james750

I'd like these as well, but I would need to know what the final product would be before I commit as that is a lot of doe for me to drop right now, I would also like the bed protection/corner guards built in.

Looking at a SUPER 30 setup, but I want an E-Locker instead of an ARB. My question is, If I were to get this and this would they work together (ie, would these shafts go into this carrier), and give me basically a SUPER 30 setup? Also, would a setup like this be comparable to a dana 44, or what could it be compared to strength wise?

Looking into the WJ brake booster swap. Is there was a way to swap pedal rods from one booster to the other myself to eliminate the hassle of grinding down a new pedal rod and dealing with the higher pedal?

I found the carpet piece in a junkyard MJ.

I vote throwout bearing...

Take it easy now.

No, 4WD implies that it has wheels. A horse has not any wheels.

Yeah, I'm going to call a buddy of mine that is in the autobody industry and hopefully he can give me some suggestions. I still haven't gotten any responses from the 4 places I emailed a few weeks ago.

I think I'm going to leave the headrests alone, the vinyl and padding in those are fine. The most important parts are the center sections and the drivers side padding.

I'll get some pictures of before and after for sure, and hopefully some during the process, I was expecting this to come out to 300+ to get the bench reupholstered so 150 isn't bad at all.

your pretty local, any places you would recommend? We need to go wheeling sometime!

That's the answer I thought I would come to, and what I was leaning to. I would like to get a fairly heavy duty and easy to clean fabric in the main seat and back portion of the cover, I am not sure if an entirely new cover would have to be fabricated, or if that part can be reworked to a new fabric from the old crappy vinyl. I have sent out a few emails for quotes, but haven't gotten any answers yet, its been over a week. :( $125 is actually less than I thought it would cost, so that might be good news for this project, thanks for the link hornbrod! :D What you had done is exactly what I want to get, except I want a more heavy duty fabric in the center sections of my seat.

First, it is difficult to find an MJ in a junkyard around here, Ive seen about 8-9 in my last two years of scavenging. Second, all of these benches are still 20 years old, and will be worn in similar ways to mine. I also need to keep the headrests that my current bench has, which was only offered in 90+ models, this makes it harder to find compatible seats, I don't want my head going through the rear window. The best looking and most comfortable option is to restore my original setup to be like new.

I've pretty much decided that I want to keep my bench seat. But it has a ripped cover and the foam on the drivers side has gone south with no intention of return to say the least. Is there any place where I can get a new cover and foam for the MJ bench seats? I would like to get a cloth cover because my vinyl cover is no fun with no a/c in the summer. If I can't get the parts to do this myself, how much should I expect an upholstery shop to charge to reupholster the seat?

That doesn't mean its engaged. This is because with the transmission in neutral and the clutch out, all of the gears in the transmission still mesh and spin, riding on bearings on the output shaft, in order to put power to the ground, a collar with "dog teeth" on it, engage into the side of the gear, and connect it to the output shaft. If there is not enough resistance to hold the output shaft in place (IE, driveshaft installed, wheels on ground, the tires will put enough pressure against the input shaft to hold it in place). Ive had cars at work (I'm a Honda technician) that even spin the tires in neutral when they are off the ground, but as soon as the tires touch the ground, there is enough resistance to stop the tires from spinning, and the bearings allow the output shaft and the gears to spin at different speeds. This is hard to understand with me just writing it out. Bottom line, install your driveshaft, the problem (more of a non-problem) will be gone! Had we known that you were finding these results with the drive shaft disconnected, we could have solved this much quicker. This reading gives a good understanding of how manual transmissions work: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm

Yes it is.

Its a nonstop butter commercial.

I am looking into a WJ brake booster swap. On the Master cylinder, it needs bubble flares. I am familiar with double flares, and how to make them. My understanding is that a bubble flare results from only performing the first step in a double flare, and not folding the "bubble" down into the second flare. Is this correct? Or do I need a separate tool to make a bubble flare?

All I have to say is, WTF!

The easiest way I see to handle the wiring is to get a new front end wiring harness, and the connector that it connects to. Then, take apart the old connector and plug all the wires into the new connector.

Would it be beneficial to get one of the larger pill shaped bottles if I have a smaller ball shaped bottle? It seems to me that having more reserve vac might keep my HVAC controls running longer up the mountain passes.

Yeah, freezing up is one of my problems now. Usually I fill up 3-4 trucks at the end of each run. I can fill my tires decently quickly, but the others are SLOW.

Gotcha. Thanks for answering my noob questions, I don't know much when it comes to air and CO2.

If I were to use a 3/8ths hose, and 1/4'' quick couplers, would that work? If not, where would I go to get a 3/8ths quick coupler?

Just curious how to order according to gear ratio's. I have 4.10 gearing and want an E-locker for my Dana 30. Will a 3.73 and up locker work with a ring gear for a 4.10 carrier? Here is what I am looking at http://completeoffroad.com/i-124854-eaton-e-locker-3-73-up-27-spline-eat19818.html