james750

Aussie's are a snap to install if you don't have to remove the carrier. My 8.25 install took me less than an hour start to finish. They say that it is difficult to install the passenger side c clip and you need to make a special tool out of a coat hanger, I just used a pocket screwdriver to push the c clip down the channel into the shaft, 5 seconds and no messing with making/using a "special" tool.

I like those bed sliders. I'm going to have to make some. I would want to run some rubber or something underneath the steel to protect against water getting in between there and rusting, or is that not a concern with a setup like this?

I need replacement outer window wipes for mine as well, but can't justify dropping $100 on them for what they are.

I have been looking to upgrade the regulator that came on my MOR CO2 tank. The original regulator is a 60 PSI and is pretty slow for filling up tires and doesn't have the oomph to run air tools on the trail. My dad dropped the regulator and broke the tank gauge last week so now is a good time to upgrade. I have been looking at this: http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=JO300-K4H6BC&Category_Code=HPREG I think that this setup would give me enough pressure for my applications, but do you think that it would give enough flow? Any other regulator recommendations? I want to keep the gauges if possible because its nice to know how much is left in the tank and exactly how much pressure is being put into the hose.

I found one of the broken off pieces of bolt from a year ago when I installed this bumper. They are 10mm with a 1.5 thread pitch. I got 10.9 grade bolts as well as grade 8 SAE bolts to replace the craptastic 8.8 grade metric hardware I have been using for the last year. The reason for this whole bolt issue was that about a year ago the front of my truck was hit, all 6 front bumper bolts sheared off (thank god that those gave rather than the frame), I lost all 4 of the front factory welded nuts, but fortunately the nuts in the frame rail didn't break free, after a year of running a JCR prerunner bumper with only the front 2 mounting bolts held on with 8.8 hardware as well as the tie in brackets (I know, bad idea), I finally got everything upgraded. Now I won't cringe every time that I am recovering a Jeep wondering if the bumper will hang on. :D

Front Bumper bolts, 10mm with a 1.5 thread pitch.

Yeah, they are 10mm, but I'm not sure what the thread pitch is either... :hmm:

Wasn't in the DIY bolt thread...

My 90 had metric. Do you know which size the metric was?

What is the size/thread pitch of the factory bumper bolts? I need to replace the bolts that have the welded nut inside the frame.

No. Not related to using 4WD. But unless you have converted, you have the "closed" cooling system. Those are VERY difficult to get all the air out of after working on the cooling system. One of the symptoms of not enough coolant is no heat. It seems contradictory that it would overheat yet not generate heat, but when the coolant level is low, nothing gets to the heater core. The engine can overheat, but you'll have no heat. Do a search on "burping" the system. It's only difficult if you don't either drill a small hole in the top of your aftermarket thermostat or get a Dealership thermostat with a bleed valve in the top. I installed a dealership thermostat in my MJ on Monday, and I had no problems getting air out. ;) For those of you that read my thread on heater hose replacement, you would know that air in the system was the least of my problems! :rotf:

there may also be air trapped in the top of the engine, you need to either get a thermostat with a bleeder in the top of it (preferred method), or bleed it by parking on a hill and loosening the sending unit.

On craigslist... http://cosprings.craigslist.org/pts/1480665211.html

Thanks for the tips guys. Man, last night was a rough night for working on the MJ. It needed a new thermostat. When I pulled the heater hose it cracked up the side. I ended up using an angle grinder to cut the crimp, then when installing the thermostat housing, the housing cracked and broke, I went into town and got a replacement. At this point, I am rather frustrated with this job; I then went to install the new housing, and the bottom bolt dropped into the inside edge of the water pump pulley :headpop: . I could not get to the bolt with a magnet or my fingers, I decided to bump the starter a little to throw the bolt out. This is the first time the truck has EVER started with less than 1 revolution of the engine, throwing all the coolant out of the front outlet of the motor :fs1: . I should have pulled a coil wire but I thought that there was no way it would start with only a little pulse of the starter. I then found a new bolt to use and bolted it back together. :chillin: Just had to vent a little, I will step down now.

How do you disconnect the heater hose on the side that has the crimped connection?

Your CAT is probably pretty clogged up after having enough gas run through it to come out the tailpipe. Plan on that being a soon to replace list.

Thanks for clarifying that. Right now the funds are not available to do both a box and a pump, is there any pumps out there that will get the job done, but without being powerful enough to require replacing the steering box?

Thanks for the link Hornbrod. :thumbsup: Do I need to run one of there gear boxes as well in order to use the pump or can I use my factory box for now?

Does anybody on here know of a company that sells a power steering pump with a higher flow rate? I am looking for something that can handle the load of larger tires and a locked front axle.

Yeah, I don't have any spares right now so the old shafts will serve that duty. EDIT: Anyone know of any other company that sells the Ten factory axles for the D30?

I'm thinking I am going to get some of these to go along with it. :brows:

They were slightly bigger than an inch, but since my digital calipers are missing, I had to get close with a tape measure. I guess that I will need to upgrade my axle shafts. Thanks for the help! -James

The bearing caps have a diameter of 1''. What should the diameter of the different ujoints be?

I have a 95 XJ dana 30 in the front of the MJ. I wanted to know if this model would have the larger 5-297X ujoints?

Yeah, I mounted it a few days after you gave them to me, I only needed one of the mounts because the XJ hatch strut I used had a good mount already on the other side. I showed it to my dad, and now he wants me to install the other one on his XJ! I plan on doing that during its next oil change. Thanks again for the mounts! :thumbsup: