WahooSteeler

But were these Metric Ton springs?

That is crazy cool!

Thanks, yours looks great also, love the Turbines. That "diaper" is factory, I took mine off a while ago as it was down to bits and pieces like yours. You can actually still get those, still some out there as NOS.

I had hoped to be able to get the rust over the wheel wells repaired and the truck finally repainted this summer, but can't financially justify that right now. Plus my son will be taking it back to school in the fall as his DD so I'll wait until he graduates and I take the truck back to take that plunge. I'm sure it's going to pick up more dings and dents in the next few years. That said, I'm going to go ahead and do the front flares and lower air dam soon to at least get a consistent look. That's black primer on the bottom from when I had rust repaired a while back. I asked the shop to tint the primer black so I could see if I liked that combo better than the factory argent/gray trim. Believe it or not, the hood, a-pillars and roof are also tinted primer. The clear coat was all gone and aside from looking ragged the hood and roof were starting to pit and rust so I wanted to address it before it got worse with not knowing when I'd actually be able to repaint the whole truck. This way it would at least look relatively decent from 20ft LOL. I like the black two-tone, and have even considered a full two-tone with black on the top and bottom and burgundy down the middle. But, when I ever get around to painting it I'm pretty sure I'm going back to the factory color combo with the argent/gray lowers and flares. Lots of black and red trucks out there from the 80s and 90s but not many with burgundy and gray. I think it's a nice contrast and I like the factory look of it. I have the Laredo lower rubber trim stored that I would also reapply to stay as close to the factory look as possible. And I have a set of Turbines just in case.

Tim, I am finishing up doing this on mine and a couple comments to offer: As mentioned above, the power locks are slow no matter what, the passenger side especially. I cleaned the switch mounting block with copious amounts of electric contact cleaner, brushed and sanded the switch posts, opened the switch itself and cleaned all contact points, and cleaned the connectors at the actuator. I had bought new actuators thinking that was the problem but it's the same with the OE or the new one. I thought maybe one of the rods had a slight bend in it but after reading this thread it appears the slowness is "just how it is". I'll probably add Minuit's mod to the long list of "to do's", but since they work that will be on the "want to" list and not the "have to" or "need to". Pretty much the exact same thing with the passenger window regarding cleaning of switches and contacts. It was super slow and I assumed the motor was also worn out. Also the rubber sheath that protects the worm gear when it is extended was somehow missing and the metal on the gear was a bit rusty and the felt worn out. So I replaced it with an aftermarket one and while it certainly is quicker, it was not what I expected. On a side note, my OE regulator has what I would consider an unusual bend in it that I wonder if it contributed to that one being slow. All that said, Minuit, what do you think of this mod I ran across on an XJ page on FB? 19v converter the guy put in line for his windows. $20 part on Amazon.

Cruiser, I found that photo from another thread you posted it on and took it to the shop owner when I dropped it off, plus some pictures of actual switches mounted that I found on cherokeeforum. Thanks!

Finally got a couple pics...........

Switch was indeed installed incorrectly with longer "half moon" or open side facing outward instead of up against the brake pedal arm. Another wire had slipped off but the incorrect mounting was affecting the angle of the switch with the pedal stroke. Glad it was fairly simple.

If anybody runs 5w50 oil, Napa has Mobil 1 on sale at $5.99/qt right now

Thanks Ohm. I just came in from messing around with it. Of the 3 wires shown, which excludes the pink wire that was connected to the bottom prong, I did not try to use the brown connector yet, the one on the left with the black wire that was spliced to a blue wire with black stripe does not fit any of the prongs, the spade on it is too narrow. The blue wire with white stripe and elbow connector I tried in all 4 positions while doing the same with the existing connected red wire but no joy. I HAVE determined that it was installed upside down, which may affect the angle and/or contact points of the switch completing the circuit. Since one pair of prongs is to activate the brake lights and the other pair is to deactivate cruise, I am assuming it does not matter which prongs you use for each function. FWIW, the side with the "half circle" should be closest to the brake pedal with the open part facing down, and it is also slightly longer than the side with the hole. While researching I came across a thread on Cherokee forum indicating trouble with getting the switch in the right position. I'm gonna let the shop twist themselves up under the dash instead of me since I've already paid for the repair, fortunately the owner is really good about standing behind their work and will get it right. Picture of 4 prong (switch for MJ/XJ with CC).....

Ok, thanks. I'll check it, but I'm confident it is good as I refreshed it when I put in a rebuilt fuel pump last fall.

And this is separate from the fuel pump ground, correct?

Took truck in for inspection a couple weeks ago, shop called and said brake lights not working. When I picked it up, the owner, who usually is the one that works on my truck, said he was tied up doing other work so he had another guy do it. Only thing it needed was a new brake light switch. A few days later I was behind my son while he was driving it and the brake lights were not working. Stopped in the shop at the end of the day and the guy who worked on got under the dash and said a wire was loose, sure enough they worked. A couple days later I was driving it at night and noticed in my side view mirror they were not working again. As I looked up under there tonight, I find 2 new wires hanging I don't recall disconnected before. The brake switch only has 1 red wire connected to it. There are 4 prongs, 2 pointing towards the driver and 2 pointing to the passenger side. The red wire is on the top prong of the pair facing the passenger side. I know in this picture the brown connector is supposed to go to the brake switch, but as you can see it only has 1 red wire. What wires go to the 4 prongs? I have cruise but it does not work fyi. I plan to take it back to the shop tomorrow but if this is a 2 minute fix I will do it myself. I stopped in Friday and the owner said bring it this week and he would spend some time with it to see what the other guy did. The wire on the left is actually a short piece of black wire spliced in to blue wire, but they is very likely from the PO who was the king of splice and tap all over the truck. *Also.......all other lights work, turn, running lights, hazards, fuse is good. Edit original post that single red wire is attached to BOTTOM prong facing passenger side. And while I'm at it, where is the ground for the tail light harness supposed to be? Manuals seem to indicate it being somewhere on the driver's side frame but I have never been able to locate it.

A Levi's CJ-5 with a 304 V8 and less than 40k on it............IMO he'd get more than the $7k asking price if he took that CABin off the damn thing!

Hope the link works........it's in St Croix County Buy/sell/wanted Facebook group. Looks excellent! https://www.facebook.com/groups/713429305371404/

https://barnfinds.com/low-mileage-chalet-1977-chevrolet-blazer-cheyenne/?fbclid=IwAR2bKt9sUr4Z_-NCbhSGaXqjD3GjSIt8RxgHeWZA72vMDYeJABiba0qC4G8

Have you disconnected your IAC while running to see if idle changes at all? Also, check your exhaust manifold bolts for looseness. I had similar idle issues and on another "Idle problems" thread here saw someone mention this. Sure enough all of my bolts took a couple turns and at least 2 of them took several turns to get good and tight. Idle is now consistent 750-900. On another note, really helps if you put a signature on your account with year, engine & trans info at the least as it helps people make suggestions that may be model specific.

After light sanding with very fine grit I wiped mine down with rubbing alcohol.

https://greatfalls.craigslist.org/cto/d/lewistown-1991-jeep-comanche-3300-obo/7118214070.html

I resemble that remark! LOL

Can anybody confirm if the factory front skid plate fits w/out interference from sway bar drop brackets?

May depend on which text message app he uses though? I just remembered that I think I use one that is not the standard Samsung text app, although IIRC the one I use was also pre-installed because I definitely don't recall downloading it.

Jeff, I have an S7 so hopefully still similar to how it works on your S9. When I get spam texts, open the text, upper right hand corner should be 3 dots for "menu", then down near the bottom it has "Block Number" and will then also give you the option to "delete this conversation". Hope it works....

Beautiful truck!

Looking for passenger side A-pillar trim in cardovan/maroon/burgundy preferably, but willing to take a different color and paint. Will also purchase driver side if available as a set. Thanks!