Eagle

How are you bleeding it? The only "trick" I can think of is to NOT pump the peddle vigorously. Pumping just aerates the fluid, and once that happens you'll never get it bled. Are you working alone, or do you have a helper?

Ya know, looking again at your photo -- your factory backup lights look almost like they've been painted over. They should be clear, and in photos they should appear either as white or as silver (depending on the lighting). Have you tried cleaning them up to see if they can be brighter? By the way, you could also check the bulbs to see if they're the correct bulbs. They should be #1156.

I'm 75 years old, Mate. If I live to see that future at all, it'll only be as a passenger.

You can stop holding back, because that's not a factory bumper.

When I was doing the performance car thing. numbers like that were for a muscle car or a drag racer, not a sports car. Sports cars are supposed to be about precise handling and balanced performance, not shredding pavement.

Oh, yeah. I can see hordes of sports car drivers lining up to trade in their sports cars for an electric truck.

SoCalManche, you already have a lengthy thread going to discuss your issue, and you have several people who are trying to help you. There is NOTHING to be gained by dredging up a five-year old thread to ask about the same problem you already have under discussion. I'm closing this thread. If you are asking about a different issue, contact me or one of the other moderators and explain to us why this thread should be reopened.

Having fuel in the throttle body has nothing to do with whether or not the engine turns over. Did you not read the previous posts? This has been explained to you at least twice in this thread. "Turn over" is the same as "crank." It just means that the starter motor is engaged and is making the engine spin. "Turn over" does NOT mean that the engine has started and is running -- even for a couple of seconds.

No, there's no "lol" about it. Either you had death wobble or you didn't, and from your description it sounds like you didn't. There is no "minor" death wobble. Back a decade or so on the NAXJA forum, somebody complained about having his XJ at "the verge of death wobble." The responses he got were the same as the responses you are getting. Death wobble either is ... or it isn't. When it is, it IS. There's no "minor." Death wobble is when the truck is shaking so badly you think the front end will fall off and your teeth will fall out, you don't know if you can even keep it on the road, and the only way to stop it is to slow down either to a complete stop or very nearly to a complete stop ... like around 5 MPH or less. Sorry to make a big deal about it, but diagnosing death wobble is more complicated than diagnosing a minor shimmy. Since you have come here looking for help, it's important for us to properly understand the problem or we'll be handing out advice by the shovelful that may not apply to your problem.

There is no such thing as "minor" death wobble. If it's minor, it's not death wobble. Death wobble is so named because, when it strikes, you aren't afraid you'll die any minute -- you KNOW you're going to die RIGHT NOW!

0:50 Luv it.

The 4.0L never came with any automatic transmission other than the AW4.

Junkyard

Yes.

NO! Do NOT plug #2. Plug #1. #2 is the normal circuit for feeding the rear brakes. If you plug #2 and use #1, you won't have any rear brakes at all.

What you are missing is that your #2 is the normally-open line/circuit that feeds the rear brakes (through the height-sensing valve) under normal operating conditions. Your #1 is the line for the emergency bypass that sends full pressure to the rear brakes (bypassing the height-sensing valve) in the event of loss of the front brakes. Port #1 only sees flow/pressure if the front brakes fail. Note that this photo shows the shuttle valve (that horizontal slider across the top) in the tripped position, as it would be when the front brakes have failed. Under normal conditions, the shuttle valve would be about 1/4-inch to the left, with the left-most O-ring blocking fluid flow to the outlet at the bottom.

This thread is about a no-start condition, and it has been resolved. You'll get more/better answers to your question about a fuel level sender if you start your own thread. I'm closing this one.

Bump steer? Between my XJs and MJs, I must have driven well over a half million miles on the stock steering. I have never experienced a hint of bump steer.

That's definitely not a hack job. Whether or not you like it, it's very well executed. I can appreciate the workmanship, although I don't think I'd care to own it.

Who is this "we" to whom you make reference? I'm not sure, but I sort of think that "we" means Kryptonic and Kryptonic, and his other brother, Kryptonic. Nice work, Amigo. We are in your debt.

Are the pads not retracting, or is the wear only on one pad on each side? Check the caliper mounts. I think I remember someone awhile back posting photos of where the calipers had worn a groove into the slider arm on the bracket, causing the calipers to hang up rather than float. I think he repaired it by welding up the groove and then re-shaping it with a file to the original configuration.

Checked that while playing musical tires. Both wheels spin freely. I think Minuit got it. I have a bag of those shims somewhere. Now it it would just stop raining ...

Because it's their standard protocol when a vehicle is in a front-end collision. They did the same thing with my wife's 2000 XJ (the other 2000 XJ) when the "damage" was just scraped paint.

I know how it's done, but I have never had to do it with an XJ or an MJ.

Your guess is incorrect. I called it a fender bender for a reason -- that's what it was. The damage was sheet metal and a headlight. The factory foglights survived, so you can get an idea of the [lack of] severity of the impact.