juan

I agree and disagree with you. I have own 3 different plow set ups on my jeeps, the first one wasa meyers 4 way on my cj and it worked very nice, next I got a good deal on a snowbear plow just like the one in the above picture, this plow went up and down with a small winch but the angle part was a manual affair that got old quickly. I used this set up to plow my own personal driveway and my neighbors and it did the job but like I said getting in and out of the jeep to angle the plow got really old quickly. I did too got this set up used for $150, I had to buy the jeep specific frame mount that ran me another $250 or so - now it was not such a good deal. I no longer have this set up as I ended gettind a 4 way snoway plow with down pressure which works really nice. Bottom line if you are just plowing your driveway, do not mind getting out the jeep to angle the plow and can get the plow for next to nothing with the jeep specific frame mount included - I say get it and enjoy.

I have used both thru the years and I agree, por15 sometimes does not sticks like it should and it comes off in sheets, rustbullet is not much better. I have given up on both because they are way expensive - I now use regular rostolium products and I don't see much difference in longevity and its a lot cheaper.

Make sure the heater valve is working and not stuck closed, if found to be ok, feel the heater hoses to see if they are getting hot, try flushing the heater core with your garden hose - you will be surprise how much crap comes out...

Hey, how about the durabak in either rough bedliner or straight paint???? anyone?

You are asking 20 year old wiring to have a perfect text book voltage reading - bottom line is not going to happen. Maybe when the jeep was new the reading was 5v but after 20 years the is going to be some resistance in the wires therefore you are going to read less - actually 4.67v is not bad at all, adjust to about 20% of that reading, if it does not work adjust manually by feel untill the jeep runs to your liking.

my 88 mj blow by was so bad that it was filling the engine bay (with the hood closed) with exaust and oil smell - I had a catch can collecting the blow by. This exhaust smoke had to go somewhere so it found its way thru my shifter into the cab and made driving with the windows open very difficult. My solution, I ended up swapping another engine.

I just swapped a 94 HO 4.0 engine into my renix 88MJ. I ditched everything exept the engine block - all renix related components will bolt right in.

Where are you located? I have all the parts you need to get you up and running again... All parts came out my 88 MJ that I have upgraded thru the years ....I'm in Connecticut!

Sounds good! Did you spray it or did you roll it / paint brush it? from the picture it looks good.

I'm thinking in doing a duraback exterior paint job on my 88 mj. The paint is fading and the clear coat comming of too, I'm thinking in using this product to paint the mj. Has anyone done this and did you have good results? How about preparation time and was it difficult to apply? Tell me your experiences....and show me how you did it. thanks.

What you are looking for is air bags from airlift company - I have them in the front to help me with the plow in the winter and it works great - I also have them in the back to help me carry heavy loads w/o dragging my rear.

yes, in 1988 there was a "special edition" to celebrate the 1988 olympics. Nothing special but nice to have.

My good friend CW is going crazy... :nuts: I have spoken to him but his mind is set, I know what he is doing but he does not want me to tell.... CW other passion is firearms and knives - lot's of them - so I must stay silent. :???:

its not a difficult job but time consuming. both axel have to come out and the carrier and ring gear to get access to the inner seal.

I did this swap a couple of years ago on my 88 mj ba10. Iswapped the d35 for an mj d44. I'm used the same plates but new d44 ubolts, also I tryed using the d35 backing plates and hardware but it just did not fit so I ended up getting new d44 backing plates, brakes and hardware. I ran the d35 stock driveshaft but it was just way too close for comfort so I had it shorten an inch and now all is good.

I had the same problem in my 88 mj, turns out the diode was bad - I went to napa and bought one for some other application that I installed and so far so good.

My engine was on its way out so I try the rear main seal in a can from autozone, I did it twice !!! it made no difference what so ever... save your money.

I agree with CW. I only plow my personal driveway and my neightbor in the winter, (I do not charge my neightbor as we are friends). The mj does fine with it but that's all I would do - defenetly nothing comercial. My 88 mj with the 4.0 does very well pushing the snow as long as you go slow in low gear and take it easy. The plow of choice for me was the snoway brand plow that has the clear lexan plow which is much lighter that the full metal plows in the market, also I went with the shorter in height plow (18 inches vs.24) . If I'm going down the highway with the plow up blocking flow to the radiator I can see the temperature rise so having the shorter plow I can drop the plow down about 8 inches from the ground and the top of the plow is just above the front bumper leaving plenty of room for air to help cool down the jeep. I also have a pair of front coil airbags to help with the added weight.

not sure if it was sugested or not but a PIC will help a lot... :wall:

Thanks guys for all the great answers, especially eagle and Wildman. Today I wanted to try removing the o-ring at the combination valve just like the article said. I read and re-read the article so I felt this modification will definitely help my rear brakes so I contacted my good friend CW for an additional helping hand. After work I stopped by his house and we had it all done in about 1hr!!! Including clean up, putting the tools away bleeding the brakes and a quick lap around the block to test my newly improve brakes. All I have to say is that it works better that advertised; I was able to lock my wheels on pavement with no problem. I will recommend this modification to anyone that is lacking breaking performance. Thanks CW for the helping hand and thanks you guys in the forum for nailing this one again

I know this is an mj forum but a lot of mj owners also own xjs so here I go - I just spent the day working on my 88 xj with the d44 rear end and installed new rear wheel cyl., shoes, hardware and drums. I did this because I nothice that my brakes needed replacement so I decided to change it all. Before I changed all the brakes I noticed that my rear brakes were barely engaging, as a matter of fact if I raised the rear end with the wheels of the air I could easly spin the rear tires and could not lock them at all. Well after all the work and the installation of new parts I see no diference what so ever, and yes, the brakes are nice and adjusted and the wheels still spind with little to no resistance. I blead the brakes several times too...Any Ideas???

smoke / steam out the oil cab or the front valve cover hose is common - otherwhise known as blow by. My mj does it.

I will forever be thankfull to my friend.... :cheers:

Thanks Brian - I have seen several good running 4.0 for $200 or less...that will leve some cash for Bill for the install! should we go get this?

I'm aware that I have a renix system, what I ment was to swap an 4.0 HO but using the renix fuel injection since a complete HO swap requires so much more. The jeep runs strong and does not knock - I'm going to look into the valve stems seals....thanks.