A-man930

Remember that, after this is all done, you should apply a cavity wax and some kind of lanolin-based undercoat like FluidFilm or Surface Shield. The undercoat does have to be periodically reapplied in high wear areas, but it does seem to be the ultimate final step in Rust prevention.

The HF blast cabinet is much, much better once you do the commonly documented upgrades to the dust extraction, lighting, and pickup tube.

Good work and good attitude.

Our radiators are a funny size; short and wide. Look into the OE 4cyl and diesel configurations for ideas.

Can you share a picture of this?

Remote reservoirs.

Same interest here.

Visual inspection looks good. Does the bolt look worn out? However, wiggling joints with your hands is next to pointless unless the joint is totally trashed. Get a partner to cycle the wheel back and forth with the weight on the tires. Observe and feel each joint in the entirety of the suspension and steering. It takes 5 minutes.

Torqued to spec is nice, but if the tapers are trashed it doesn't matter. Have you done a dry park test yet?

I bet you've got it fixed.

I've honestly forgotten which side of the OE track bar has the bolted bushing versus the tapered stud rod end/ ball joint. Make sure you get a good visual on both. Look up how to do a dry park test. You will need someone at the steering wheel for this - it's the closest you can get to replicating the true forces applied during use because you're involving the weight of the vehicle and the torque multiplication of the steering wheel and box. Checking by hand only, as you're describing or otherwise, leaves room for doubt.

Describe how you are checking.

The things our society throws away...

I get it. Just trying to help you avoid more round and round. Just a dumb "gut feel", but I don't think caster is your issue. I bet you've wallored-out a taper somewhere or the frame-side track bar mount.

I was asking for data on your "caster was the issue on the JK" @eaglescout526 you need to clear these up before I get off this horse... Don't just tighten them. Remove them and inspect the female tapers. Also, have you done all 3 of the shakedown checks I described?

What data do you have to support this claim? (Not trying to be snarky)

Same. My MJ back in the day was less than perfect at many stages and it never gave me any trouble. Something about the JK makes it extra sensitive. However, all of the principles apply.

I've been down the path you're describing. Add in the reality that every death wobble "event" is extremely stressful on the entirety of the steering and front suspension system and it becomes an expensive chicken and egg situation. I want to agree with you on the tires, but my experience (on my wife's JKU) began with all steering TREs and went on to include overkill measures like a track bar relocation bracket, adjustable upper control arms and a drag link flip. Every other one of your listed components checked good multiple times. New tires fixed it. I'd wager that, in practice, there is enough slop in the design for tires alone to induce the phenomenon. /hijack If I'm understanding the OP's current state correctly, he's chasing the wrong rabbit changing springs and caster angle when he really needs to first get a thorough shakedown and properly tighten the front end.

If the shimmy happens to match the resonant frequency of the front end, it can run away. It was a surprise to me too. 100%fixed with only a tire change.

I used to be in this camp until I finally had one episode that originated from tires. There was no perceivable out of balance condition, but they turned out to be the cause. I would hope that a road force balance check would identify this, unfortunately, I was never able to see this confirmed. I just changed the tires out because there was a good sale

Use more than one method for checking for loose steering components: - on Jack stands, left and right by hand - vehicle weight on tires, dry park test. Put your hand on every component. - check axial play with large channellocks. At the end of the day, none of these checks will fully replicate the forces applied when you hit a bump at speed. Specifically, you need to get a visual on both sides of track bar mounting.

In approximate order of likelihood: 1. Tie rod tapers being loose - hopefully they're not damaged now. 2. Slotted-out track bar mounting 3. Tires. Remember this reality: the hardest part on a car to diagnose is the NEW one.

I did coax her into helping.

Those were most definitely NOT her words. They went something more like "you're using your project money for this, dummy!"

After some back and forth with a Chrysler Master Tech friend of mine, I decided it was a safe bet to try a minimalist repair: Three new pistons, 3 used rods, a full set of rod bearings and piston rings, head gaskets, timing cover gaskets, windage tray bolts, and a handful of new lash adjusters and rockers. I touched the scuffed areas of the bores with some 400 Grit, washed it out, cleaned up the three pistons to be reused, and put her back together.