WahooSteeler

Pike, this is correct and I researched the crap out of it before I did it. I have done this on mine with these parts. You'll also need (s) ES2079S sleeves for both your tie rod and drag link (tie rod end). ES3096L will require (2) pieces also.

Pete, it's the tie rod that's interchangeable without any issues. You can use a ZJ GC drag link, but it has slightly different geometry than the MJ/XJ and some have reported some steering issues based on lift etc. The late model XJs offered the same thickness/diameter drag link but with XJ/MJ geometry. DS1238 is the XJ beefy replacement vs DS1310 for the ZJ V8 version.

Didn't try that. Are those at the frame side of the mounts? Plus, I have at least 3.5" if not a hair more.

Had to swap out my WJ lca's and go to longer units when I went to @3.5" lift, so getting rubbing again particularly when turning sharp left. Best way to eliminate this? I know there is a way to extend the steering stops or add wheel spacers. Looking at 1" and 1.25" spacers, do either of these require cutting down the stock wheel studs because the spacer is that narrow? Definitely don't want to cut the stock studs. Running 31s on Ravines, new wheels with less back spacing not in the budget.

Agree 100%

I learned the hard way a few times a while ago.......rely on the part description more than the picture. "Door latch plug".

Yeah, WJ arms won't work properly above 3" lift. If you think you may want to go with more than 4"+ lift in the future, adjustables make sense, otherwise there are less expensive options for fixed lowers that work up to 4" of lift. Your stock uppers should work up to 4" I believe, don't hold me to it.

The 33s on that XJ look like they are on 15x10 wheels, and are very likely to rub unless they have very little backspacing. 33x12.50s need <4" of backspacing I believe to avoid any rubbing with 4.5" of lift.

Chevy 307 V8 powered ....... dig it https://barnfinds.com/v8-powered-1960-jeep-fc-170-4x4/?fbclid=IwAR2uOxm8eAWMHUi41kV2tZ5_rzupJh90qTYD-nY2kJ2XeaGLXXI8SQ1d1IQ

What I don't get is they say it's dirty and will clean up but I'm not cleaning it Agreed. If you want top dollar, it's got to look like top dollar! Also cracks me up how people will have parts lying in brush and 2ft tall grass untouched for years and want market price. And my all time favorite is older vehicles for sale that say "was running when parked"! Umm, then why did you park it 20yrs ago?!

Where do some of these people come up with their prices??!! And the pictures? "I'm just going to sit this down out here in the dirt and snap off a few quality pics to help it sell"....WTH??

Laughing at myself because many times I will post a question basically being lazy and looking for the quick answer instead of researching on my own. Then an idea will pop in my head on how to quickly find the answer. I jumped on FB marketplace and searched XJ's starting with 1993 and sure enough there are plenty of pre-'97s with the rubber gasket so even if some of them had metal trim and replaced with rubber, it seems to be good from at least '94 on.

Yeah, I'm trying to confirm if they are the same for all XJ years once they switched over to the rubber gasket/molding. I believe that was in '94 but want to confirm. Found a brand new one on FB for cheap. I have the "chrome" trim and I like the way it looks, but unfortunately it does nothing to keep the elements out at all.

Does it matter what year Cherokee the rubber windshield surround molding is from?

https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/harbor-freight-recall-jackstands-collapse/?ServiceType=facebook_page&TheTime=2020-05-19T23%3A00%3A12&UniqueID=7EC4748E-9A24-11EA-8E3A-80CAC28169F1&ftag=COS-05-10aaa0a&PostType=link&fbclid=IwAR3c8anG6iwgHA8nbBxOybwQ0hzZwPqg80XE9zJRg56rIJgOFz3epdvXZqU

55002368.........Mopar Parts Giant has them in stock, $4.88. Probably because they are shared with none other than ......... PT Cruisers 2001-2010. Just learned that on the lookup. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-plug-door-latch~55002368.html and Vintage Parts will save you 38 cents! 39 in stock https://www.vpartsinc.com/2800-55002368

IIRC it took me a bit of searching to find it originally.......doesn't help that "Precision" is not in the web address https://www.prp.com/

OC is a retailer, Precision is the mfr and is known for pretty good products that fit well too. They make all kinds of replacement body parts, trim etc. You can actually go to Precision's website and browse everything the make. I got my floorpans from them.

That's TheDude's listing......

LMAO.......guess I could have looked at my own photo! In my defense, I was looking for the picture as a thumbnail in a folder with lots of pictures, no way I would have seen the date until I posted. Still.......duh!

Add me to the "another MJ" list. This was probaby 10yrs ago. Bought the 87 Laredo for a steal, salvaged the good seat covers, some trim pieces and a few other parts and sold it @4 months later.....made $700.

I was thinking right in this price range. I will probably start on the worst wheel myself and see how much time it takes to clean it up and restore it. I know it's a process. Thanks

I've got a set that I've thought about powder coating. Do you mind sharing what that cost you? Just trying to get a ballpark. Thanks......

Minuit, I have a new regulator in my pass side, cleaned the switch, rubber mounting block thing best i could and put new connectors on the regulator end since OE does not fit aftermarket connector. Still slow...........recommendations? Also, why would you lube the worm gear? It has felt in between the coils and comes w/out any kind of lube on it. Seems counter-intuitive to lube that.