juan

I had this issue a few weeks back - Lucky for me the door opened after endless attempts, when it did I took the door panel off and sprayed lubricant on the lock mechanism - it now open and closes very easy - good luck.

I have done this job twice on D30 and once in a d44 and I have not seen any type of seal applied at this area. It could be some residue from the old seal. clean the area good, make sure the new seal has a nice area to go into and drive it in, if you do not do it right you won't be able to install back up the carrier / gears. bearings and shims. The seal must be driven all the way in but be careful because they like to go in crooked and if it does you will ruin it. good luck.

yes, duct tape will help with the window and regular bolts and nuts will work too...

I used to have the same exact issue - mine was the vacuum axel disconnect acting up. I ended making a home made axel disconnect with a bicycle cable and some other parts, you can permanently lock your front axel by stacking washers and keeping the fork engaged at all times, this is a cheap fix. I ended up swapping a non CAD axel and the problem was solved

I put money on the O-rings for the filter housing. $5 worth of parts @ dealer....

mine did just that a couple of weeks ago... I filled the reservoir with fluid before my fingers froze. My clutch was installed new 2 years ago. After the fill up all shifting fine - I do see a small drop of what I think is oil in the ground but the truck has always marked the driveway with a few drops... now I'm wondering if is actually oil or clutch fluid - too cold to look right now.

keep in mind that a full time locker in the front will make the front drive shaft turn all the time, make sure the u joints are good an the angle is good to prevent vibrations. I once installed a lockrite on a d30 with 410 gears and I had to remove the carrier out of the jeep, steering linkage had to be disconected fron one of the knuckles to get it out of the way in order for the carrier to come out and the ring gear had to come out - all for clearance so the lockrite could be installed, not a difficult job at all but it took a little bit longer that I had originally anticipated.

I have use ARB lockers in the front an rear of my jeeps and I can vouch for their durability and excellent customer satisfaction. In the front I would highly recomment a selectable locker - one that you can turn on and off at will. good luck,

you don't need the 4wd light to be on to tell you you are in 4wd - when I swapped my front disco d30 fro a non disco d30 I lost 4wd switch indicator and I have not miss it at all, you do have to hook up the spedo sensor...

The overall weight including the subframe of the snoway way plow I have in the MJ is about 340 to 350 pounds. The weight is enough to bring the front end down a bit but I fix that by installing a set of air lift bags in the front coils - they work great and they are very affordable. I will suggest that if you have the funds go for the matching compressor that automatically will keep the air bags inflated to the minimum pressure recomended plus you can always inflate and deflate from the comfort of the cab on those cold days.

I have been runing a snoway snow plow in my 88 mj for about 5 years with no issues. I only do my driveway an my neightbors. The snoway plow is a clear lexan blade with down pressure - it works pretty good and the whole thing weight 380 lb.

I don't think is comon practice to change the seals during a gear change. I have pulled axels several times from the differential and what gets me is that if you are not carefull the end of the axel when pulled will drag inside the axel tube and pick up any dirt sitting in the axel tube - same thing happens when you install them back up and now the seal is contaminated with sand or dirt and is unable to seal and the leak starts. I always clean the axel tubes when I pull an axel to make sure is clean - so far I had good luck.

I have a similar problem every now and then. My blower does not run when I turn it on, A quick check of thre blower fuse revealed it was sligthly loose and will make intermitent contact. Most of the time as soon as I touch the blower fuse, the blower quickly came back to life. My solution was to slightly bend the fuse contacts in the fuse box and sligthly bend the legs of the fuse - this way the fuse will make good contact and the blower will work.

This sounds like the tailgate from my buddy cwlongshot mj, you guys remember him, he sold it a couple of years ago .... His new owner lives in Manchester ct.

Where are you? I have one. I'm in ct.

Did u replace the tank recently? I did in my xi an the after market tank I got did not have the indentation at the bottom of the tank like the factory one did and the pump never sat correctly so it vibrated like crazy. I ended up snaking a long spring from the filler neck to the pump to tie it in an the vibration stopped. It's been 10th years since and all is still.working fine.

I had this happened to me, I snake a coat hanger up the tube and a lot of gunk came out , its all good now.

That is the Knock sensor.

My buddy at work has one in mint shape, he never uses it. If interested I can ask...

10.50 fits nice inside the fenders with stock rims, I lile the looks, try it and you will agree.

check the steering box mount area and bolts...mine has a lot of play and needs to get reinforced. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth and check for play.

use the 231 already mated to the ax15 = problem solved!

This happened to me last year, I ended up pulling the fuel pump relay in order to turn off the mj. This is an easy fix - you need to remove the key cylinder in your steering colum and replace it with a new one. Remove the horn cover in the steering wheel and remove the nut holdining it, you might need a steering wheel puller or not, in my case the steering wheel came off by just pulling it by hand. The horn assembly and turn signal cancelling switch can be a bit tricky to install - just pay attention the way you take it off so you can put it back up in the same way and order you remove it. The key cylinder is held by a small screw, remove it and installed the new one - Make sure to mark the position of the steering wheel so you install it in the same place it was otherwise it won look centered. good luck.

I will not put a lot of money into the d35, If you are not ready to spend money on a swap right now just change the seal, they are cheap and easy to do - and if the d35 blows no harm done...

well, last summer i swapped a 94ho, 4.0, out of a zj into my 88 mj. I Used the block of d 94 motor with all the renix stuff, it was a relatively easy swap and so far so good...