james750

A lot of my friends didn't believe me when I told them that Jeep made a truck or a Comanche for that matter, they thought I had fabbed my MJ up out of a cherokee and a Dakota, and that I must be an amazing fabricator. :rotf:

:doh: Now I feel dumb, as I should. I assumed that the 4.0 was new enough of a motor to have OHC.

the timing chain runs the cam which runs down the head to open the valves, it would need to come off to do a head gasket, I did a head gasket yesterday at work, not on a 4.0, but it should be the same.

Haven't done a 4.0L headgasket yet but it looks like it should be a fairly easy job to complete because of all of the space around the head and motor. Probably a weekend job for someone that hasn't done a timing chain and head gasket job before. If it were me, I would replace the chain at the same time since it has to come out for the head to come off anyway.

Anyone have a service manual and/or ETM for a 4.0L MJ that they could email me in pdf. or similar format? Just looking for something to put into the computer library for easy work on the MJ. Thanks, James

Are you doing just a stroker, or are you boring out the block as well? Just a big bore will give you about the same results as just a stroker kit would, so both boring out the motor and stroking it would definitely be the best for torque and HP gain because you would get the most displacement out of the engine.

They can't change the title unless you transfer the ownership over to them, at least thats how it works in CO, my truck was totaled out about a year ago, when I was in the middle of a chain reaction similar to yours. They totaled my truck out at 2800, I bought the truck back for 400, and fixed the truck for 250 and 500 for my JCR bumper, I had a Warrior front bumper on the truck that I liked the looks of but it couldn't handle a winch and was severely damaged in the crash, although I think the bumper took a majority of the blow and saved the frame of the truck, The title is still clean. It was after I lifted the truck and my rear bumper went through the windshield of the car that hit me (man that had to be scary for him) and the windshield was torn out at my bumper height and the bumper was sitting into his door frames, the only front end damage was from where his front right fender hit the guard rail after he rebounded from hitting my truck, it was an 07 impala that hit me after skidding over 60 ft, he shoved me into 2 cars in front of me. Moral of the story, usually you can come out ahead in these things if you can do the repair work yourself, but you will have to deal with the accident headaches and injuries as well as legal ramifications at the same time, it can definitely be frustrating, but it will pay off both for your well being and your trucks repair to do all of this right.

One of my buddies put a waggy XJ grill onto an MJ a while back. It actually looked pretty nice, but just not my style. There is no reason to cut the front headlight and turn signalharness, IIRC he said it uses the same plug on the drivers side by the airbox non-waggy XJs/MJ's used (except for the 97+ XJ's that had the different harness/plug). It should be plug and play. Even if it is not, I would suggest removing the wires from your old harness and transfering them to the new harness before cutting to avoid the ugly rats nest of crimped/soldered connections.

I don't understand people sometimes. :shake: I have a round trip commute of 80 miles. I couldn't stand watching the miles ticking up on my MJ and was spending a lot more than I needed to on gas. Instead of going out and trading in to get a new car I found a 91 Accord with 268000 miles on it, with a new clutch, new plugs, cap and rotor, and a new exhaust system. No problems with it whatsoever. I did a compression test and it was within 3 psi of a new engine. I paid 1300 for it and still have the MJ for my weekend wheeler/snow driver. I get the fuel savings, pay less for insurance on both vehicles than I would on one new car, don't have a car payment, and the Accord is extremely reliable and is in next to new condition. Why buy new? I would never EVER trade in my MJ for a new car, especially under the CARS program knowing the fate of my truck. I also will never buy new, there is no reason to. As long as you do your research before buying, used car will be just as reliable as a new car.

Yeah, but I have only been at this dealership for a month now, so I am pretty low on the totem pole so to speak. I need this job right now, so I can't really afford to refuse anything. So far the used car guy hasn't had to disable any of them yet either (but he does drain the oil out), so maybe they are having the shaggers doing the disabling at our dealership. :dunno:

Yeah, a supercharger will save on gas, right. :clapping: :rotfl2: Putting more air and gas into each cylinder will save gas apparently.

It was on the news that the parts companies aren't making much money doing this either because the engine/trans is 40% of the parts profit off of the vehicle. I hope that this news gets around and they stop the meaningless destruction of these engines. I understand that they do not want people buying the used cars because then they aren't buying new and benefiting the auto manufacturers. But why can't they donate these cars to a good cause? Then they are at least helping people instead of being destroyed. This will not make a dent on the environmental side of things either so it is pretty pointless all around. At our dealership we have lots of XJ's and even a 5.9L ZJ on the clunker line. Its VERY sad to see all of this, and I have to look at it every day I go to work. As of yet I haven't had to destroy any of them thankfully.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13435&hilit=Dinner%3F It looks like Sams creation, only worse!

Resetting the odometer on the earlier tachs is surprisingly easy. Three screws and a c clip with the cluster out basically.

There are actually 2 holes pretty far back on the frame (past the sway bar a little ways) that are designed for the factory plow and tow hook brackets. These are what most of the reputable aftermarket bumpers use to make it a good tow point. Also, since they are along the way, many of the aftermarket winch/offroad bumpers use the 3 steering box bolts on the Drivers side to tie it in more as well; but the factory brackets do not tie into the steering box bolts, and the steering box tie in might be a little bit overkill, but that's good for an offroad recovery point.

Ive been pretty happy with UPS and USPS with all of my shipping needs, but then again, I rarely ship anything. Haven't tried Fedex.

Will the animals actually notice a 1 hour feeding time difference? Seems to me that 1 hour wouldn't be that big of a deal but I am not a farmer so...

But even then he stays an addict unless he has issues with the whole Comanche spelling thing. :D

Don't put brake cleaner on that fuse box! It can damage it just as the brake fluid can damage it. try to wipe it off the best you can and if you must use cleaner then spray it on a rag and just dab it on carefully.

The 8.25 can be a decent axle with the 29 spline. It is very comparable with the 44 with the 29 spline, but with the 27 spline, it is more comparable with the 35. the swap was more than likely done at the same time as the SOA was done. I would guess that if someone was going to do the swap they would do it with a 29 spline rather than a 27 spline so that they got the upgrade out of it. Not sure if you know or not, but what axle shafts are you running in that Dana 30 and 8.25? I have a fairly similar axle setup to yours except that I have put a non-disconnect Dana 30 in for the larger ujoints, and I want to run the larger tires, but I need to upgrade axles to handle the large tires like you have.