james750

I'm considering an NP242 swap on the MJ. I know that this transfer case is longer than the 231, but by how much? I'm trying to determine if I'll need a new rear driveshaft to make this work. Since I am running ~7'' lift on a stock driveshaft, the added length may make up for the 1/4'' of extra slip yoke thats hanging out. Also, what would I need to do to make the 4wd indicator lights on the dash work? I know that the 231 uses a vacuum switch and the 242 uses electric, as well as adding another light for the full time mode. Also, does this transfer case (same year, matching input shaft) use the same speedometer gear, or would I need to get a short and/or different tooth gear? Thanks in advance.

while going to

All.

If you have the frames, that's the important part. If you get an early XJ seat (2 door if you want it to tilt) and swap brackets, it will be a relatively pain free operation.

From my experience, on the old MJ master cylinder and booster, I couldn't lock the wheels no matter what unless I was in a panic situation. When you are in a panic stop (ie: suddenly slamming the pedal from the top to the floor) The the pressure going to the wheels will be greater because of several reasons, one is that the rear prop valve will reduce pressure to the rear wheels to make them lock up later and create more system pressure at the front wheels because the rear wheel pressure is limited. Also, when you first slam the pedal down, you have more braking force as there is more vacuum pressure readily available to go towards helping you increase the braking force at the pedal. The same is true in my 91 accord as well. If you want brakes that will lock up the wheels at any time if you mash the pedal down, you need to upgrade boosters, thats really one of the only ways to do this. General rule of thumb, if you have a firm pedal, there isn't air in the system, and none should get in if you don't have pedal fade indicating a leak or bad part.

:idea: I know of a good hobby, building an MJ!

The WJ master and booster swap is so easy, with such a huge benefit, I'm surprised more people haven't done the swap. I think people put too much thought into getting the booster arm end ground down flat. I just took the WJ booster to a disc sander and sanded down the end until it looked like the pictures and had a similar gap to the old booster (I didn't measure), drilled out the hole with step drill, and it worked first try. I've never had any brake light issues, they come on right when the free play is out of the pedal, and turn off every time. Maybe I just got lucky :dunno: , as I had planned on measuring the spacing with a set of calipers, but I couldn't find them and got impatient. :rotf:

WJ master and booster FTW.

It seems that this is on the brink of going off topic. Darren mentioned he has a drinking problem. And everyone has crawled up to discuss how DUI is bad (which I agree with), although Darren never mentioned that he was driving while intoxicated. I see where DUI is related but just because someone has a drinking problem doesn't mean they decide to drive while impaired. Just my 2c. Good luck Darren.

If I'm at a junkyard and need to remove the diff cover on a car that hasn't had the fluid drained, what should I do? I assume that you can't just drain it onto the ground.

He said he was in defrost mode, in our trucks the fan is only off when the mode selector is in the off position, if he was in defrost, then the fan had to be at least on its lowest setting. So it still very well could be the resistor.

Limits the pressure to the rear drum brakes based on the amount of load in the bed of the truck.

And I hate to be ''that guy'' but I have bled the brakes numerous times in my MJ with a rear prop valve without any problems just following the usual bleed procedure, RR, RL, FR, FL (I didn't know of the other bleed procedure before now). I did however use a vacuum bleeder, maybe this allowed the air to be sucked out of the prop valve area since the system was not under pressure?

Personally, I like it. If I had the money and could justify the need for another Jeep, I would buy it. I hate to think that if they produce it, many will be "Blinged out'' replacing the Hummers that are no more.

If both are either vac disco, or both non vac disco, then yes.

My load leveling valve works fine, but ever since the SOA, I never made a new rod to adjust the prop valve and have it just zip tied up in the right position. I might have to make a new rod light what hornbrod has, and fab a new bracket to mount it to on the axle as I am running an 8.25.

I'm going to be putting ZJ disc brakes on my MJ soon, hopefully this will be the last of the brake upgrades I will have to do to the MJ. I currently have a WJ Master cylinder and Booster, and the braking is pretty good, but the parking brake is terrible, and I'd like to improve that as well as the ease of service to the braking system. One question though. I know that disc brakes require more pressure to operate than drum brakes, and I've heard here that the ''proportioning valve'' that is by the master cylinder on MJ's only distributes the fluid and does not actually regulate pressure, and that the pressure is regulated by the load adjusting rear prop valve, is that true, or does both the master cylinder distribution block ( :dunno: ) as well as the rear prop valve limit pressure to the rear brakes?

Do you have any exhaust leaks, a loose or cracked manifold will make a tick that sounds like valve clatter.

Just some cleanup, if you have blowby.

Junkyard...

I suggest that you sell the carcass to someone that can rebuild it, and then not buy another MJ.

There is an idler pulley and a bracket to hold said pulley on non-ac models, If you place the bracket and pulley in place of the compressor, then yes.

Check your fuel pressure. Maybe the pump cannot produce enough fuel pressure at initial key on?

I was careful for this reason when making my post, I have always heard that the changeover year was 1996, but I have never seen a 96 that had a 29 spline, they were all 27 spline, maybe some were 29, and some weren't. 97 definitely had 29 spline though, so that is why I stated 97 in my post.

General rule of thumb is that 97+ XJ's are 29 spline. Only way to be sure is to pull the cover, and count the splines on a shaft. Even if you have a 27 spline, you can replace the spiders and the shafts with 29 spline parts easily.