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A-man930

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Everything posted by A-man930

  1. Before anyone asks, the water came in with the engine at pretty high revs, so I'm thinking pulling the plugs before to clear the water would not have helped. I'm very grateful that this thing didn't decide to grenade itself in the hours I drove it. Upon disassembly, the damage was confirmed to be isolated to cylinders 3, 5 and 6. No visible damage to the crankshaft, minimal scuffing in the bores, and no scary debris in the pan or oil pump.
  2. Been driving it for about a week and over 600 miles, so I feel like I can show this off now. I took the wife's JK through a river crossing too fast and drowned the aftermarket cold air kit with a big ol' splash of water. She shut down immediately. After restarting, we drove in an hour home with a slight noise audible. Drove it the next morning to church before I decided to pull the pan and inspect. Turns out we bent three connecting rods.
  3. That rear suspension setup is a new one on me. *starts researching
  4. I've been chewing on this for a bit. You've put my concerns into words. On your brother's rig, how much of this would have been happening anyways? How hard is it wheeled? Explain what you mean by "perpendicular ties"
  5. Scored a helluvuh deal on some 16" travel 2.0 Kings. 14" would have sufficed, but a deal is a deal!
  6. You've taken a three planet carrier and machined it to accept six? You're my hero. Totally doing this.
  7. Well thanks for the compliment, but sometimes I'd like to trade "amazing work" for "actually driving". Good work on yours, I'm jealous of how much you're getting done. And I've broken plenty of tools on these machines!
  8. I did similar for my doubler mount: https://comancheclub.com/topic/44929-1990-short-bed-resto-tdi-3-link-coilovers-doubler-jk-axles/?do=findComment&comment=739412
  9. Got her all welded up. With help, we managed to keep it straight!
  10. All tacked up. The horizontal piece across the bottom is a temporary brace that'll get cut off after finish welding.
  11. Added a little meat to the top of the frame.
  12. Looks great! I'm betting the CAD made the fit up easier
  13. Yes. Gravity didn't allow me to mock those up.
  14. Mocked up the basics.
  15. I'm all but convinced I'm going to weld it. Thanks.
  16. Good point. There is a lot of reinforcing already:
  17. How much does the cab flex relative to the chassis? What are the consequences of bracing the back of the cab? I’ll start with the disclaimer that I am not building a proper roll cage – I’m approaching this as a “cab saver” that could probably save my life in a pinch. This means that there are compromises from structural “ideals” in the name of aesthetics. Here are my requirements: Minimal “verticals” to sit outboard of the body. Bed will be in the factory position (I am open to a < 1/2” adjustment rearward by slotting the bolt holes on the chassis side.) Bed will have a tonneau cover; no pass throughs into the bed. My solution for the rear is a lower support structure fabricated from .188” wall 2x1 rec tubing. This will sandwich between the cab and the bed and provide “perches” below the rear glass for the tubular cage. It will tie into my tube rockers and the top of the frame rails. What I can't decide is if I should I weld this structure to the back of the cab, or leave it freestanding. I'm prone to weld it, but should I worry about inducing some kind of stress elsewhere? In a "lean against a a tree" scenario, am I asking to bust the glass out? At full flex, will the welds to the rockers and the frame be stressed and crack?
  18. I've embraced the reality that moisture (and dirt) will almost always find it's way into places like this. Might as well reduce the weight, strengthen the part, and enhance the sexy factor with a dimple
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