juan

The previous owner did not maintaned the mj too well - I bought it because it virtually has no rust becausw of years of neglet and oil leaks from just about everywhere. The undercarrige had a nice oily undercotting. I have removed the valve cover several times to clean it including the towers, all the vaccum hoses had been cleaned and are clear of gunk as well , I know, I know but when I take the truck for a trip to get something, the smoke at the rear is visible and it just does not look good, and I know is not going to get better....

I'm looking for opinion and ideas on what do do. I have an 88 mj pioneer that I have done a lot of upgrades and put a lot of time and money into it for the last 5 years. The mj is not a daily driver as I own 2 more jeeps. The mj is primarly used for dump runs, to carry stuff for the house and yard and in the winter I plow my own driveway. The mj has the 4.0 engine, peugot tranny (in very decent shape as of this writting) and a swapped mj d44 / non disco 30 turning 3.55 gears (from an auto) which works very well with the 30 inch tires I'm running. Now my dilema is that the engine has 165 K and its starting to burn oil. It has the dreaded blow by that I have been trying to eliminate or reduce with little sucess by trying just about everithing we talk about here on the board. The mj runs fine and strong but I know shes starting to burn oil. I'm starting to look for engine rebuild or swap but to swap a 20+ engine from the junk yard is going to be hard to find one in good condition so I'm thinking in a newer 4.0 using the renix fuel injection. Has anyone done this that can give me a few ideas or what to look for ??? What year engine is the easier one to swap? 91-95 years or 97 to 2006? thanks and any comments will be appreciated.

I have done rear brakes on many of my jeeps and my brakes do have the short stem metal rod that goes from the wheel cyl to the shoe. As a matter of fact a few days back a completly re did the rear shoes in my 87 xj including new whell cyl. The new whell cyl did not come with new stem rods - so I used my old ones, w/o these rods the wheel cyl will never work.

Same with me - I began by changing the master cyl, that helped a little bit, ended up replacing the hydrolic cyl, along with a new clutch and now is good as new.

I have them in my mj. I have a pair of air bags in the front coils to help me carry the extra load of the snowplow in the winter, they work great at preventing / helping with the front end sag. I like them so much I installed a pair in the back to help me level the rear end when loaded. I got mine from JC whitney - I only got the air bags w/o the compressor as I find it expensive, Instead I installed an ARB compressor I had laying around from another project to pump the air bags and as a bonus I can air up tires too. I also found them easy to install. Good luck.

Yes the oil dip stick tube can be a problem getting it out - it supposed to split half way down but years of been togueter will prove difficult to separate. Try unbolting the entire dip stick tube from the side of the engine / transmission and try to remove it as an entire unit, this is what I had to do in order to avoid breaking it, then on the bench you can separate the two parts of the dip stick using a monkey wrench or something similar by turning it loose. Then to get it back togueter use a bit of RTV to seal it.-good luck.

I had good results using a propane torch to heat up the edges of the pan to work it loose.

I think is 8 mm. but not 100% sure.

I'm having the same problem... mine is the slave cyl. leaking. I have to pull the tranny out very soon...

I have an 88 mj 5 speed with the peugot tranny that is working just fine for now. I do have a snoway plow in it to plow my own personal driveway only. I went with the snoway set up because is very lite as the plow frame is metal but the plow blade is clear lexan plastic. The entire set up including the subframe weigh in at 400 pounds. The front end dives down a good 3 to 4 inches when the plow is lifted and the rear end goes up as well. My solution was to install air bags / helper springs from Air lift. Is nothing more that a bladder that fits inside the front coils that you can pump air to stiffen the front end. Super easy to install and you can use your shop compressor to inflate the air bags to help you carry the additional load. They work great. They sell you an optional compressor that you can mount in the jeep to monitor the pressure and add air as needed from inside the cab but I find it just as easy to use my own shop air. I like this set up so much I added a similar air bag system to the rear end of the truck to help me carry more cargo w/o ridding on the bumpstops.

How about checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a fuel gauge... you will be able to tell if your problem is fuel related.

I'm sorry guys but I have no clue on this one, as the spanish words can vary from region to region. I can pretty much underdstand what they mean but this one got me.... some spanish words I do not use but I will know what they mean.... sorry

well, did the insurance fix it or they total it.... If the price to fix the jeep exeeds the value of the truck it will be a total loss and the insurance company will screw you all the way to the bank - do not ask me how I know.

My kids and I pray everynight, we will put you down on our prayers....

yes, rear cargo light to light up the bed at night. It was an option.

muy buen trabajo, no te deprimas mucho por la oxidacion de la comanche, poco a poco la vas arreglando y veraz que va a quedar muy bien - suerte y mantente en contacto.

I had the same problem with my 87 xj, I had an a/c shop make the lines for me, Napa can do them too and what it could not be match I waswent to faxon engineering and they made them for me re-using the old hose fittings. Its been about 5 years and so far so good.

How about a d44 from a wagoneer? I swapped one in my YJ and it fit like a glove - better yet get the matching rear and you will be better off in my opinion.

looks to be the wiring to the aux.fan, it goes to a diode that splits into the temp sensor and the a/c switch.

Yes - got one of those .... is a block heater for when it's cold outside.

What he said!!!!!!

Try turning the screw and gently put pressure on the trim to force the scre out - you just need to somehow slide your hand in back of the trim or pull somewhat to kind of make the screw catch the treads and come out - good luck.

CW - I know you just installed a new tank in your MJ, Let me remind you that not all aftermarket tanks are created equal - I had a similar problem in my xj and this is what I did back in 2002 and to this date is working very well... http://www.jonfund.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=38&Number=320#Post320

I had a similar problem with my CB - after a lot of back and forth I decided to change the cable and to my surprised that did it - my SWR reading is 1!!!!! good luck.

I swapped an MJ d44 into my 88 shortbead MJ and used the stock d35 shaft for a while - ran fine w/o any issues. The d35 shaft was very close to bottoming out (it never did while I had it) but I eventually had it shortened about an inch for a better fit - it cost me $119 dollars at a local shop.