gogmorgo

Only time I've seen battery cables melt was when there was either a massive short, or the battery got hooked up backwards. Until recently I lived in mb, not far from Dauphin. I'd go for replacing the whole cables too. The clamp-on replacements work, but they're pretty janky, and you can only stretch the factory cables so far. Plus if one end's bad, the other end likely is too. Like Dirty said, parts store, crappy tire, etc. Negative battery terminal should have a battery cable running to the engine block somewhere (mine is to the dipstick tube bolt) and one to the body. Positive battery cable should go to a terminal on the starter solenoid, and one to a power distribution centre of sorts... Don't know offhand what it is on a Renix.

Whereabouts are ya? I'm guessing east somewhere cause 45mins is nothing anywhere I've lived, haha. I did an alternator in a Powerstroke a few weeks ago, but the new one came with a bad regulator. It put out reasonable voltage still (~13.5) but overcharged one of the batteries to the point it boiled. Strangely only the one of the two got overcharged, the other one stayed steady at 12.6V.

If it's only certain parts of AZ it might be county bylaws, not state.

When you say "gone as can be" I'm assuming you mean "missing". You can buy new repop tanks. RockAuto.com would be one potential source. You could also try your favourite local parts store, although my experience ordering them hasn't been great. First time around I got sent an XJ tank which is very much the wrong shape, second time it took two months (for a body shop's parts supply) to get one to where it needed to be. Last I checked, rockauto also had the hanger straps too. Finding a fuel pump isn't too tricky either. The pump is the same as an XJ pump for the same engine. Ditto on the filter. As was said, it's an inline filter, just north of the tank along the frame rail. The tricky part assuming you are in fact missing everything will be finding the pump hanger/ fuel level sending assembly. Generally referred to here as the "sending unit". They're NLA from Mopar, and no one's repopping them either. Some parts stores incorrectly have the XJ sending unit listed as fitting MJs, and while some members have managed to make them work, it's not going to be a bolt-in affair. MJ senders do come up from time to time on eBay, and you can watch the classifieds on here too. For $#!&s, here's my MJ's 23-gallon tank next to the XJ tank I was sent the first time around. I mean if you were really ambitious I'm sure you could make it work, but it's definitely not worth it if all you're looking to do is replace the factory tank.

Drawing less power would be less likely to blow a fuse, unless poor quality lights were shorting to ground, or you've got some incredibly bright LED's there.

You could always pull the motor and bench test it. I'd say rust in the linkage probably isn't likely in your case, but sometimes not using things can cause them to seize up. Sitting doesn't usually do in electric motors unless dirt or water got into it but I don't know that would cause an overload. My MJ's wiper motor is definitely getting tired, but at 330,000 miles it's not a huge surprise to me. You could always splash some water onto the windshield to see if the wipers pick up speed. Mine don't always like wiping a dry window.

Sounds more like there's an issue where the wiper motor is drawing way too much current and the circuit breaker is doing what it should, tripping. Either the motor is going bad or there's an issue with the linkage binding up. The easy way to check would be to measure the current going through the jumper wire, and if it's over 5.5A then the breaker isn't the problem. But not everyone has an ammeter handy...

Just curious, has any AZ emission tech actually told you your exhaust isn't compliant?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the pilot bushing/bearing change only needed if you're swapping from the Peugeot trans to an AX15?

Put on some safety glasses, open up the reservoir, and get a helper to step on the brakes. If fluid squirts out of the front compartment into the rear, replace the master cylinder. As as to the leak, find a dry patch of ground (put down cardboard, or something) and absolutely stand on the brakes a few times. Both feet if you need to. The fluid doesn't just dissapear, it's got to be going somewhere. Or, if there's paint stripped off somewhere, it's a pretty big clue. Fluids leak downwards and backwards, so look forward and up until you stop seeing bubbling paint. If you've got a manual trans, the brake fluid could be coming out of the clutch master cylinder, and the rear brake reservoir could just be emptying itself because of a leak in the rear circuit somewhere.

I thought one or two of the North-East or New England (or whatever) states used the California emissions requirements. My factory five-speed ZJ does the same sort of thing. I've been attributing it to slop in the 25-year-old/165,000 mile Dana 35. That said I have no idea how long it's been doing this because I've only had it a month, and I haven't investigated it that much.

Going with production years only isn't the best way to identify. There was some holdover between years, likely as they used up surplus parts. 2wd's especially I think hung onto the older style knuckle/caliper for a few years longer, plus you don't know what's been changed in 30 years. The easiest way to tell the difference between the callipers themselves is that the older style has one big round-ish window in the back of the caliper, and the newer one has two smaller rectangular windows. Like so: Note the one is listed as RWD and the other as 4WD. I looked them up for a '93 XJ, and just chose those two specifically because it showed the images conveniently next to each other with the window situation clearly displayed. This was an FYI, no recommendations about part brands or quality should be taken from this post.

It's kinda odd to see someone else posting pics of my "back yard", haha. It was good to meet you too, Dirty. Hope that column works out for you. Well if you saw a couple scruffy losers and a French chick changing the radiator in a ZJ in the parking lot behind the Husky just off the highway, that was me, haha.

In for the classic look, but out wouldn't be bad if it goes nicely with the paint colour. Might clash a bit depending on how pink the pink is.

People are the worst. It's really difficult to imagine how someone could become an adult without realizing that sort of behaviour is never acceptable, or what sort of mind would believe that could produce a legitimate solution to whatever their problem is. But at the same time I'm a bit excited about those tires. I've been looking at them because that's the size I want to run on my MJ... eventually, and not many are made in that size. My only trepidation is how they'd perform on wintery highways as an MT.

Nope. But it is a feature some decks do have. Even if they aren't hooked into the computer or anything, they could still potentially read rpm in a normal 12V induction spikes from coils firing and adjust volume dependent on rpm. Not that I know for certain there are aftermarket decks that do this, just that it is a fairly common thing that wouldn't be completely ridiculous to implement. But I'm wondering what the OP has going on. No idea what deck he's got, how it's wired, etc.

^^^What he said. For a light to be both the tail light and brake light, it needs two separate circuits to it, powering different elements of the light. You can get trailer light type LED's that will do what you want. Check this out. There's wiring diagrams in it. Also if you ever drive on public roads, you NEED a white reverse light, which I don't see there.

I haven't seen it on aftermarket decks, but it's not uncommon for factory radios to have a "speed-adjusted volume" setting. Basically it gets louder as you go faster, then less loud as you slow down. It's got three settings for how agressively it changes the volume. Since replacing my colander, er, muffler, I've found that the "high" setting got too loud, then too quiet again so I've turned it down to "medium". Might be worth looking through menus, or if you know make/model, finding a manual for the deck online, to see if you have a similar feature.

The smooth one will be better for daily driving, and the agressive one will be better for wheeling or racing but less comfortable on the street. The idea being that smooth won't grab as firmly as the agressive one, allowing greater speed difference between the two wheels. The agressive one will be more, er, agreesive, in its matching wheel speeds. I would guess the agressive one will wear out more quickly too because it's doing more work. My Jimmy has the g80 auto-locking differential. It's not bad, but there's a couple intersections in town where the roads come together at about a 45° angle, and unless I creep around them really slowly, the diff locks and spins the inside tire and I just feel like a moron. My choice would be a gear-driven limited slip, but they do tend towards the expensive side.

Low fuel light blinked at me a couple times on the way home, gas gauge right at 1/4, so I got gas. Downloaded the Fuelly app, added the ZJ. That's roughly 50/50 city/highway, although much of the "highway" is narrow twisty mountain pass type stuff, with a 40 mph speed limit, which I was responsibly exceeding. I'm happy with that number.

When my fuel pump went initially I started noticing issues above 3000rpm, getting worse and worse. I was on a road trip through the middle of nowhere and by the time I was stopping at every single parts store to try to find a new pump, I was struggling for 2000rpm. I could still hit 60mph, it just took a looooooooong time. Right before I changed it as fast as I could do was almost a minute to get to 30mph. But it still would get to 60 if I was incredibly gentle with the skinny pedal.

Sounds a lot like when my fuel pump died. It was much better when the truck was cold but got worse as it heated up over the course of a day.

The Lada 1.7 is a slightly oversquare (short-stroke) engine, and was developed by boring out the slightly undersquare 1.6L which is pretty much a 60's era OHC 4-banger, from 3.11 to 3.23" (3.15" stroke). So yeah, completely different animal. 9k is probably asking a bit much from it but it will hit 8000rpm before the computer figures things out if you stomp on it in low-range 1st gear. That said, I have no qualms hitting 4500+ rpm with a 4.0. Would I do it all day every day? Nah, what's the point? But with bigger, better quality bearings in it and a timing chain that doesn't require manual re-tensioning every oil change, I see no reason it won't survive. They're pretty popular in LeMons racing because of their power and reliability (and ease of finding cheap replacements), which says a fair bit about the engine. Racing reliable is not the same as street reliable. Now I have actually killed a 4.0, but that was a 300,000 mile engine with a history of low oil pressure that spent a good half-hour at WOT on the highway. It still ran and drove (and did another forty miles at 80mph to make it to where I was going), just sounded like someone trying to break into a submarine with a jackhammer. Arguably that's a case for just-because-you-can-doesn't-mean-you-should, but I pretty frequently hit 4000+ rpm merging onto the highway because when you're turning left from a stop sign across the two-lane highway that is the second-busiest pass through the Canadian Rockies, you don't just poke along when you find an opening. Doesn't bother me none.

Meanwhile we had to send the plows out last weekend because of snow on the higher elevations. Hopefully everyone is managing to stay cool out there.

Meh. The Niva runs 4500rpm at 60mph and doesn't seem any the worse for it. If the manufacturer didn't want it revving the high they would've out the redline lower. The Lada lump hits fuel cutoff at 6500rpm but will rev far beyond that if you surprise it.