james750

I'm looking at running a PS cooler on my truck. If I get barb fittings coming into/out of the cooler and use flex line and hose clamps, will that work, or is there enough pressure on the return side of the pump to blow the hoses off the cooler? I know that there is 1000+ PSI in the exiting side of the pump, but I'm not sure of how much pressure is on the return side after it passes through the box.

One bolt comes from the backside through the intake manifold into the pump, and the another bolt comes through the front from a bracket into the pump. I looked at one of the 97's tonight and on those its a similar pump, but it has long bolts that run all the way through that hole and thread into the intake. I might be able to do the same with this pump and just put a nut on the back side. I'll take some pics of both the 97 and the 90 tomorrow so you can see how the two are different. All in all, I don't think I'll be able to make this pump work the way that it is stock, but I may be able to easily using long bolts to convert it to a 97 style pump bracket/ belt tensioner.

For diag. purposes, try this: unplug your IAC before starting your truck. Fire it up and see if the idle ever comes down. If the idle stays high, plug in the IAC and see if it comes down. If it does. then the IAC is working. For some reason on my truck, the IAC sucks all the way in every time I shut the truck off. This causes the RPM to spike at first at start up until the IAC motor can move out and bring the idle back down. I don't know if all renix 4.0s do this, but if they do, thats what causes the spike in RPMS at initial startup. I know thats what causes my RPM increase.

I'm trying to make a PSC power steering pump work in the MJ right now. The previous owner of this pump modified it to work on a newer XJ, even though its a pump for my 1990. I'm not sure if there is supposed to be threads in the two holes on each side of the pump, or if they've been drilled out. Here are pics of the holes in question.

Cool idea! I'd watch your motor mounts closely though. I've heard of mismatched motor and tranny mounts (ex. Rubber engine mounts, poly trans mounts) blowing each other up since they don't move together since they are made of different materials.

Unfortunately it sounds like the clutches and bands are burned up or worn out.

Somethings not right with those specs. A turbo diesel can get to 60 way faster than 9 seconds. My 91 accord with 300000 miles can beat that.

I can do them in about 1/2 hour per side. The seized up hub comes out of the knuckle very easy if you take an air hammer to the inner side of the unit bearing to rotate it and break it free.

Great point. The harness plug for 96-down XJs and all MJs radios does not include a ground line. The only grounds the radio has are that bolt-on quick disconnect tab ground cable and the shield on the antenna coax. I don't know if a 97-up XJ has a different radio harness pinout but it might. This explains a TON. I have an aftermarket antenna on the truck installed by the PO. Lightly put, it is a hack. I hate those universal parts that the auto stores sell that you have to improvise to make work. I know that my ground through the antenna is shakey at best. I think I''ll try to get a factory antenna for my radio and see what that does to these problems.

I think I need an ETM...

Well, I found an unplugged vac line at the back of the HVAC control, causing the static sound and the HVAC control issues. And then I tried to ignore the problem :rotf:. But I couldn't ignore the new symptom that started last night (right after the clutch line that I installed 3 weeks ago blew up, and I was rev matching to shift and starting in first at every red light :headpop: ), now when I turn on my turn signals, the radio just shuts off, it also would shut off when I hit a bump or a wind gust came up. As soon as the wind gust, bump, or turn signals were shut off/ gone, the radio would come back on without loosing its presets or clock information. I'm going to take the fuse box loose this weekend to check for bad connections/burned insulation AFTER disconnecting the battery as I have to get under there anyway to take the brake booster loose to get the roasted clutch line out.

I just got my sliders Monday, they look really nice, top notch quality as are most if not all things from JCRoffroad. I guess I have the only set for LWB other than the prototype built a year ago for another member on here. Sad to see the support disappear from a great company for these trucks only a year after getting into the game. Looks like MOR is the only company to produce LWB sliders right now, and there design doesn't tie in as well as the JCR ones do/did.

I have a massive water leak on the Passenger side of my truck. its where the radio antenna coax and CB coax exit the cab inside the fender about a foot below the antenna. This is a factory hole, I imagine that from factory there was a grommet that went around the cable, but mine is gone. And I haven't noticed it until now because the truck is usually garaged and out of the elements. I caught on to it when I found about an inch of water on my rubber floor after it rained last night, the under carpet pad is soaked. I want to take care of this before my rust free floorpans bite the dust. What do your trucks have to seal this hole? Any ideas as to what I can do to seal the hole?

It's rare, (IIRC police package only) but yes, some XJ's had bench seats.

Many base model XJ's even with buckets had the mini console that our MJ's with bench seats have. I'd look for one out of an XJ.

Found this while cruising CL earlier. Pretty low miles and it seems clean, still overpriced for a cheap guy like me. :D Upon further inspection, it looks like the valve cover gasket is leaking and traveling down to cause the oil on the trans pan and oil pan. Although it looks like it could be, I highly doubt the rear main is leaking with this low of miles. http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1663375801.html

I've messed with it some more today. It's back to only doing this with the headlights/parking lamps on. I found it will only do this with the HVAC controls in the Off position. I also found out that the hissing noise that I thought was coming from the speakers is actually from the HVAC center vent. Also, only on VENT mode it will blow out the defrost vent, Bi-level, heat and defrost work fine. Maybe an HVAC control unit has bitten the dust?

I've been thinking about that myself, and its about time that I need to upgrade my head unit anyways, as the panasonic unit I have is kind of a POS. Maybe I'll upgrade that and see if the problem is corrected as I can't fine any other problems in the system that would be causing this. You would think that the fuse at the back of the head unit would have fried before it would allow the radio to be damaged. EDIT: Eagle you posted while I was typing this. Yes, I do have an aftermarket radio, it was added by the PO. The truck did not have the sentinel piece in it when I bought it, I added it later. It stays on for much longer than the radio does after i shut the truck off, so this isn't the problem. Also, since it has started doing this with the headlights off as well, that rules this out. 2. I started having some funky turn signal issues about a year ago after I bought the truck, the typical dim turn lights on the dash with the truck on. I replaced the entire front harness with one out of a 94XJ that a year ago had no corrosion or problems upon inspection and I highly doubt that there are any problems now since that was fairly recently. I think that it was just a coincidence that the flasher went out right around the time that the radio issue began, especially since this problem was fixed by swapping the hazard flasher with the turn flasher (now I just need to replace that flasher since it is a known bad flasher now). I appreciate the input, keep it coming! Thanks, James :cheers:

Yeah, I am a technician too, some times things just get overlooked especially when repairs are being done the flat rate way. I usually don't disco the battery on newer cars because they will lose their radio code and sometimes key memory. I didn't even think of this being a problem since I was working on brakes and not anything electrical. Made some progress, I guess, today. It is now doing it whether or not the healights/park lights are on. as far as the radio staying on. I solved the turn signal problem by swapping the hazard flasher with the turn flasher, that flasher must have gone bad. I also am noticing that, only when I start the engine (not sure why) when I shut it off and after the 3 second period where the radio stays on (read, when the radio finally shuts off), the speakers will play a faint white noise for about 10 seconds. I am pretty lost on this one. All of the fuses are good.

The second position of the key is off, unlocked wheel. To get to acc mode you need to turn the key counterclockwise past the lock position, I have to push in on the key and lock cylinder while turning for mine to go into the ACC position.

My truck has a couple problems. When the headlights or parking lamps are on and I turn the truck off, the radio will remain on for about 5 seconds, then it will shut off, with the headlights/parking lamps off, the radio turns off immediately after I turn the key off. Also, again with the parking lamps or headlights on, the turn signals will intermittently flash fast as if there were a bulb that was out, there are no bulbs out and it does it with either left or right turns, it does not do this with the parking lamps and headlights off. I am not entirely sure, but these problems seem to have begun after I installed my brake booster and I accidentally shorted the fuse box to ground with an open end wrench. It blew a dome light fuse, but I haven't seen anything else wrong, I am going to pull all of the fuses out tomorrow and check them. Any ideas?

I get the feeling that they are swamped with orders right now. I ordered some sliders from them about 2 1/2 wees ago and they said today it won't be until next week when they build them. This may take awhile if it happens.

XJ shackles are shorter.

The JCR bumper tie in's incorporate this setup as well, to complete it all you would need is the inside brace.

A couple different ujoints were used in the 30, yours takes the 297x joint. the other joint was probably for a newer 30 with the 760x joint