WahooSteeler

Never knew there was a specific option referencing the pin-striping around the door windows. Figured it was a dealer add-on. I have that on my 88 Laredo.

Looking for a replacement low profile tow mirror arm. The top swivel broke on one of them while removing this weekend for a project. Only need one but happy to take the pair if anybody has them. Don't need the mirrors but open to taking those too if someone only prefers to sell the whole thing. Would need them shipped to VA, I have a biz FedEx account. Thanks!

I always liked the look of the Frontier, I had a Pathfinder of the same style for a company car for a few years, really like the motor. What do you know about the tranny problems the Frontier had for awhile when this model it came out in 2005? I would assume you have not had any real trouble being that you tow a heavy trailer full time and that you were willing to buy another one. I have thought about helping my son get a used one when I take the MJ back from him in a couple years LOL.

Fantastic looking MJ!

I have new power window regulators waiting to swap in as my OEM units are getting slower and slower. That said, I notice on the replacement units the snake has felt intertwined with the metal snake coil. Is it ok to lube that with grease or some other kind of oil lube? Seems like it was designed NOT to be lubed as the felt would break down I would think. I also saw a post on one of the FB Comanche/Cherokee pages where a guy added a 19v step-up converter in-line to his power windows and they zipped up and down super fast. The converter was only @$20 on Amazon. Anybody familiar with this mod?

Fair and valid point Pete. Just didn't need the extra comment about adding on to an old thread.

Agreed. People complain about redundant questions on a new thread and tell you to use the search feature, then when you do other people ride you about bringing up an old thread. Damned if you do, damned if you don't. I recently had stalling issues and used the search to find LOTS of threads on the issue, as is often the case, and was fortunate to find one that addressed my exact symptoms, but the source of my problem and the fix was different than others in that thread. So instead of starting another thread I just posted to the old one to "update" it, IMO. I'd personally rather only have to sort through a few ongoing threads, even if it is pages long, than to have to sort through 25 threads (and that's no exaggeration sometimes) related to my problem. jdog, since you offered no input to Tom's issue, I see no reason for you to comment at all that he added to an old thread. Doesn't affect you at all.

Craigslist and FB Marketplace also, and as Pete said they're never close by of course!

Yup, was in good shape

Daeson, very sorry to hear this. You have been a great help to me on some parts and info. Cheers to your health and return to work ASAP!

The coolest part to me is the 2 stroke 3 cyl diesel. Little coal burnin' screamer!

https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/lake-city-jeep-m679-military-ambulance/7085663354.html

???!!!! I just explained what the issue was........clogged EGR transducer. Injectors are fine.

Instead of starting a new thread, I decided to add to this one as it is right in line with what I found to be my stalling issues. One of the things that can be so frustrating about these trucks is that there's never just 1 or 2 possible reasons for certain issues, it always seems like there's 5, 6 or even more potential causes for a performance problem. Anyhoo, I used the search function to read several different threads about stalling issues. The symptoms on this thread were basically identical to mine; truck would start no problem, sometimes would go to high idle, then more so lately once up to temp it would just stall at idle or when lifting on the throttle for more than a few seconds, which I had never experienced before. Under power/acceleration, no issues, would run fine with no real hiccups. So here is what I have identified and done to solve the problem: Background Have done Cruiser's tips 1, 3, 4, 8*, 11, 31 PO had removed 3 prong connector on TPS and hardwired the wires, so no way to test TPS Recently installed bored TB from MeanLemons, cleaned IAC at that time Had recently installed Bosch 746 injectors New front/left vacuum lines Troubleshooting Cut hardwiring to TPS and wired in 3 prong male plug to new Mopar TPS, adjusted to proper setting; better idle initially, then stalling when warmed up Visual inspection of vacuum lines for cracks/leaks; appeared to be leak around base of EGR valve at block Changed out EGR valve with used (but confirmed operational) unit from Cruiser, cleaned surface area & added high temp Permatex; no real change Opened EGR transducer for inspection, no tears in rubber diaphragm observed, put diaphragm back together Also had bought used replacement EGR solenoid and transducer from Cruiser, both OEM, for potential swap out As recommended in this thread, removed elbow connection vacuum line from EGR solenoid, started and idled no problem Re-attach elbow connection vacuum line to EGR solenoid and immediately stalls Swap out EGR solenoid for used replacement, same results, elbow connection removed idles fine, attach elbow connection and it stalls immediately Swap out EGR transducer for used replacement, idles smooth with elbow connection removed, NO STALL when attaching elbow connection Re-open original EGR transducer, remove rubber diaphragm, observe vacuum hole under diaphragm clogged with carbon/oil Clean original EGR transducer plastic top and vacuum hole with carb cleaner, also cleaned out bottom plastic part of transducer . I did NOT clean rubber diaphragm with anything, fearful carb cleaner might eat through it or trying to wipe it might tear it. Put transducer back together. Re-installed original EGR transducer, started and idled fine with elbow connection removed, reattached elbow connection vacuum line to EGR solenoid, DID NOT STALL and idles excellent, better than it has in quite some time! Pictures show the 3 parts to the transducer: top, rubber diaphragm, bottom in that order from left to right. So long story short, this seems like it could be a common culprit to idling and stalling issues, and fortunately can be an easy fix. FYI, if you take apart your transducer be very gentle when doing so, you don't want to potentially tear the diaphragm or break off one of the tabs on the bottom piece that clamps the housing together. These are not sold anymore and EGR valves themselves seem to have been discontinued for the Renix era 4.0L. For now, I've got 2 good EGR valves and transducers so hopefully I'm good for awhile.

Thanks!

Ahhhh!! Or the keypad to punch in your time destination and return date!

I definitely am voting for the musical horn. I'm sure if someone hooks up a battery and punches in 001 it will play Dixie, or 002 La Cucaracha!!

https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/jeep-4-0l-vs-4-6l-stroker/?wc_mid=4035:18781&wc_rid=4035:34950555&_wcsid=12CEADA9231090A94F326B305BDD961C2E93E02D2A2DC5E4

I think his price is very realistic and worth every penny plus a few nickels!

Wow..... https://lakeland.craigslist.org/cto/d/eagle-lake-1987-jeep-comanchee/7091576834.html

I assume it fit properly?

Thanks Eagle for the description, and Wounded for the pic. I know the part you are talking about now, good to know to lubricate this.