frankentruck. Currently Sparkles (my daughters' XJ) just turned 190k, Wilbur shows around 137K (actual miles is about 10K higher due to gauge cluster swap), Purple People Eater is at 90K (got it at 79K February of last year, not bad for a 25 year old truck) and my camper van/tow rig is at 205,000 km which is around 128K miles.

I have one laying around you can have for $10. Located in Strasburg, OH, right off I-77 exit 87.

Sounds like the vent hose from the top of the tank to the charcoal canister is plugged.

With 38" to 40" tires you will need something bigger than a D44. The larger D30 u joints are the same ones used in just about every D44 out there and I break those routinely with 35" tires. Neapco Bruteforce and Duralast Gold may go for a few minutes, cold forged Spicer (5-760x) usually goes for a few months and even Chromoly ones from Alloy USA don't last. D60 would be a better choice, but unless you want to deal with cutting it down, using custom length shafts and trying to find enough axle tube to weld control arm brackets and such to you'd be better off to leave it full width which would be 67 or so inches wide, which means you'd need a full width rear axle to match it. If you do want to go with a D44 (but I highly advice against it), you can get a high pinion driver side drop one out of older Fords (that's the route I was going to go before I realized I'd still be breaking joints), but again, it's full width. You could cut it down (and possibly use Wagoneer shafts) to match the rear axle, though. Another popular choice is the Wagoneer or full size J truck, some are driver side drop and they are the same width as MJ axles. I personally know one Cherokee running one and instead of modifying the axle to use the stock 4 link coil suspension they converted the Cherokee to use the axle's leaf spring suspension. Either way you would end up with a different wheel bolt pattern so you'd need to find a rear axle that matches or run adapters. The guy with the Wagoneer 44 in front uses the rear axle out of the same truck (also a D44). The only D44 that's a direct bolt on is a TJ Rubicon front axle. It still uses the same u joints and unit bearings as a D30, though, and the low pinion D44 gears are hardly any stronger than a high pinion 30. On top of that, people think they are worth their weight in gold. They go for $1,000 and up around here. Possibly also rethink your tire size. It costs a LOT of money and fabricating to fit 38" to 40" tires under a Comanche and have the truck work correctly to where you're happy with it. I would say to spend a month or so doing research. Google is your friend, Pirate 4x4 has some great information (but you probably don't want to ask a question there as they would rip you to shreds if you do), and go play in junk yards to see what axles come under the front of mostly full size trucks, especially 3/4 ton and 1 ton ones, what wheel bolt patterns are available, what width they are and what size u joints to use. You would also see the difference between unit bearings and rebuildable hubs as well as king pin vs. ball joints.

If you can show us a picture it would definitely help.

Never heard of anyone using Grand Cherokee weather stripping on Comanches and older Cherokees. 97 and newer Cherokee weather stripping is what most people seem to use.

Fan shrouds are nowhere near alike as the radiator is completely different. The 8.25" has been used from at least 1994 and probably earlier. I have no clue what decided if a Cherokee got a D35 or an 8.25" because I have even seen 4 cylinder ones with the 8.25". On the older ones the D35 was the default axle with an optional D44 with the towing package or ordered separately as a "heavy duty rear axle". Or with the MT package on Comanches. ABS may possibly have been the deciding factor, I never paid attention to that detail in Pull-a-Part.

One 87 Comanche, one 96 Cherokee, one 94 Cherokee. ALL had metal clips, but with a flexible plastic cover around them. Two of the three sets have been removed without issues, have not had a reason to remove the 3rd set.

DEAL!

Got it almost hopelessly buried in play-dough consistency mud. Tried to winch myself out but fried the battery. Someone else tried but he ended up[ overheating his engine. Third guy melted his battery terminal completely away, but after 2 1/2 hours stuck and lots of digging with 3 shovels my girlfriend got it out with my own winch and a snatch block. Then when I started it to back it off the trailer at home the serpentine belt instantly shredded.