james750

I've been searching for vac leaks on my truck. On the right side of the throttle body (passenger side), there are 2 vacuum ports the bottom one has a line running to the MAP sensor, but the top one is empty. What is supposed to be hooked up to the top vac port?

how do you remove them? Can you put them back on once removed? Also, anyone have an extra frame support for the roll bar laying around?

After reading a recent thread, I got curious. What is the purpose of the plugs at the front corners of the bed? And are they removeable/replaceable?

if you install disconnects, you need a new stud for that bottom piece.

CUTOFF WHEEL!!!!!

We also run it in all our other XJ's w/o issue (92, 2 97's, 2 98's) that aren't renix without a problem either.

I don't see why your truck would run like crap on 85 but mine has been running fine on it for years now. Maybe I'll try 87 at the next fill up. For it to run as badly as it is with 85 it really makes me wonder if you had E85 in the tank.

In Colorado, 85 octane (NOTE, not E85) fuel is sold at all gas stations, I never run anything different in my MJ, and it runs fine. It's an altitude thing. Taken from Wikipedia, "United States, in the Rocky Mountain (high altitude) states, 85 AKI is the minimum octane, and 91 AKI is the maximum octane available in fuel. The reason for this is that in higher-altitude areas, a typical naturally-aspirated engine draws in less air mass per cycle due to the reduced density of the atmosphere." This is also why my MJ runs like crap here in CO vs at sea level. If you did put E85 in it, Then there's a problem. E85 will destroy your fuel pump, can eat away at your lines, and can also cause damage to plastic tanks. I would recommend removal and replacement of the fuel IMMEDIATELY to prevent further damage.

sounds like a booster problem. check your fluid level, pad wear, wheel cylinders, and calipers, as well as all the lines and valves. Do you hear a hissing coming from your booster with the truck on and the pedal not being pressed.

You'll have to cut. Technically they will fit. But when your wheel travels up, it will rub because the wheel wells are not large enough to handle that size tire.

Personally, I think a Mazda RX-8 RENISIS rotary motor in a wheeled MJ would be badass. I can't afford it and don't know enough about rotary motors to pull off a swap myself.

May I suggest the WJ DD booster. Just as easy to install, BUT the pedal stays at the same stock height. :thumbsup: EDIT: BTW its not that pricey, my swap for the Master and booster was about 60, I used junkyard parts and rebent/flared the prop valve side of the lines.

The ferrari can shift faster, but the torque converter slippage more than makes up for the gained time in shifting. Manual trans FTW. Also, ABS is unnecessary if you can threshold brake. BUT most people don't know how to threshold brake. I can, and I don't have ABS in any of my vehicles. :D

Looks like you've got a minor case of inchitis. Almost everyone on here has it. It only gets worse. Just go to a full 6.5'' LA kit and SOA rear.

Looking at some simple anti theft measures on the MJ. A fuel pump cutoff switch is the most simple and most effective measure I have thought of. I have heard that the wiring for the fuel pump runs along the drivers side under the trim at the bottom of the door. Which wires are for the fuel pump, and is one possibly a ground wire as I'd rather interrupt that than a positive lead?

No cooling problems, it actually cools too well. I think that the factory fan is stuck on because it is always spinning (maybe the fan is just grabbing a little bit and the fan is turning with it), and the truck never gets up to 210, new thermostat didn't help. I am not sure if I want to just replace my factory fan a new mechanical fan (sounds easier right about now) or if I want to convert to a second electric fan. Is there any way to test the factory fan clutch to see if it is always locked up or if it is functioning properly? I can freely spin it with the truck off which leads me to believe it is working and just idling along with the engine running. Just trying to get the truck up to normal operating temp. I'll try aiming the laser heat gun at it while its at operating temp next time I am at work with it to see if maybe the gauge is off and the temp sensor took a crap maybe as well. :dunno:

No way would I run just the one aux fan, that wouldn't cool anywhere near enough. Sounds like I can run a second fan off of that same switch though, with a relay. Thanks guys!

Want to buy one of the fitted mats for the longbed trucks.

I know that some of the engine sensors are different (TPS for example). not completely sure, but you might need a different engine wiring harness as well.

Legally, you need an A/C machine to evac the system legally, and you should have one to put the system under a vacuum to check for leaks after the new part is installed. And, although not required, it certainly makes it easier to recharge the system. This is especially important if you plan to continue to use R-12, which is around $100 bucks a pound. I would suggest doing the R-134a conversion why you are replacing the compressor. You also need to replace the pag oil that you are removing from the system by removing the compressor. Also, by A/C unit what do you mean? I am assuming compressor. But with the number of components that make up the ac system, I figured I should ask?

If your interested, I have the Currie bar that CW has on his TJ for sale, I upgraded to the double shear setup. It will come with a brand new Johnny Joint. I only ran it for 1/2 a season. PM me if interested.

Thinking about putting an electric cooling fan in place of the mechanical one on my MJ. I have an Aux fan already (no A/C, part of the towing/offroad package). Could I wire the new electrical fan into the cooling temp sensor that is on the side of the radiator to control it? Does that sensor even control when the aux fan comes on? Does the aux fan come on at a higher temp than the other fan? Would this be a problem?

Get the RE heavy duty double shear model, you won't be sorry. I had a Currie track bar (very similar to JKS bar) and was very unhappy with it, without the double shear, I kept having it move a little bit without the extra support, this movement would break the tapered adapter and cause some bad DW.

But it doesn't always have it with those packages, mine has the tow package and the Off Road package, and came with the Up Country package, and it still had a 35. This has been leading me to believe the 44 was swapped out of it, especially since the PO built and wheeled XJ's and the MJ was just his DD.

Because refrigerators remove heat, they don't ''cool'', they can only make things colder, not warmer, they cannot add heat. If the temperature in the fridge is already below freezing, then common sense states that they would freeze. The A/C in our car works the same way, that why car A/C systems are less efficient the cooler it is outside.