A-man930

Go with the older turbo; it's a no-brainer in my mind. Spend that money on other parts of the truck that undoubtedly need attention.

I've spent the last 10 min looking at the different exhaust manifolds out there (1Z/AHU/AAZ etc). Would not us Jeep guys benefit from one of the "top mount" exh. manifolds so the turbo isn't down in the mud or water??

This Whitebread guy keeps popping up everywhere it seems. Is he doing the engine work at his place?

The original diagrams you've drawn up will likely be your best choice for the switches you have; the aftermarket one probably has an LED as the backlight and therefore probably won't light up if you try and use it on the ground side as some have suggested. Following the switch manufacturer's advice is probably the best choice here (although for the record, I too try to switch the ground side of circuits where possible to avoid hot wires running all over the place). In my opinion it's ideal to fuse them separately, but it is common to do this. Watch your terminology here; good switches draw nothing. The relay's coil between 85 & 86 should be the only "draw" in the switched circuit and yes, at 60-120Ω at ~14v it'll be less than 1a of current. It all looks good, go for it!

No, thank you for the thorough response! With almost 400k on this engine I really don't have a lot of confidence in the turbo on my ALH (VNT15 I assume) so I'll probably be replacing it during the swap. What the replacement turbo is exactly is up in the air at this point... I'd be interested to know what modifications are needed. Will the ALH ecu be able to control it? Does it still bolt up to the head? Is the EGR port still in the correct location? Will any of this fit in our engine bay whilst using EVguy's mount arrangement? Don't feel obligated to answer here and clog up this thread but you've piqued my interest for sure. Keep it up! :thumbsup:

Is this the VNT17 I keep hearing about?

I'm gonna take it you mean .001" undersize to compensate for a bit of journal wear? Oversize would be used if the big ends of the rods were worked on...

Why exactly do you say this? I've been considering going to CVs but only in the name of the NP247 in my basement...

Good deal! I'm gonna keep an eye out for one of these things.

Excellent. Although your review has convinced me further that I'd really rather not amplify speaker-level signals :)

So is there not a way to intercept the signal before its amplified? Well, there's a way, but it'll require picking off the L/R audio channels before they go to the radio final amp stage and wiring them out to RCA chassis jacks. I was going to say that and it's maybe something worth pursuing, but it's hardly a practical solution for the home gamer that just wants an original looking dash. Since this is a more technical thread, I probably should figure it out and report back. Truthfully, though, if you're going that far, even as someone who hates aftermarket radios I think you're probably better off getting one. At this point I'm just guessing but I think you could tap the pre-amp signals from the same board that has the aux input pins at one of two connectors (you'll want the signal right after it passes through the volume and tone controls). I need to get my hands on another deck that I don't mind screwing up for experimentation purposes. Hard to find these things in junkyards these days. I'm only curious and interested in doing this for the sake of the look of the factory unit. An aux. input and ability to use a readily available 2 or 4 ch. amplifier w. a crossover would have me making the jump. I do indeed hate the cheesy aftermarket headunits in our dash.

So is there not a way to intercept the signal before its amplified?

Damnit now I'm gonna start searching for a radio. Any walk through on how to hookup to an external amplifier?

Nothing like ASSuming right? lol

Good to see some documentation here on CC. Get that kitchen done!

Nice build dude.

It's SOA time! http://i.imgur.com/vXf6L0Gh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/p0ymehbh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/p6adTEzh.jpg

I ended up buying a stick of this stuff from mcmaster carr for the rebound clips. Time will tell if its hard enough, but it won't rust!

Well I had a crappy time with the sandblaster, forgot to apply the primer, and decided to just slop the stuff all over them instead... but they're done! Hopefully the stuff holds up.

We're kindred spirits with the wiring mate. Excellent build.

Are these upgrade parts or factory? Seems like the TDi crowd likes to smoke clutches.

It'll be in a WK not a WJ, but yes an entire powertrain swap would be your most realistic bet. I just wonder how difficult it will be to fool the theft deterrent... The CDI (engine controller) will no doubt need to communicate with the instrument cluster, ignition switch, etc. and who knows if anybody out there fools with the software on that... I can't recall how wide the engine is; its a weirdo 72* design so height might be more of an issue than the width.

That's an OM642 iirc. Not sure how many have tried to swap one of those. The computer side of that might be the toughest part...

Well I'll be doing this. Good writeup!