WahooSteeler

dragon, i've seen those cupholders you are talking about on ebay. i want to switch over to those also from the one in front of the console lid, just haven't bought one yet. about $20 i believe, so a trip to the JY first would probably be worthwhile.

was that an old trail 70 honda i saw in the one picture?

yes, no numbers showing at all. i know what you're saying about seeing the numbers in the right light. it would just piss me off that right after i pull apart the dash and put in a new bulb the actual clock goes. but more importantly, it was working right before i pulled the fuse and replaced it, and it was the correct amp fuse, i.e. not like it was a 30amp in place of the 10 and fried it. pissed............

P :D I :D C :D T :D U :D R :D E :D S

your rig has come a long way and looks great. not that it looked bad, it just looks really nice now. nice score on the bumper.

selling the RE lower arms?

I've been slowly working my way through the dash replacing bulbs and generally just exploring to learn. Yesterday, I was pulling and replacing fuses while working on the radio. When I pulled the one for the clock and put it back, the clock did not work. It has power because the bulb lit up, you know, the one I excitedly replaced a few weeks ago that gave me a simple pleasure to have the clock work. So, hopefully someone can tell me there is a simple reset button or function. I tried pushing the hour and minute adjusters but otherwise did not see anything else.

Geo, it took me awhile to figure that also LOL. What threw me off was the "long" block. I might have made more sense if it was a short block and a "tall" block IMO.

Welcome to the "Honey, I'll be off of here in a minute" site! Very nice score for sure. Glad to hear it's a nice as it looked. Keep us posted on any changes.

a ha.....after the first issue, and definitely by the second, the classifed would read "sold as is..."

look at my link above for pics, but it does not look like you have the cylinder that holds the light. it clips on to the cig lighter and has a metal sleeve with just a hole at the end that directs the light inside your cig lighter and around the green trim. the metal to metal of the sleeve clipped to the cig lighter housing acts as the ground, i.e. it will not light up when unclipped from the cig lighter.

now THAT is funny! :rotfl2:

CJ-10 I believe.

i thought about it more though, if he did that it would have said auction ended early by seller. looks like ebay pulled it.

it's funded by the people who say it! that's my point, i should charge them LOL. so say it all you want, i'll be glad to take your 75 cents!

I'm going to start the "if i was closer" retirement fund. Every time someone on here says "it i was closer" or "if it was closer", I get a dollar. I'll be retired in, ohhhh, 16-18 months LOL. :brows:

........hence why he made the decision now. i think he's forgiven for the fence jumping after last year, and he did it right this time...............if it's legit.

Yup, and always fun to watch again.

Maybe I could get one and when Wifey pisses me off, instead of yelling or getting in an argument, I just laze up my forehead and point the temp readout towards her. As she sees the numbers start ticking like pennies on a fuel pump, maybe she'll stop pissing me off in fear I'll blow up LOL :jump:

Justin, you didn't take any pics of "The MJ Cube" post-crush did you? Talk about driving the stake in the heart, that would have been hilarious!

Wow, ok this is weird. I read all of the listing then click "ask seller a question" to find out shipping to me as I'm only about 4hrs away. It pops up "question form unavailable at this time". I click back to item description and it says "this listing has been removed". WTF? Diesel, parts galore and another set of the hunter plaid maroon buckets! I hope someone didn't talk him in to selling off site!

It's not that the fumes are leaking it's that more air is getting in. Taz, couldn't it be vapor lock and therefore the ECU is whacked out on fuel/air mixture? Kid45, I assume your truck is injected? Before I ran a commercial truck fleet I ran a large car fleet, and we had some that were very sensitive to loose fuel caps, Volvo in particular. If it got vapor lock, check engine came on and they ran so crappy they couldn't get ouf their own way.

Uh Beavis, like, all you need to do is go to the home page and start the search over or something, huh huh, huh huh..... http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/ ... ckup.shtml

U-haul tow dollies are $30/day. Not too bad. Or, you could put a hitch on your XJ and fab up a temp pull bar to the MJ and there you have it. Hell, you might be able to find a tow dolly for sale for cheap. If you think you'll need to transport it more than say, 10 times (5 two-way trips), you might be better trying to buy a dolly. I'd think you could get one for $100-200?

Nice find and welcome to The Club! I think you got a hell of a deal for $500! You will find that this site is awesome with a lot of knowledgeable people and a fun place just to chat. A few things to hopefully help out with what you've shown and told us. You have a D35 rear axle, a D30 front, AW4 tranny and NP231 transfer case. With only 117k, you should have over 100k left in that engine. 4.0's are amazing and go forever, and your tranny and trasfer case should give you the same life if they haven't been abused previously. Stories of guys on here w/200k+ miles on original drivetrain (including me!) are a dime a dozen. So, unless there are hidden issues of abuse, I don't think you'll need to worry about replacing them any time soon. Your floorboards look like they could be saved, it doesn't look like they've rusted through. The rest of the body looks pretty doggone good, is there other rust prevalent? Cab corners, rockers, fender wells? Several options if the floorboards need to be replaced. Find a JY donor that doesn't have rust (hard to find that though) and cut out the floor pans to replace yours; have someone just fabricate them for you, or some guys have bought pans from www.shermanparts.com that work fairly well. They are still not a direct fit, but apparently they don't need much in the way of mods or banging. Talk to limeyjeep. As for the headliner, there is a guy on ebay who sells fabric kits for Comanche's for @$35 shipped. If the whole thing is gone altogether, he also sells them for $105 already made up. Again, a couple guys here have bought from him and seem happy. Talk to joshmillslane. On the carpet, you can get pre-molded color matched ones from JC Whitney and several other sites for @$100. Several sites to get that from, just a few below. Don't know of anyone that has bought from any of these. www.StockInteriors.com www.auto-interior.com www.MotorSouthCarpet.com www.autocarpetonline.com www.rockauto.com For interior lights, there are actually some for sale in the classifieds right now. They are somewhat hard to come buy, but pop up here and on ebay every couple of months or so. There is a great thread in Tech I believe on interior lights that blhtaz started and shows aftermarket lights that work well. With your budget, you could have one of the nicest rigs around and most likely you will still have a super nice one for a lot less than that depending on how much you want to do with your drivetrain and suspension when you lift it. Hope some of this helps. 99% of what I've written here I learned here. The #1 request of all us here is to keep us posted on any and all progress WITH PICTURES :laughin: :cheers: