james750

this is the model HT 136

What was the rest of the joke, I missed it? :D Seriously, could you send it to me in a PM Mini Beast? Someone? The fun police are out in full force today.

Private Messages, they are there for a reason, why make something like this public? Please read rule 6 of the Classifieds.

I did SOA on a 2" lift with an 8.25 swap and got over 10 inches. It is actually not a good thing because I was counting on it going to about 6" so now my 5.5" front looks ridiculous with a 10" rear. But I can't really level it out by raising the front unless I go to long arms, and I am not going to lower the rear because it gets old dragging the bumper of the truck on every single rock with the LWB. So for me, it will stay until I have money for longarms and 9" springs and the other complications with lifting a truck that high. I think that the results of an SOA vary based on how springs are worn and what type of spring you have as well as things like an axle swap being factored into an SOA as SOA time is the best time to do an axle swap.

I have a clutch that has only 10,000 miles on it in my truck. I did not install the clutch or Trans. The clutch disengages just off from the top of the pedal on the truck. The free is normal on it but the disengagement is right below the free play on the pedal. I do 4x4 the truck but I can't see the clutch being worn out after only 10,000 miles. Any ideas on how to fix? I don't think that there is any adjustments with the hydraulic clutch but correct me if I am wrong (I hope I am wrong). Is there an inspection plate that I could pull to check clutch wear? Also, there could be a very minor clutch fluid leak. I have to fill it up about 1/2" in the reservoir about once every oil change (about from half way from above the min to the max line to the max line). But I don't know if it could be from the slave cyl extending at a more rapid rate than normal that could be causing this?

Throttle position sensor is what I would check if it happens for just a moment after pressing on the throttle which is what it sounds like based on the fact that it is happening on acceleration from a stop. Check adjustment for sure and if its real bad replace it.

Tail light is a little upside down.

To answer your question about the Long arms. No, not all long arms are built equal. IMO, the TNT y-link setup is the best there is, I like this setup because it has the upper arms incorporated into the lower bent arm but it has a joint at the point where the upper arm attaches to the lower arm which allows more flex because it does not bind up with the attached upper and lower arms that some setups have such as IRO's setup. However, IRO's setup is still better than a CA drop because they only have the incorporated upper arm on one side (drive side) and there is a angled bracket that allows for upper arm movement since there are no separate joints from the lower arm. Because the passenger side upper arm is dropped it is kind of a tri-link, but not so much because of the attached drive side arm. Rock Krawler also has a good try link long arm setup. The seem to have one of the less costly long arm kits that is a true tri-link with three separate arms (two lowers and an upper). The thing that I don't like about the Rock Krawler kit is that it does not incorporate a crossmember into the arm mount like many of the other kits do. Not a huge deal as the factory unit is OK but it is nice to be able to add that extra strength/protection at the same time as you are doing the long arms.

I am not pissed off! I just read that hairy pile of crap that RRO feeds us in the latest post by monkey boy. The first paragraph along with the second are the biggest LIES of all on the net. "The common misconception we are addressing here, is that long (control) arm kits are the best fix for front axle mounting on a lifted Jeep. Wrong! While longer control arms can help with the castor alignment setting, they do nothing to help with the ride quality and tracking of the Jeep. '' Here is another part of RRO's statement that does not have any truth to it that bothers me. Longer control arms help caster, CA angle, and pinion angle. THEY ARE WITHOUT A DOUBT THE BEST WAY TO "FIX FRONT AXLE MOUNTING ON A LIFTED JEEP". "Misinformation is perhaps the most common item found on the internet today. Fine if its about celebrity gossip... not so good if you are researching and spending money on parts for your baby... your JEEP!" THEN STOP FEEDING UNEDUCATED PEEPS THE MISINFORMATION DAMNIT!!! :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: I have come to the decision that RRO is trying to pull in the uneducated people that are new to offroading and vehicle modification as their customers. I can't see any knowledegable persons that would by from them after seeing the flat out lies that their site is filled with. @GoBlazers, your absolutely right, this thread is ridiculous, only one person here is defending RRO, and they have no credeble knowledge or sources to back their claims, only more of the BS that RRO feeds its potential customers. I will step down now...

It is not confusing, it was not even a debate until now!, Ford and Chevy both offer steaming piles of crap these days so I guess in that sense it does relate to a drop bracket but Longarms vs. Drop brackets is more like Dodge Trucks vs. Hyundai's NOBODY that knows the $#!& about suspensions will say that drop brackets are better than long arm. Drop Brackets A) Eliminate Clearance which is already reduced by the LCA bracket B)Are the cheapo way to lift a vehicle high that works but not too well C) Because the arm is longer, Height variances between lifts from things like a unsettled or worn spring do not affect the angles of the arms as much as they would with a drop bracket D) Long arms will not affect the pinion angle as much as short arms will when the vehicle is flexed E) Less wear on the springs/shocks with long arms. I do not have Long arms or drop brackets on my truck, I just can't afford it at this time. I do however have short arms that do deliver a crappy ride because of the rough angle but I will take that over the worse clearance delivered by the drop brackets and will upgrade to long arms and do the job right when I can afford it. RRO claiming that their drop brackets are better than longarms is a flaming pile of bull$#!& sitting on your doorstep waiting for you to step in it. Its another example of RRO either being completely ignorant about off road products and just trying to make a quick sale, or they are lying to their customers to try and turn a quick buck on those that have little to no knowledge on suspension systems. This is why RRO is unacceptable.

:shake: You get what you pay for comes to mind here. It is not even a matter of opinion at this point, Longarms do perform better than drop brackets in any and all aspects from on road to off road performance. Drop brackets do not have as much flex, do not ride as well on the road, lower your ground clearance, and are considered a cheap fix by most people. I would take short arms with no drop brackets over drop brackets because of the clearance issues.

There ain't no way in hell your gonna send the energy we are talking about into your springs unless you are going in reverse! :rotfl2: Coils/Shocks only absorb upward and downward force. We aren't talking about upward force/travel here, we are talking about forces trying to shove your axle backwards into your frame, the forces that the control arms take and avoid. If there weren't these forces there would be no reason for control arms. Think of it this way, what would happen if you didn't have control arms in your truck and you decided to drive it forward? The axle would be shoved backwards off the springs. This is the force that the frame must absorb, if the control arms are pushing upwards, that force has about 3 inches of frame rail to diffuse, the rest of the force is transferred to the driver compartment; if these forces have the entire 100" or so frame (length depending on LWB or SWB, but according to RRO it is the same) so there is very little that is transferred to the driver compartment. Drop brackets will push the force both upward and back into the frame leading to a result between a short arm and long arm. Its not rocket science. It should be obvious that there is more than just upward and downward force in a suspension system. There is up, down, side to side, and back/forward forces to deal with. and because coil springs are flimsy and uncontrollable unlike leaf springs, we must use CONTROL arms to CONTROL the forces of the road against the axle. Just in case you were wondering, the track bar controls the side to side forces of the axle. No, their customer service is not fine, they have no idea what they are talking about, Customer Service is supposed to be knowledgeable on their own products, and know to a point the vehicles that they are trying to sell parts for.

The drop brackets do help on road driving, but not as much as long arms will. Long arms give a better angle just as the drop brackets do but with the longarms you can have a higher lift with less affect on the angle of the arms, so that when you hit bumps your truck isn't pushing upward on the control arms, instead of strait forward (truck trying to run over its axle is the best way I can describe it). Drop brackets are a cheap solution to avoiding longarms. Yes, they are better than just short arms alone. No, they are not as good as long arms. Longarms also allow for much more flex both upward and downward than any short arm setup. Most people even need limiting straps with longarms because it will flex too much and the coil will pop out or the shock will get damaged due to being too far extended. Short arms limit flex because once it gets to to steep of an angle, the lower arms will hit the shock bracket and stop moving. Rocky road calls their kit complete but it isn't. So almost any other kit will be more expensive but will also be more complete. As for the price, we were talking about RRO and MOR's Bolt on SOA setup compared to doing SOA the right way. It is in fact cheaper, stronger, and better to do an SOA setup the right way. We aren't trying to be a$$holes about it either. Just trying to clarify some ignorance with brutal honesty. As with all brutal honesty, it can sometimes be more brutal than honest.

:rotfl2: Long arm gives WAY better on road driving characteristics as well as offroad improvements over short arms. With this, it all gets down to cost. IMO, if your gonna do it, do it right the first time. I'm done with discussing this. If your happy with it, great. But I will not recommend it under any circumstances because it is cheaper/better to do it right. That, and I have heard almost (your the only exception) nothing good about Rocky Road Outfitters and their customer service/knowledge.

The axle needs to be rolled up more than a little. You are looking for a pinion angle of 1 degree when sitting on flat ground with all the weight under the truck, otherwise when the truck flexes it could bind up the joints, With less than a 1 degree angle you risk getting end galling because the joint caps will not be moving and the needle bearings will cause the galling. Even if your pinion angle is ok, it is more money to put a bolt on kit on than doing it the right way to get SOA by having someone weld on perches. When I look at the bolt on kit, it just looks flimsy and poorly constructed. With the welded on perches you also gain more clearance by not having anything hanging down under the axle

With a bolt on SOA you can't get the right pinion angle to fit the lift, which can lead to ujoint end galling (unlikely when lifted, but caused if ujoint is at too little of an angle), driveline vibes from extreme ujoint angles. other than that it is just not as sturdy as a welded on perch. RRO lifts do not have longer Lower control arms, or upper control arms in their kit, which are needed to lift the truck correctly . I have also heard that RRO has horrible customer service and I can account that they have little knowledge about the parts they are selling. About a year ago before MOR and JCR had Rock Sliders I asked if they had sliders for both LWB and SWB trucks since their site didn't say and their picture had a SWB truck. Their response to me was that the LWB and SWB had the same Wheelbase and Frame so they would both bolt up the same. They went on to tell me that the only difference between a LWB and SWB truck was the bed length past the wheel wells. :nuts: This statement from them proved to me that they lacked knowledge on products they were selling and instead of looking up the proper information or giving me a strait forward answer they gave me information that they thought I would believe, not knowing that I know the basics on MJ's.

Check your grounds.

DON'T BUY ANYTHING FROM RRO! If you do a search on this forum you will find out many reasons for this particularly with their lift kits. Bolt on SOA is a bad idea considering how easy it is to weld on perches to the top of the axle the right way.

I fell in love with Jeeps when I was really little and my mom had a 92 red XJ. I fell in love with MJ's when I was about 6 and I saw an MJ being used as a service truck. I thought it was pretty cool that there was a version of the Cherokee made into a truck. I wanted one ever since, and I bought one when I was 15.

Is it just me, or is there A LOT of similarities between May's and MJ's death? He died in a rental home, at age 50, and was on pain meds, and he died the same week. Must be a strange coincidence.

No way to be for sure until after the autopsy, but I think it is probably related to the rough plane landing. I think that Billy Mays suffered a Subdural Hematoma after the heavy objects struck him on the head, over several hours his brain was probably bleeding and swelling inside his head until his brain could no longer take it. It is a sad story, and he will be missed. Not only has it been a bad week for the entertainment biz, its been a bad week for 50yo's in the entertainment biz.

I have a dog that was neutered late (10 mos old) and he doesn't realize that his dog junk is gone. He'll spend all day mounting our female dog and pillows, he gets REALLY into it, its weird. I guess that some dogs don't realize it or maybe it has to do with how late they are neutered.

I love my rubber floor. It has saved the Floor pans in the MJ without a doubt. I would recommend going this route. I have heard that the ones from JCWhitney have some minor fitment issues, particularly where the floor pan side of the seat bracket pokes up and the carpet/rubber needs to be contoured to fit the bracket. IMO carpet is a downgrade from the rubber because of the protection it provides against moisture getting to the floor pans and the ease of cleaning the floor after dirt/mud gets tracked in.

Do you need to pull the carrier. I thought that you could just pull the spiders out with it in the truck by pulling the axle shafts out a bit and then removing the pins. EDIT: I'm being stupid, I'm thinking of for the rear axle. :doh:

Just armor the hell out of it so that the garage door doesn't damage the MJ.