Eagle

Many (most?) of the HO radiators don't have the bung for the aux fan switch.

I didn't need keys, and he knew that. I was in the shop to buy locksets for my house, but I took the opportunity to ask a professional about the possibility of converting my '88 to a single key vehicle. He had nothing to gain by telling me it couldn't be done.

That's what I thought, too. The locksmith told me that's not correct. I don't know. It wasn't worth it to me to waste money trying something that the professional had already told me couldn't be done.

They don't "attach." The mounting plates slide inside the flares, between the outer part (which is what you see) and the inner flange. The studs on the plates extend through the flare, through the fender, and get held in place by the flange nuts inside the fender.

The keys are the same length, so I think the spacing between the tumblers is different.

A locksmith told me that won't work. The ignition is a 6-bit lock (6 tumblers), and the door cylinders are 5-bit. If that's correct (and I have no reason to doubt him), what you want to do is impossible.

However it gets accomplished, I think bringing it under the Comanche Club umbrella is a good thing. My perception is that this site is the primary Internet resource for Comanche information, so IMHO it's better to bring that information here rather than have it somewhere else on the Internet.

Recent posts split. ajwyble, it makes no sense to ad a post looking for a part at the end of a four-year old discussion.

Please let us know if the ride height comes out at factory stock. The factory metric ton springs were NOT lift springs -- the ride height was the same as the standard suspension. The problem I have with General Spring's replacements is that too many people have reported they lift the back of the truck byt about 3 inches. That's completely unacceptable to me.

This is what scares me. I've been basically self-isolated in my house since early or mid-March. I go out on Saturdays to take my trash to the transfer station. I have been blessed by having two good friends who take care of grocery shopping for me, so I haven't starved. They leave the bags outside the garage door, then I bring the stuff in one item at a time, wiping down each item before it comes into the house. If that sounds paranoid ... it is. But remember, "Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me." With my medical history, if I get this thing, it won't be good. I am thankful that my friends understand that and are there for me. Pete, I'll pray for your parents' friend. Unfortunately, the recovery rate once a patient goes on the ventilator isn't good with COVID-19, and your parents should be prepared for that.

1. Suction cup 2. Stud welder and slide hammer

You're reading it wrong. That's indicating approximately 700 RPM. Note that the tach scale is linear -- all the way around, the divisions are the same size. BUT ... at the bottom end of the scale, they left off the tick for 250. No need for it, because the engine never runs at 250 RPM.

Doesn't matter why you replace it. The wire is sized for the load, and the fuse is sized for the wire. If the fuse blows, find out why and fix it. Using a higher capacity fuse is not a fix.

Duplicate threads merged. The brake lines are still 3/16", and all the fittings except at the distribution block are still 3/8-24.

Yes.

There's nothing wrong with using fuses. A fusible link is a fuse. That's not the problem with your idea. Where you went off the rails was when you described your plan. You said you would research what size fusible link each circuit needs and replace the fusible links with the same size fuses. So far , so goo. BUT ... then you said if the fuse blows, you would increase the fuse size until it doesn't blow. THAT's the problem. In any circuit, the wire size is selected based on the current to be carried. The fuse size is then selected to protect the wire. If you have a circuit that carries 17 amps, it's probably wired with the appropriate gauge of wire for 20 amps and protect by a 20-amp fuse (or fusible link). If you keep blowing 20-amp fuses and then replace the fuse with a 30-amp fuse -- now the circuit isn't proteted, and the entire length of the wire becomes a de facto fusible link. It's like in the old days when houses still had screw-in fuses. A fuse would blow, they didn't have a replacement fuse, so they put a penny in the socket. The lights went on ... and then they wondered why the house burned down.

19" sounds very low for the back, and 18.25" is an inch too high for the front.

Fuzzy recollection says around 21" to 21-1/2" ... but that's VERY fuzzy memory. What does yours measure?

Along with this question, what are you using for an ignition system? Do you still have the factory coil from the 2.8L, and are you using that?

There should be a matching connector on the driver's side in the engine compartment, back near the firewall, in between the brake booster and the intake manifold.

Coolant temperature doesn't make much difference to the spark plugs. What's important is running plugs that ere the correct heat range for the engine.

Are you asking about the hard lines (tubing), or the flex hoses at the front calipers and rear axle?

It's in the box. If you ever looked at the custom steering box part of AGR's web site, they offer (or used to) an option to select which spool valve you want, to give you more assist and less road feel, or less assist and more road feel. I think they had three or four different valvings to choose from.

AMC was notorious for engineering in too much boost in their power steering systems. The late-model (97+) XJs have less boost and much better road feel.

Do you know how to read spark plugs? https://www.wikihow.com/Read-a-Spark-Plug https://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/12/20/reading-101-how-to-read-your-spark-plugs/ https://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0612-reading-spark-plugs/