james750

My guess is CPS. On another note, how many cranks does it usually take to start? My MJ usually takes 5-7. My white 97 XJ takes 2-3 and my blue 97 XJ takes 15-20.

probably have a bad sending unit. IIRC it is a part of the fuel pump.

I would not install the splash shield. Rather, I would get a real skid to go in its place to protect that thing. I thought that MJ's came with metal tanks? :dunno: Thats what mine has (and I have the factory skid under that) even though the XJs have plastic tanks.

I just put one in mine last weekend, so far I am very happy with it. If you have found one GET IT!!! I ended up only finding a 27 spline, then getting new shafts/gears (4.10s, so I had to get new front gears too) and having a buddy regear them and help out with the install. So far, it has been way worth it. I love the 4.10 gears but now I need to get some 33's because its a little too much gear for my 28's on the highway (3000 rpm at 65 in 5th) but the acceleration is better than stock. Now is a good time to go SOA while you have the spring perches off of it anyway. As for shocks with SOA I went with Monroe 31000 that I got from http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/MJRearShock.htm

Tie rod was disconnected. It was only lifting on the mount on the knuckle for the tie rod. Your idea is great though, I'll use that next time.

WOW, Looks like no details were left out! From what I see, it has a ZJ or WJ (maybe?) steering wheel and guage cluster. The tailgate looks impressive. Double fuel tanks are very cool and had to take some work, I want a second tank but decided it would just be something to get hung up on while offroad. The extended plastic bumper end caps had to take quite a bit of work. Bench seat is pretty cool, I'd like to see if headrests were added or if it is just a bracket modified XJ bench, but I doubt it as the rest of the truck is cherry. I wouldn't be too hesitant about the frame splicing as long as its done right, I just want to know why the did that rather than just put the new body panels on. Worth more than the bidding is at right now IMO. I would pay up to 12,000 for that if it is in the quality and condition it looks to be in. :chillin: EDIT: I see one careless imperfection, At the back of the cab, on the plastic molding there is a door cutout (place where the molding folds in to allow the door to open) in the molding where there shouldn't be.

Very true, but with the XJ's/ MJ's Ive found that the spring retainer on the axle and bumpstop tower keep the coil spring from going out of control in most cases. I will not use a coil compressor because then your asking for trouble. I would just lower the axle and disconnect the trackbar/control arms to get it far enough down to remove the springs. Anyways, today I had the same problem on my MJ, What I did to fix it, is I used my hi lift to jack up on the tie rod mount on the axle. this would pivot the axle back and fix the pinion angle and let me get my UCA's in.

Jeepco, Pete, The write up is in the DIY section. :thumbsup:

yeah, he is definitely a SUA setup, that doesn't work so well with the Ubolts facing up! :roll:

That would probably have to be either embroidered or screen printed onto the tie. Brent might have an answer for you there since his shirts are screen printed.

How? Why? Please explain. Because if the end caps/needle bearings do not rotate on the joint then they will just sit in one spot all the time. This will wear groves (end galling) into the joint and cause the bearings to get caught up when the bearings finally do need to move when flexing or when the rear axle is pushed up causing a greater angle than zero. It does not need to be much of an angle at all, just enough so that the bearings keep moving. EDIT:Automan beat me to it

I agree that keeping the axle side pinion angle at zero will stop driveline vibrations, but if it is at zero there will be end galling problems as well as reduced u joint life.

And who had an IRO tri link kit for 300? I have seen the 3 link on a ZJ do pretty well... :dunno: But I do think it would get better articulation with a joint added to that upper arm.

I know that there is a company that makes some custom neoprene covers that would fit perfect with the bench notch but IIRC they cost more than reupholstering the seat. Can't find the link at the moment though, try google.

What size tires are you running?

Got some pics of that rear bumper?

I'll wait until I have some help to pull that thing out then!

I want the 242 because it is a DD, and it would be really nice to have that full time 4wd. That being said, would it be safe for me to go pull the case myself today. I've pulled trannies before when I have a hoist and a tranny jack, but I have none of those at my disposal today. I have no idea how heavy the transfer case is and do not have an tranny adapter for my floor jack. could I put some jack stands under the trans, pull the crossmember and then use the jack to support the transfer case while I pull it back and lower it to the ground?

Even with that much lift I don't think that a transfer case drop would be any good, I actually think it would be worse than nothing at all, because the front driveshaft angle will suffer greatly while the rear will be improved. SYE is really the only way IMO, but fortunately it takes a super high lift (I am thinking like 10"+) before MJ's need a SYE because of the ridiculously long wheelbase.

yeah, I reused the stock shock mount/ubolt plate, and from what Ive seen so far, they will give plenty of travel and lots of flex. The shocks are Monroe 31000 series, I actually think they are shorter than stock, but not completely sure, I chose them from this table: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/MJRearShock.htm For the front I am still using my 2" lift shocks until I get my UCA's installed so that I can adjust my caster w/o messing up my pinion angle. I will install the 4.5" long travels after that because with the negative caster I have right now if I got more flex it would ram the DS into my already damaged tcase.

The rear is a little too long, but the front is a little short, but if I adjust my caster a little bit, the problem should be fixed, but I gotta put my adjustable UCAs on first so I don't throw out my pinion angle.

No, I just pulled the linkage off, Mvusse is right, I need to zip tie it up, I forgot about that. Strangely, I haven't noticed any negative change in brake performance, it actually seems a bit better with the SS lines. :dunno:

I've completely done away with the CAD axle, so thats no problem. What years 231 will be a 23 spline? Will a 23 spline 242 bolt on? Will I need to get a new Driveshaft for the 242 to work?

I am running 28" street meats, but am going up to 33"s soon. Ill go down and take a pic but it won't be a great quality pic because it is in the garage and it is dark outside.