james750

Ten factory, the same as Alloy USA used to be, before the buyout. Made by the same people that used to make alloy USA, they also have a 30 spline version. 30 spline: http://www.rwkhaussupply.com/magento/index.php/drivetrain/jeep/tj-wrangler/dana-30-lp/ten-factory-big-spline-30-chromoly-axle-kit-for-dana-30-tj-xj.html 27 spline: http://www.rwkhaussupply.com/magento/ten-factory-chromoly-axle-kit-for-dana-30-tj-xj.html

This makes since, also, now thinking about it, once water hits the clutch and cools won't it disengage? I've never sped into water crossings, its just not a smart idea, so this probably won't be an issue for me.

That worries me, I guess I'll see what happens... I did end up using grill paint that is supposed to be good up to 1200 degree's. Realized I didn't have enough engine enamel to get the job done, maybe that is for the better?

Just reading an article on NAXJA about waterproofing the XJ/MJ. Some of the poster's were stating that the mechanical fan can get sucked into the radiator like a propeller in deep water crossings, that sounds pretty crazy to me. Is there any truth to this? http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50288

It's cast aluminum. I was going to do a HO VC swap, but the gasket started puking and I didn't have time to go and pull an newer VC. So I'll make this work. It's almost done now, I ran out and got some high temp primer, and painted the third coat of flat black on about an hour ago, tomorrow I will sand down the ridges on top of the cover to expose bare metal and take some pics before the install. On a side note, it was more than slightly amazing how stuck on the grease and sludge was to this cover. It spent about 2 hours in an automatic parts washer this afternoon as well as two manual solvent tank sessions to get the exterior somewhat clean and the baffles clean enough to work, the inside of the cover is still dirty though, but cleaner than it was. I ended up taking a bench grinder to the cover to get the remaining pieces of paint off, exterior was a clean pallet at that point, but the inside is a different story.

I already have engine enamel to paint my valve cover, but would it be ok to use regular primer on it?

are those the treadwright retreads?

no.

Awesome pics!

LOL, that's pretty funny.

I plan on re-using the original nuts on the MJ lines at the prop valve. Then I plan on getting the WJ lines, cutting the prop valve end off, putting the MJ nuts on and re-flaring that end. I don't want to reflare the WJ master cylinder side of the lines because I don't have a bubble flare fitting, only a double flare fitting for my flaring tool.

Cool, I was curious as to why there was two hoes as well.

Awesome, could you tell me the size of bolt head that is holding it on. I am assuming it is an 8mm (5/16ths) or a phillips screwdriver. Need to know so I can take the right tool and just pull it out after work on my way home.

There are several options since our trucks use brake and turn signals out of both lights. You could wire it so that only the upper slot is the brake and turn, and make the bottom hole a reverse light. Or you could make both lights brake and turn (no reverse, and both light holes are used). OR, if your feeling like a wiring job, wire it like the XJ's so that the turn signals are on the bottom and the brake lights are on the top (no reverse, but both holes are used, but has an learning experience of wiring the turn/brakes separate).

I don't have the bracket for cruise control switch on my pedal assembly. Biggest concern for me is the high pedal. I want to go to a WJ booster because its stronger.

I hope this isn't what I think it is... + = :no: :headpop:

The rear line can be moved down easily too if you change the bracket holding the line to the same type that clamps on the lines that most front extended lines come with.

Don't put gear lube in, it eats the synchro's. ATF goes in the Tcase, not the trans. The updated lubricant for the AX15 is 10w30 motor oil. It is the same viscosity as 80-90 GL but without the harsh additives that eat the synchros on these transmissions.

They have them in England.

This is why I am putting out a feeler and not just making them. I understand this logic completely, but I feel I owe it to those that have asked to at least put a feeler. Trust me, we understand the size of this market! Since we prototyped sliders for these trucks, we maybe have sold 3-4 sets. Sorry to hear about the sliders not selling well, I know the kind of work it takes to prototype and produce a new product. I plan on ordering a set within a month though as your setup is one of the only out there for LWB MJ's and they are definitely the best built.

Even the older non-sealed ones can be driven without a rear shaft, if you have a roll of duct tape to cover up the output seal hole to limp it home.

http://www.traildamage.com/trails This has TONS of Colorado Trail information. I would take you through B.V carnage in YOUR truck if you want. :brows: http://www.traildamage.com/trails/index.php?id=178

Yeah, but to avoid issues with grinding too deep (don't have a welder), or at the wrong angle,and the pedal being too high. I'd like to swap the rods for these reasons. What all is involved, anyone know the secrets for me to do it myself?

I would highly suggest swapping in an 8.25 29 spline while your doing SOA. The reason is for strength, as well as that you will not need to lengthen your driveshaft or deal with it being pulled out, the yoke on the 8.25 sits farther out. My driveshaft sits in the same place with the 8.25 and SOA as it did with the upcountry package and the Dana 35. I've had no drive line vibes with this setup. You will need about 6.5" front lift to make it look decent though as you saw my truck on 4.5'' front at the beginning of the summer (pretty bad rear rake), and 6.5 front a few weeks ago, which puts it with a decent rake, not too much, and the truck sits level when loaded, but the metric ton springs on my truck might throw this measurement off when applied to your truck with normal springs, it may sit low when loaded with wood and tools. If you need any help with the SOA or an axle swap, let me know, I can help most weekends.

What happened to the puke smiley, I need it now...