Blue XJ

I have also found the most effective way to pull a jeep out is by pulling it from the side. Thats a bunch of idiots there.

I have both, I have a propane convection heater like the one at Lowes that was posted earlier and I have a kerosene torpedo heater. The propane has less of a smell than the kerosene, but I have noticed it fills the garage with fumes quicker. I started using exchange bottles for my gas grill and my heater will no longer run off of them, not sure why. Thats when I picked up a kerosene torpedo. It works great, but is very loud. The fuel seems to get sucked down fast too, I burned through 5 gallons in about 10 hours maybe even less. I don't notice the smell much, even my fiancee doesn't really notice it when she comes into the garage, but I burnt he clean burning K-1 Kerosene from the hardware store, which is rather expensive.

eh, thats better than what I usually have laying on it. Its just my beater truck, I'm not too worried about my paint. I wouldn't lay tools on my DD like that though, thats for sure.

I think it makes a nice improvement to an old looking truck. before: after: I swapped over to the newer style mirrors as well, I got tired of breaking the old ones off on trees, the newer ones fold in and are a LOT bigger. I picked up a set of door from a 99XJ as well to put on, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

In my opinion, I would lock the front first. I have ran locked front/open rear, locked front/locked rear, open front/locked rear and the most predictable and biggest noticeable difference was just having the front locked. Even in mud, once you point the wheels where you want to go, they both pull you in that direction. I've had a couple Aussie lockers up front and have absolutely no complaints about them. I am currently replacing my Powertrax NoSlip that I have in the rear with an ARB, now that there is snow on the ground, the Powertrax is making it very difficult to daily drive my truck. It always wants to stay locked while driving, (which its supposed to when torque is being applied to it) which is making the rear end break traction and slide around a lot.

x2 on all accounts. I use mine for the net, which is what its designed for. The only issue I have noticed is the vertical resolution of the screen, certain webpages don't resize and they are bigger than my screen, so I lose access to the buttons. Other than that its great, its a Dell Mini 10v, 10.1" screen, 1gb ram, 160gb hard drive and the faster 1.8?? ghz processor and the keyboard is 92% the size of a fullsize one, I don't even notice it smaller than my work laptops keyboard. It runs office, and itunes and photoshop just fine. My buddy bought an Acer one and absolutely hated it, it was very slow and didn't run any programs that needed some power. He ended up getting rid of it and getting a dell to replace it and is very happy with the new one. edit: get the bigger battery too. i have the 6 cell one and I get no less than 6 hours of run time from a full charge.

I picked up a Cobalt box, so far I like it. Could be a little bigger though, I have a few things that would fit except the linkage for the latch gets in the way. My buddy at work has a cobalt box too, its the older style, with the push button locks. They have seized up and no longer work after a couple winters with the salt on the roads. here's the one I picked up

I would lower it a couple inches and switch to Alloys up front. Hundreds of people run an alloyed D30 with 35's with no problem.

I got mine from Ultimate Air a few years ago for $100. Its an adjustable one that is guaranteed not to freeze. It still frosts up after the third tire and really slows down on the 4th, but it works good.

I had one in my disconnect housing too. I didn't put the c-clip back in on the passenger side shaft. Took a couple hours to install, I think I pulled the carrier and took the gear off, much easier doing it on a work bench. You'll really like it once you have it too. I did notice it was tougher to turn in high traction conditions in 4wd.

He has been posting on Jeepin recently.

I'm still undecided. I might, but more than likely I won't. The cage on the inside is really tight up against the panels, I don't know how I would get access to the back sides of them to go through the roof/back panel to tie them together.

If you want something that will save your neck, you might want to focus on getting materials that will actually save your neck. OEM stuff is not really know for that. DOM is where it's at. :thumbsup: For an internal cage, HREW is sufficient, since the roof structure will take most of the load. Anything external, I would go DOM for sure.

I picked up the warn conversion kit a few years ago. i picked it up used for $300. it comes with alloy outer shafts, and your supposed to reuse the stock inners, luckily i got the warn alloy inners with the kit. it works pretty good, i have already broke 1 hub from mild wheeling at the badlands. i bought a spare set of milemarker hubs (a lot cheaper) to carry with me as trail spares. I'd rather break a $50 hub than a ujoint, since it usually takes out the shaft too and the warn ones are a few hundred each to replace.

For my old 90 XJ doors I was able to by rolling the window down, getting as much of the seal in the door as I could. then roll the window up as far as it would go without damaging the seal. Then roll the window down while pinching the seal on both sides of it and it pulled the seal down and into place for me. A little bit of soapy water on the track side of the seal will help it slide easier. I had power windows when I did it, it might take two people if they are manual. For the 99 doors I just put on, I rolled the window down, then removed the door panel, then forced the seal into place as much as I could. I then took pliers and gently pulled it down the rest of the way, by pulling on the very bottom edge of it. These were the newer style doors with newer style seals though, so it might not work on the older ones.

$300 for an alternator? I have replaced mine a few times and its always been less than or right around $100 for one. I have bought them at Autozone and Murrays/Oreilly's and they were never more than $100. I would also check your grounds, my volt gauge reads 9-10volts. I hooked up an aftermarket gauge and it reads 14 at all times.

So the only thing that holds that one from going forward or backward is the two seat belt bolts? Is that strong enough for a decent roll?

I bought the front half of this one, it fit decent but the bends could have been a little better located. http://www.dandcextreme.com/product.asp?pkID=126 I think they wanted $250 for the b pillar hoop, a pillar bars, 2 spreaders and the seat belt bar. I have since bought my own bender and have added on to the cage. The yellow is what came with the kit, minus the seat belt bar, I bent up my own, since I used theirs as the windshield spreader to get more headroom. The unpainted tube is what I have added Image Not Found Image Not Found

If you have everything else you need and are just looking to swap springs now. I have always liked my Rubicon Express coils for the ride quality. They were a little too mushy for my liking once I tossed a heavy bumper and winch on the front. You should be able to find a used set in that size for about $100.

simple but it works

If I had to bet I would say CPS on the bellhousing. Check for fuel pressure at the rail, and check for spark at a plug. If there is no spark, odds are its a CPS, I think I have replaced mine 4 times over the last 10 years.

Its just a basic heim joint. I figured I just needed a joint to tie the two rails together, it won't ever really see any movement. Heims are easy to work with and have a little misalignment built into them in case I couldn't package the bar perfectly straight across. I got these pretty cheap too, they are just the greaseable heims from McMaster Carr. They are rated for 50,000 pounds and it cost me less than $40 shipped for the two heims, two tube inserts and jam nuts. The tubing was just scrap I had left over.

86-2001 would be correct. technically

they are out of my old 90 2 door cherokee. actually, 85% of the parts on this truck are from the cherokee, only thing thats not is the front doors, and rear suspension really.

I managed to get some more work done to this. I picked up a set of doors from a 99 XJ, along with the shifters and center console. I painted the doors this weekend, but I'll probably wait till the week after Christmas to install them. I did however get the console and newer shifters in, along with some more cage work. I'll let the pictures do the talking, the cage is 1.5" .120 wall DOM. I'm going to try to dye the dash gray to make it match. Image Not Found Added door bars and a couple overhead bars to build an overhead console from Seat belt bar Not a bad notch for doing it by hand with a grinder, this is about how all of them look. Now only if my welds turned out just as good. :eek: I also picked up a bed mounted toolbox at Lowes for a killer price Image Not Found Bent up a b-hoop to match the contour of the cab added some down bars The rear portion is tied into my rock rails and rear wheel wells, both of which will get some tube for reinforcement over the holiday break. Also built a track bar brace to help stiffen up the front end. Actually made a noticeable difference