james750

Trying to determine the noises coming out of what I am pretty sure is my tcase, i am hearing a clicking at low speeds and some loud low pitch whinning noises at high speeds. If I were to pull my case tomorrow and pull off the tail housing, what should I look for as signs of a bad case? I don't want to disassemble it because IDK anything about its inner workings besides the very basics. If I were to go pull a case from the yards this weekend, what years/engines/tcases of XJ will be compatible with mine. IDK if I have a 21 or 23 spline and don't know what years will have a compatible spline count. :dunno: I'm looking for a 242 for the full time 4wd but will settle for a 231 pretty easily because of the added strength. I have a 90 MJ with a AX15/231. Anyone know which tcases/years/models will be compatible? What spline count do I have? :dunno:

For SOA take out any AAL you have, I didn't and now I have 10" in the back and only 5" in the front. it should give you between 5"-7" with stock leafs.

Get you info right at least, this is supposed to be the freindly and knowledgable comanche club forums. YES they do and have always had thier adjustable front track bar in the kit! :nuts: . Though sold seperate RRO does offer control arm drop brackets and fixed and adjustable lower and adjustable upper control arms. Stay away from RRO kits for valid reasons not for heresay. Do have them check inventory for you before you order if you are in any kind of a deadline rather than order online and assume it's coming the next day. Ok, you got me, they have a track bar. IMO drop brackets are not a good way to get a better control arm angle, unless the rig does not see anything but pavement, they will get hung up on rocks. The "kit" that RRO offers does not include all of the necessary parts needed to lift a truck even though they claim it does, and they try to make it seem like they have the best "kit" in the world on there site. Also, another deceiving product on their site is their rock rails, they are for a short bed, yet they market them for both short and long bed because as they told me when I tried to correct them on this in an email: "Longbeds have the same wheelbase as shortbeds" even though there is a rather large wheelbase difference. Furthermore, IMO if they are going to market a complete suspension kit and want to have the best kit out there, they should include the CA's, that is a needed part to lift a truck properly and it should not be separate! And even if it is not, it should be indicated on the site that control arms are needed to finish it out, the site seems very misleading to me and I almost got sucked into one of their crappy lifts when I was a noob and have seen others get sucked in and hate to see people disappointed because they buy a product that is on the cheap expecting to get the best. Basic rule of thumb, you get what you pay for. :smart: I will step down now.

cool, It shouldn't be too bad then, I will be installing these as soon as I get my new UCA's installed, but to do that I need to get bigger jackstands (the unforeseen side of lifting the truck) and Ill put coil spacers in at the same time.

Problem I am facing is that my long bed cables are too short to reach with the massive lift I got out of my SOA.

What do I have to do to remove my front drivers side shock? I was told that I have to remove my MC to get to the stud. Is this true, or is there another way to get to it with an open end or stubby socket?

I vote for RE front and SOA rear. But beware, SOA can be unpredictable as I learned this weekend, you may end up with a lift anywhere from 5" to 10" (Still not sure what I am gonna do to level this thing out with only 5" in the front!!!)

Also, this has been annoying the crap outta me: When I get my email notifications there is a random space in the middle of a work in the subject title for instance here is my most recent notification subject title: Topic reply notification - "Valve cover differen ces."

Yeah, I use that for my online gaming, but not for using CC while on the couch. EDIT: Also, JF recently got a dancing bacon smiley, when are we gettin one of those??? :rotfl2:

Inner yoke to inner yoke compressed: 24.75" Inner yoke to inner yoke extended: 27.50" All measurements taken on a renix 4.0 mated to a AX-15 and np231 tcase with a d30 front axle. Tomorrow I will have a 97XJ with a AW4 and NP242 out and will take some measurements while its out if I remember. What I needed to know is if the 97 XJ front shaft would fit in to the MJ just so that I could drive it around the block and rule out a bad driveshaft in the truck. based on installed measurements, it should fit, just barely. :yes:

NO, magnets will not attract to aluminum, HO valve covers are aluminum, not steel.

I just pulled mine out today and measured and got what I needed, but thank you very much for the offer! :cheers:

They are new. Everything in the front and rear axles has been replaced with the axle swap I did last weekend. The problem existed before the swap, and continues after the swap, making me think that this has to be in either the front driveshaft or the tcase. Not sure why the sound would not be present with the driveshaft out if it is in the tcase though, unless the sound is resonating down the shaft. :dunno: Really appreciate all the responses guys! Keep them coming. :cheers:

Would a bad chain make the noise with the DS out as well. Thats the part that is throwing me off is that the noise goes away when the DS is out even if I put it in 4wd so that the output is spinning with the DS out.

Determined that it is not the driveshaft slip making the noise. I pulled the driveshaft again today. I noticed that as I turn the front tcase output I can hear the same clunk every few turns. What do you guy's think would be causing this? EDIT: This also seems notable. The clicking goes away past 15mph or so, but once I get up to highway speed a loud noise sets in that is loud enough to overpower the engine. But goes away once I slow down under a certain speed. I don't have this noise with the DS out.

Now that I finished the SOA on my truck it is time to fix some of the unforeseen issues. First one I am going to tackle is the fact that the e brake cables are too short to reach the bed side mount where the two cables meet the actuator and the front cable connects. I', sure that I am not the first person to have a problem with this. What did you other guys do about it. The other problem I have is that my extended SS rear line is still too short! anyone know where I can get an even longer extension rear brake line that will bolt up? Thanks, -James

I have a chryco 8.25, not quite as strong as an 8.8 and no disk brakes, Comanche County had an 8.8. Both of us have an SOA setup so it is not a bolt on mod. You need to cut and reweld the perches, set pinion angle, get longer brake lines, and different shocks.

He found me on my way back from 8.25 axle install this afternoon. I'm surprised at how close you live to me without me knowing all this time! It's nice to finally put some faces to names and to the board usernames. Thanks again for the coil spacers, those are going in tomorrow to try and even out the ride height. You've got a sweet MJ and XJ. If you get a chance can you post up those pics? -James

What is the compressed/extended front driveshaft lengths of a 4.0 AX15/231?

For mine I just got a standard, sliding pin type lock. I mounted it inside the tailgate. Then when I close the top and lock it, nobody can access the inside lock.

I doubt that it is the combination valve. Based on what I have been taught on brakes in school. on the rare instance that the combo valve gets clogged when you compress the piston into the caliper it will be a full brake application to 100% failure in an instant after you pump the pedal a few times during test drive. I've never seen it happen in the 30+ brake jobs I have done so I am not 100% sure on what it will look like. Based on what I am hearing most likely you need to bleed your brakes and if that doesn't fix it look for fluid leaks. I definitely sounds like a problem due to losing fluid or air in your brake lines (Because air is compressable it will compress before pushing your piston out causing you oto need to pump to build up the pressure needed to overcome the air compressing and actually push in the caliper piston).

Mine was made in 10/89 and it has an AX-15 if that helps, though it is a 90 model year so...

Auto or manual? I wouldn't touch an auto with a 10 foot pole unless I knew what I was doing. As for a manual. you will need a press to get the gear sets on the main shaft off. The cluster shaft should be a solid one piece unit.

Pulled the shaft tonight. Does anyone know for sure if this shaft is fixable or will I have to get a different one? Are XJ front shafts the same?

Yep, twisting play in the splines. Anyone know if this is fixable. Is it something I need to fix right away?