Eagle

^^^ So what's the bolt circle on the '05 and newer Grands? I know they have gone to larger rims, but I wasn't aware they changed the bolt circle again.

According to Pete M, Dodge ran the AX-15 transmission behind the 2.5L in the Dakota pickup. That's the bellhousing you need if you want to do it.

Nous parlons français aussi (un petit peue, et très mal)

Also, a WJ Grand Cherokee (99+) uses a different bolt pattern for the wheels. MJ rims are 5 on 4-1/2", WJs are 5 on 5"

Welcome to the collective. Stick around. We Americans talk to Canadians. In fact, we talk to anyone who likes Comanches.

FWIW, you can mount 1-3/4" shoes in a 2-1/2" drum setup and all you lose is a bit of braking power. Which isn't an issue if you don't haul full loads often. However, you canNOT convert the 1-3/4" to 2-1/2" by just buying new drums and shoes. The offset from the hub mounting surface is different, and the deeper drums bottom out against the backing plates before they contact the hub mounting surface.

He should pay you to take it out of his yard. Sheesh! I hope somebody will rescue it from the scrap heap, but it ain't worth 500 clams. The one I bought out of the local wrecking yard for $100 is in much better shape than that.

Yes, they use C-clips. So does the '90 and newer Dana 35, and all the Chrysler 8-1/4s. If the axle breaks, the wheel departs from beneath the Jeep.

As TAZ wrote -- the only way to be sure is to pull a drum and measure. My guess is you'll find that they are 10" x 2-1/2".

Keep in mind that a leak like that could also be the rubber section of the line between the (clutch) master cylinder and the slave cylinder. Even if your leak is the slave, that hose is now 22 years old and has a lot of miles and a lot of time on it. Replace it now, when doing the slave. Otherwise, you'll be like me -- ALL new clutch, master cylinder, and slave cylinder -- 100 miles from home on an Interstate toll highway, with NO clutch. Whatever part it is -- master, slave, or hose -- be sure to use genuine Jeep parts. For whatever reason, aftermarket clutch and slave cylinders seem to have a life expectancy not better than about 6 months. This is one place where it is definitely worthwhile spending the extra coin for the genuine parts.

I've been running one of Harbor Freight's cheap receiver brake lights. It's broken now -- a state cop tried to help when the engine died in the middle of an intersection, and he neatly put his push bar right on the lens. Can't fault him, though -- we had to get the truck out of the road, and the whole thing only cost $4.99. Price went up: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=44039 Also available in LED: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92043 Mine is wired to the trailer wiring and also blinks with the right turn signal, but you could wire it back to the switch on the brake pedal and have it always work with the brakes, independent of the turn signals and flashers.

Not quite that simple. The CAD needs vacuum to slide it either way. The old Grand Wagoneers used a vacuum switch to lock the full-time 4WD. I've seen some very nice conversions using that to control the CAD. For most people and most purposes, though, the simplest and cheapest approach is to engage it and shim it to stay that way.

I would connect it to a hand-held idle tach and use that to run the RPMs up to 1,000 or 1,500 RPM, and check the cluster tach against the hand-held at the higher RPM. If you have a RENIX, you can find outputs for the tach in one of those two yellow diagostic connector blocks. I don't recall which pins you use, but I can look it up. I think one is labeled "Tach Output" and the other is "Tach Ground" (or something like that) Okay, it's the smaller diagnostic block that has the tach output. For both the 2.5L and the 4.0L it's terminal number 1, which is fed with a green wire with a tracer. The other wire from the idle tach would go to ground, I guess. I'll see if I can simulate the diagram: ________ ¡ (4) (1) ¡ ¡ . . . . < ¡ (5) (2) ¡ ¡ . . . . < ¡ (6) (3) ¡ ¡______¡ Best I can do. Sorry.

The XJ valve is calibrated for smaller XJ drums in the rear. The ZJ is calibrated for rear disks. I think I'd go with the ZJ valve.

The Comanche Cherokee/Comanche 2.5L 4-cyl had throttle body injection from 86 through 90, and multiport injection from 91 through 2000. That has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 2.8L V6. That would be my first (and last, and only) choice for a 4-cylinder swap. If you want a better V6, use a 3.4L out of a rear wheel drive Camaro or Firebird. (It has to be from a rear wheel drive vehicle.)

Get a multimeter and check it at the battery. The voltmeter in my '88 XJ reads barely above 12 volts during the day with no lights or accessories running, and has been like that for about four or five years. Tested at the battery I'm showing just about 14 volts with the engine at idle. Gotta be some voltage drop in the wiring to the gauge, but I haven't bothered to trace it down.

Two year old gas? Two year old gasoline = varnish.

Why? A sloppy track bar doesn't cause death wobble. It just causes imprecise steering. Ditto a loose over-center adjustment in the steering box.

If everyone calls it that, why have I never heard it? :hmm:

Yep ... there's very little difference between a 235/75-15 and a 30x9.50-15. The "30" will be a bit wider at the cross section ... but depending on the tires being compared, that may not mean much wider at the tread. A 235 works out to 9.25 inches of cross-section width. A 9.50 is 9.5" at the cross-section. A 237/75-15 in theory is 28.88" in diameter. Most 30x9.50s run about 29.5 ... and most 31s actually run about 30.5.

Yep. It'll be a low pinion, but it'll bolt in.

I scored 13%. Being officially color-blind probably doesn't help ... That's why the U.S. Army didn't want me hooking little colored wires to things that go BOOM!

No Cherokee driveshaft will fit. The XJ is several inches shorter than even a SWB Comanche.

There is (or was) a place in Texas that does (did) the same thing. I think they called themselves Wagonmaster. Yep: http://www.wagonmaster.com/

If the front axle you saw is really from a '98, double check that ratio. 3.73 was not a factory ratio in 1998. Chrysler had pretty much standardized by then. ALL 4.0L 5'speeds were 3.07, ALL 4.0L automatics were 3.55, and ALL 4-cylinders were 4.10.