james750

90% of all Fords are still found on the road today, the other 10% made it home. :yes:

Looking at replacing the plugs in my comanche. What would you guys recommend for brand/type of plug?

I highly suggest getting a booster/master out of a WJ rather than from an XJ. The swap is so much easier, and pedal height will remain exactly the same, no higher than stock, with some added power over the XJ booster. When I did the swap on mine 2 weeks ago, I cut, reshaped, and re-flared the WJ lines to a double flare on the prop valve side. They are too long and are a bubble flare. Also, you wouldn't have to relocate the washer bottle.

I am a tech at a Honda dealership, whether you are looking to buy new or used, I would look into an Accord. The new Accord seem to have very little problems and are VERY comfortable to drive. This is the same for the 03-08 generation of accord as well. I own a 91 accord right now that I purchased with 260000 miles on it in June and it is about to hit the 300000 mile mark. I drive it fairly hard and it has never had any mechanical problems whatsoever, in fact, its been the most reliable car I've ever owned. The accord's made before 2003 seem to be less comfortable, however (but still more comfy than the MJ for DD'ing). The new Accord Crosstour's are available with AWD as well.

Looking to buy some wheel spacers, preferably 1.5'', but I'll consider any length.

My 90 originally came with a old school font gauge cluster with idiot lights and a big gas gauge. I got a full cluster with the old school font (just like the one on that ebay listing, I just like that style better) and the speedo input was the same, no mods needed, just as plug and play so to speak as any other renix gauge cluster.

Yep, that's my rig.

I redid mine with some laminating adhesive and headliner fabric. Its still holding after over a year.

Yes, that is the kit I was referring to, except in the 5/8ths version they sell. What attracted me to this kit was the OTK tie rod for clearance and the fact that it doesn't look like you need a whole lot of fab work as far as moving the track bar and sway bar mounts to make it work. But I agree, it is different to have the drag link cross the tie rod.

Don't buy RRO or Rusty's, both are awful.

I like that it is OTK and it seems to be pretty beefy, I also like how it uses heims instead of typical TRE's. And it appears as though I won't have to move my swaybar mounts or my trackbar. What do you guys think of this kit? Anyone on hear running this setup?

CPS!!!!!!!

For my 4.5'' springs when I installed spacers a few months ago, i dropped the axle as far as it would go with the other side jacked up, and then used a spring compressor and 1/2'' impact gun to zap the compressor up, I had the springs removed in about 5 minutes. FWIW as long as you have a spring compressor that locks all the way around the coil, it is fairly safe to use, because even if it slips, it won't let go of the spring, it will just move along the spring.

I just laid it in the engine compartment underneath the coolant bottle. No screws are holding it down. Its low on the priority list of the things I need to fix, but I have had no problems in the two years that I have had this setup.

there are several options. If you have stock suspension then you probably can: 1) Take front tires off. and disconnect shocks. 2) Drop the side that you are NOT currently installing the spacer on as low as possible. 3) From the frame, lift the side you are installing as high as possible, with luck it will come high enough to lift the truck off the springs. 4) Install spacer. 5) Repeat on other side 6) Install shocks and wheels. Your other option is to get some on car coil spring compressors and remove the springs using those. I always chain the spring to the axle when doing this though because the spring can become a bomb if it comes loose from the compressors.

I am sure it can be done. PM me if you need a bench and want to swap?

Maybe its an engine mount? pictures would be very helpful.

Ditto, that's the way I'm running mine currently. I've got a set of RE perches for the tube, just haven't gotten around to welding them on yet. Shocks are Monroe something-or-others for a stock Taco......way short and way cheap, too :D Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found I can't take all the credit, I got the idea from you. :waving: All I did was ask around until I found the part number for the Monroe shock that fits this application. I picked the 31000 over the others on that site because it has the most travel for the ''stock application'' shocks, and since I was guessing at what my lift would give me, I wanted a little wiggle room. After running this setup for a season without any complaints, I can't see any reason to worry about long travel shocks and welding new shock mounts as well as the price that goes with them.

flipped u-bolt brackets that have the shock mounts around so that i could re-use the stock setup. The new shocks are way short however. But I haven't had any flex issues with not having enough travel. I picked out the shocks using this page. I used the Monroe 31000's and have been pleased with this setup. IMO an advantage of this setup is that you don't have shock mounts hanging below the axle to get hung up on rocks, and ease of installation. Really falls under the KISS mentality. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/MJRearShock.htm

The Elocker is also now available in 30 spines.

Is it only blowing out your defrost vents? If so 9/10 chances your vacuum bottle behind the front right headlight is leaking.

My statement is based upon amount of breakage I have seen on the trail, and the way the shafts are constructed. Obviously with aftermarket shafts it puts the weak point (talking about the shafts, not the carrier/ring and pinion etc.) is the ujoints. The longfield shafts replace the ujoint with a super beefy CV setup, which IMO is going to hold up better than a ujoint, because it can handle transfer of torque better when compensating for different angles, and will not bind up like ujoints will when given power with the steering wheel at full lock. This is not to say that there are aftermarket ujoints that might be stronger than stock, but based on the design, the Longfield setup is better. The added strength may not be worth the price, however. I am going to go with TEN factory 30 spline shafts, not the longfields because I think that the price vs. strength gain over a traditional shaft is not worth it. :roll: This is like saying Mormon is better than Catholic, Republicans are better than Democrats and Dunkin Donuts over Krispy Cream. :doh: There is a point of personal preference. There are MANY GREAT shaft manufacturers on the market and at a certain point it becomes irrelevant because of other weak points in the Dana 30 axle. Oh, and for the record. Krispy Creams are better than Dunkin Donuts, this is an irrefutable fact, and considered common knowledge. :yes:

Longfields are w/o a doubt the best shafts there are, but they come with a pretty mean price.

Only reason for adding a cooler is because I am looking at putting in a PSC pump, that requires a cooler.

I have a manual trans, and therefore no need for the trans cooler in my radiator. Could I use it as a power steering cooler? Anyone know where I can get fittings that would allow me to clamp lines to, right now there is just two plugs in the place where the fittings should be?