Eagle

You call it what the manufacturer called it, and Jeep called it a 1986. Just like my 2000 Cherokee Classic was bought in November of 1999, but Jeep called it a 2000 and it's titled and tagged as a 2000.

I'm familiar with the word "Altruism." Oh, yeah, I know some of the dictionary sites redirect you from "truist" to "altruism." That doesn't mean they're saying the two words are synonymous. That means they think you don't know how to spell "altruism." Some of the also redirect to "trust." Some of them also offer up "truism," which is also a real word.

Good thoughts. I have one child, an adopted daughter who is away at college. I haven't heard from her in two weeks, today is Father's Day, and she hasn't responded to my last three e-mails. You are blessed.

Teach your kids not to chew on windowsills.

According to Merriam-Webster on-line and the Cambridge Dictionary on-line, it's not even a word. God only knows what they think it's supposed to convey ...

The first year for the Comanche was 1986. Are you certain you have a 1985 Jeep Comanche? What engine?

That sounds a lot like a heat pump to me. When was the house built? Just because the most recent paint wasn't lead-based doesn't mean there is no lead paint in the house. Don't get me wrong -- I don't consider lead paint to be a problem unless it's loose, flaking, and peeling. But if you intend to have kids ... kids sometimes chew on woodwork such as window sills. If the original paint was lead-based ... it's still there and a kid could chew through to it. It's just something to be aware of. If the house was built before 1978, it most likely has lead paint.

??? What would that be? Other than a furnace or a boiler, the only "more modern" forms of heat I know of are a heat pump (which is fine in climates where you rarely need heat, but when it gets cold it uses electric resistance heat, which is expensive) and solar. Fumes aren't the issue. The issue is when old lead-based paint flakes, and kids eat the chips.

If it's a 5-speed and the axles hasn't been replaced or regeared, it's 3.08. 55 MPH in 5th gear on stock tires is 1591 RPM, which is well below the torque peak of the engine. That's why it struggles. 5th gear is for cruising on level ground or going downhill. It's completely useless anywhere except on Interstate/limited access highways. If your tires are bigger, it's running at even less RPM. Do you have a tachometer?

A wide open throttle plate only allows high RPM operation, it won't boost performance at low RPM. Think about it -- an engine is basically just an air pump. As each piston goes down on the intake stroke, it sucks air in through the throttle body. At lower RPM you don't need it to be wide open and, in fact, making it open wider than necessary for the amount of air the engine can use doesn't improve performance, it hurts it. It also hurts gas mileage. What's your point about 18-19 MPG? Do you think that's better than it should be, or worse? Lastly, as Dirty Comanche already commented, you don't know anything about how far your throttle is opening. You need to remove the intake hose and look at the position of the throttle plate.

The factory spec for a NEW engine is 13 psi at idle and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. Just about every new 4.0L engine I've seen ran at 50 to 55 psi (hot) at 55 to 60 MPH. If you're getting 11 psi at idle and 40 psi at highway speed on a 29 year old engine, I think you're okay. Have you installed a decent oil filter yet? What weight oil are you running? For an older engine, I would run 10W40 or even 15W50 if you can find it.

That's correct. The factory CPS connects to the ECU through the main wiring harness. This kit bypasses that long run with two wires that go directly through the firewall to the ECU. You could easily make the upgrade yourself by using a connector off an old CPS and just tapping into the two wires at the ECU.

https://www.cheapcheapmovingboxes.com/ https://www.packagingsupplies.com/collections/shipping-boxes https://www.cheapassshippingsupplies.com/

Don't forget the fuse panel. It's a two-piece assembly that goes through the firewall.

Amen, Brother! The new "Gladiator" isn't a pickup truck, and it certainly isn't worthy of carrying the Gladiator name badge. It's an expensive toy for people who have more money than brains.

The factory electrical manual shows only one test for the idiot light. "Touch C307 terminal S to ground." [C307 is the terminal that plugs onto the temperature sender in the left rear corner of the engine.] If the idiot light illuminates, replace the switch (the temp sender). If the light doesn't illuminate but you know the bulb is okay, then you have a broken wire or an open connection between the sender and the bulb. (Could also be a damaged trace on the printed circuit board of the cluster itself.)

That means one of the cables has rusted and is seized up. Crawl underneath and find the equalizer (the yoke thingie where the single cable from the front splits into two cables, one for each rear wheel. There's a long, threaded rod off the end of the front cable. Soak it down with PB Blaster for a couple of days, then loosen it to take the tension off the cables. Once you do that, you'll be able to see which cable is frozen up, and buy a replacement.

Try the HELP! section at your local auto parts emporium. The socket that fits the XJ/MJ front parking lights (and possibly the rear, as well) happens to be a Ford socket.

What you call the "running lights" (that's "taillights" to most of us) should be the lower brightness of the two filaments in the dual-filamant bulb. The single filament bulb should not, under any circumstances, be used for tailights -- it's too bright. The MJ tailights use two dual-filament bulbs on each side (plus a single filament bulb for the backup lights). If you don't need or want to split off the turn signals from the brakes/hazards, then you don't need my diagram. Use the diagram from the '88 MJ electrical manual, and just skip the second wire to the second bulb. Or change the sockets to dual filament and have complete redundancy on both sides.

Tried another scan. This includes the area where the XJ is different from the MJ:

I tried scanning the XJ stop/taillight diagram and splicing the two scans together. It's clear enough, but I couldn't get the two scans to stitch together perfectly. The important part for making an MJ work like an XJ is on the right hand side of the diagram. Let's see how this looks:

I know it's a Ranger bed and tailight. I assumed it was set up for separate turns/hazards, and I so stated a couple or three times. But he stated that both the upper and lower lenses are red -- no amber. And I also explained how to make it work with separate turns/hazards -- modify the MJ wiring to make it like the XJ Cherokee wiring. That's why I posted the Cherokee wiring diagram.

The XJ also used the BA 10/5. Both the XJ and the MJ changed to the AX-15 in the 1989 model year. Remove the switch from the tranny and try pushing the plunger manually. See if the switch works.

Who said anything about leaving something unused? If that's what you got out of what we have posted, I think you're not reading the comments correctly. For clarification, how many bulbs does each of your taillights have -- three, or four? From your original post, I thought you had four -- two dual-filament bulbs behind a red section of lens, then a single filament bulb behind a white/clear section of lens, and then a single-filament bulb behind another red section. Whether you have one or two double-filament bulbs in the upper section, that or those was/were originally the tail ("running") lights and the brake lights. The one behind the white/clear lens is obviously the backup light. And the lone single-filament bulb at the bottom was originally the turn signal and hazard flasher bulb. If you're just typing into the existing Comanche wiring harness, that won't work so, as I posted above, you can use the bottom single-filament bulb as a second (or third) brake light.

The single filament bulb behind the red (or is it amber?) lens is the turn signal/hazard warning light. Or it should be -- that's the way it was wired in the Ranger. The problem is that the MJ factory wiring doesn't support that. However, as you can see from the wiring diagram, the MJ did use two bulbs on each side for brake/turn/hazard. If you don't want to modify the wiring to make it work as intended, just wire the single filament bulb to the high-intensity filament of the other bulb and you'll get redundant brake/turn/hazard lights. But, if you leave that as a single filament bulb, you won't have redundant running lights. By the way -- we'd like to see pics of the MJ with a Ranger bed on it.