Eagle

The slider you have is aftermarket. The factory unit had a single sliding pane in the center. Your glass guy canNOT cut a flat piece of glass to fit and have it tempered. The factory rear glass is curved, not flat. As others have already stated, the rear window is installed like a windshield, with adhesive. What you refer to as the "seal" is just rubber trim, like on the late model Cherokee windshield. If you can't find a new trim gasket (which you probably can't), my suggestion is to use black RTV sealant. Cut/grind a plastic or metal putty knife into an arched profile, glob on the sealant, and use the custom puttu knife to shave it down to a smooth, slightly domed profile before it sets.

Black is always ground, so one of the others is the parking light filament, the other is the turn signal (bright) filament. Assuming you connected black to black, the worst that should happen if you got the other two reversed is that you'd have a very bright parking light and a very dim turn signal. When something lights up that shouldn't in the lighting circuit, it usually means a bad ground. Your parking light (or turn signal) lights up with the headlights, which suggests that the headlight has a bad ground and is seeking a ground through the parking light. To verify, remove the headlight bulb on that side and try it again -- I'll guess that the parking light won't light up.

Link to the '88 Electrical manual: https://archive.org/details/88FSM/page/n1/mode/2up

I was going to guess about 60/40. I was closer than I expected.

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-leaf-spring-accessories/jeep-leaf-spring-bushings-perches/rusty-s-u-bolt-plates-mj-comanche.html

There was never a 7-slot grille on a factory MJ. Jeep got away from the 7 slots, not only with the XJ and MJ but also with several other models over the years. Then Daimler-Chrysler bought AMC but did NOT buy AM General (the makers of the Humvee), and AM General started selling Hummers to the general public with 7 slot grilles. At that point, Daimler-Chrysler/Jeep decided that the 7-slot grille was a Jeep trademark, and they sued AM General. I don't recall the result of the case, but I think Daimler-Chrysler lost. After that, Jeep was suddenly more diligent in making certain that ALL Jeep models had 7-slot grilles -- including the 1997 Cherokee update. So, if you want a Comanche with a 7-slot grille, update to the new header and grille.

Be VERY careful about springs from General Spring. I think it's their springs that most people who have used them reported that the "stock replacement" springs lifted the back of the truck 2" to 3". That's not a proper stock replacement.

https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_lift_kits_suspension/bump_stops/rear-bump-stops

I prefer the look of the 10-slot.

What parts? Some Cherokee parts also fit the Comanche with no modifications. Some fit with modification. And some won't fit a Comanche at all. The list is too long to try to put in a post, so you tell us what you're looking at and we'll try to tell you if it works. ZJ Grand Cherokees don't have a lot that will work in the MJ. In particular, forget about using a ZJ rear axle.

Many (most?) of the HO radiators don't have the bung for the aux fan switch.

I didn't need keys, and he knew that. I was in the shop to buy locksets for my house, but I took the opportunity to ask a professional about the possibility of converting my '88 to a single key vehicle. He had nothing to gain by telling me it couldn't be done.

That's what I thought, too. The locksmith told me that's not correct. I don't know. It wasn't worth it to me to waste money trying something that the professional had already told me couldn't be done.

They don't "attach." The mounting plates slide inside the flares, between the outer part (which is what you see) and the inner flange. The studs on the plates extend through the flare, through the fender, and get held in place by the flange nuts inside the fender.

The keys are the same length, so I think the spacing between the tumblers is different.

A locksmith told me that won't work. The ignition is a 6-bit lock (6 tumblers), and the door cylinders are 5-bit. If that's correct (and I have no reason to doubt him), what you want to do is impossible.

However it gets accomplished, I think bringing it under the Comanche Club umbrella is a good thing. My perception is that this site is the primary Internet resource for Comanche information, so IMHO it's better to bring that information here rather than have it somewhere else on the Internet.

Recent posts split. ajwyble, it makes no sense to ad a post looking for a part at the end of a four-year old discussion.

Please let us know if the ride height comes out at factory stock. The factory metric ton springs were NOT lift springs -- the ride height was the same as the standard suspension. The problem I have with General Spring's replacements is that too many people have reported they lift the back of the truck byt about 3 inches. That's completely unacceptable to me.

This is what scares me. I've been basically self-isolated in my house since early or mid-March. I go out on Saturdays to take my trash to the transfer station. I have been blessed by having two good friends who take care of grocery shopping for me, so I haven't starved. They leave the bags outside the garage door, then I bring the stuff in one item at a time, wiping down each item before it comes into the house. If that sounds paranoid ... it is. But remember, "Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me." With my medical history, if I get this thing, it won't be good. I am thankful that my friends understand that and are there for me. Pete, I'll pray for your parents' friend. Unfortunately, the recovery rate once a patient goes on the ventilator isn't good with COVID-19, and your parents should be prepared for that.

1. Suction cup 2. Stud welder and slide hammer

You're reading it wrong. That's indicating approximately 700 RPM. Note that the tach scale is linear -- all the way around, the divisions are the same size. BUT ... at the bottom end of the scale, they left off the tick for 250. No need for it, because the engine never runs at 250 RPM.

Doesn't matter why you replace it. The wire is sized for the load, and the fuse is sized for the wire. If the fuse blows, find out why and fix it. Using a higher capacity fuse is not a fix.

Duplicate threads merged. The brake lines are still 3/16", and all the fittings except at the distribution block are still 3/8-24.

Yes.