Eagle

If you replace something with a "better part," you haven't deleted anything. You have simply replaced it.

I think it makes perfect sense for fog lights to operate with the parking lights, even if the headlights are off -- but that's not the way AMC/Jeep wired them. The problem with wiring them to the parking lights is that the law requires that fog lights go off when the headlights are switched to high beam. There is a solution to that -- it requires a second relay in the fog light circuit, wired so the fog light circuit is interrupted when the high beams come on.

There's a link to the 1988 electrical manual on this site somewhere. Find that and study it -- the '86 should be pretty much the same, although wire colors might be different. What you need to know is that AMC wired fog lights so that they ONLY come on with the low beam headlights. They did not operate if you only had the parking lights on, and they did not operate when the high beams were on. (That part is federal regulation -- fog lights MUST turn off when the headlights go to high beam.) If your fog lights only operate when the high beams are on, something is wired backwards. I assume there is a relay somewhere in the circuit. If so, I suspect that you need to find terminals 87 and 87A on the relay, and move that connector from whichever it's on to the one that's empty.

What did you use for the front air dam, and where did you get clear lenses for the side marker lights?

Why doesn't that make sense? That is exactly how a 4-stroke engine works. They can't operate any other way. The crankshaft goes around twice for every one revolution of the cam shaft. The first time cylinder number 1 hits TDC it's on the compression stroke -- both valves closed. That's when it fires. Then the piston goes down on the power stroke. When the piston comes up again, the exhaust valve opens and the piston pushes the combustion residue out. When the pistol reaches TDC on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve closes and the intake valve opens. Then as the piston goes down it's on the intake stroke and it pulls in the fresh fuel-air mix for the next firing cycle. Then the intake valve closes and as the piston moves up it compresses the fresh fuel-air charge. Rinse and repeat. I'd say you had the #1 piston on TDC for the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke.

Are you looking to replace the actual Comanche bed, or are you asking about a molded, drop-in bed liner?

How old are your spark plug wires?

Those stock rims are 5.25" backspacing.

A former girlfriend lives in Montana. She's buying a used Toyota Highlander and she asked for my opinion of this snow plow rig. I know nothing about it. Does anyone know anything about it? https://www.agricover.com/snowsport/lt/

I don't remember -- does your MJ have a lift? What's your caster angle? Reduced caster contributes to death wobble.

An automotive wheel/tire is a gyroscope. Its natural tendency is to rotate true to its axis. If it wobbles, that means the wheel/tire is not balanced. Irrespective of loose track bars, loose tie rod ends, or anything else that may contribute to the severity -- none of those factors can cause death wobble. If anything, a properly balanced tire will cancel out any tendency to wobble, due to the gyroscope effect. The track bar on my original '88 Cherokee went bad late in the autumn one year, and I didn't get to replace it before the snow flew. I drove it to work every day for the entire winter, with about a quarter turn of free play at the steering wheel, before the snow melted and it warmed up enough for me to replace the track bar. There was never a hint of death wobble. Have your tires balanced.

The '89 keys don't interchange between the doors and the ignition. I discussed making my original '88 Cherokee into a one-key vehicle with a professional locksmith. The bottom line is that the door keys are "5-bit" keys (five tumblers), and the ignition keys are 6-bit keys (six tumblers). There's no good way to make one key that fits and operates properly in both keyways.

Rustoleum is paint. I would use bedliner.

You have the correct tank. Notice in the parts diagram above, both the 16- and 23-gallon tank take (2) #9 straps and (1) #11 rear strap.

The 16-gallon tank for the longbeds is the same, 3-strap tank as the 23-gallon tank. It has internal baffles to stop filling at 16-gallons. It was used on the base models with small tires to keep the gross vehicle weight down. AMC did the same thing with the Cherokee.

1986 only had the longbed, so the 23-gallon tank is correct. The 18-gallon tank is for the shortbed, which didn't come until the 1987 model year.

That's you clue as to which way to orient the assembly. "Left" is driver's side.

Have the crack welded up, then install the brace(s). Be sure whoever does the welding knows you'll be adding the brace. The weld should get good penetration so it can be ground fairly flush on the underside to allow the brace to be installed, without removing all of the weld.

I would put the adjusting sleeve on the driver's side. That puts it on the same side as the adjusting sleeve for the drag link.

The slider mechanisms are the same between the Comanche bench and the Cherokee buckets, it's the floor pedestals that are different. So you can remove the seats from the pedestals and mount the buckets to the MJ pedestals. One thing to be aware of is that many of the 80s Cherokee buckets had a "rocking chair" feature that allows for adjusting the angle of the seat base separately from the angle of the seat back. The seats that had the "rocking chair" function (typically found on the higher trim levels) will put the seat a couple of inches higher when installed on the Comanche buckets. This isn't a problem if you're less than 6 feet tall. It can be an issue for taller drivers. The seats with the rocking chair feature are easy to spot -- they have two levers for adjustment rather than the normal one lever.

Very common. The factory had two repair kits to address it, depending on how bad the crack was. It can (and should) be welded up.

I salute my brothers and sisters in arms. Today is our day. May it find you healthy and at peace.

Also, the transfer case shifter, the shifter gate that bolts to the floor, and the bezel for the transfer case shifter opening in the console. The best source is to pick up a complete Cherokee donor vehicle. Be sure it's a 2.5L, because you can't just bolt a transfer case to your existing transmission. You will need the 4WD transmission, and you'll only find the AX-4 or AX-5 behind the 2.5L (or the 2.8L V6).

It's not a myth.

They forgot the track bar!