Eagle

I've been running one of Harbor Freight's cheap receiver brake lights. It's broken now -- a state cop tried to help when the engine died in the middle of an intersection, and he neatly put his push bar right on the lens. Can't fault him, though -- we had to get the truck out of the road, and the whole thing only cost $4.99. Price went up: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=44039 Also available in LED: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92043 Mine is wired to the trailer wiring and also blinks with the right turn signal, but you could wire it back to the switch on the brake pedal and have it always work with the brakes, independent of the turn signals and flashers.

Not quite that simple. The CAD needs vacuum to slide it either way. The old Grand Wagoneers used a vacuum switch to lock the full-time 4WD. I've seen some very nice conversions using that to control the CAD. For most people and most purposes, though, the simplest and cheapest approach is to engage it and shim it to stay that way.

I would connect it to a hand-held idle tach and use that to run the RPMs up to 1,000 or 1,500 RPM, and check the cluster tach against the hand-held at the higher RPM. If you have a RENIX, you can find outputs for the tach in one of those two yellow diagostic connector blocks. I don't recall which pins you use, but I can look it up. I think one is labeled "Tach Output" and the other is "Tach Ground" (or something like that) Okay, it's the smaller diagnostic block that has the tach output. For both the 2.5L and the 4.0L it's terminal number 1, which is fed with a green wire with a tracer. The other wire from the idle tach would go to ground, I guess. I'll see if I can simulate the diagram: ________ ¡ (4) (1) ¡ ¡ . . . . < ¡ (5) (2) ¡ ¡ . . . . < ¡ (6) (3) ¡ ¡______¡ Best I can do. Sorry.

The XJ valve is calibrated for smaller XJ drums in the rear. The ZJ is calibrated for rear disks. I think I'd go with the ZJ valve.

The Comanche Cherokee/Comanche 2.5L 4-cyl had throttle body injection from 86 through 90, and multiport injection from 91 through 2000. That has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 2.8L V6. That would be my first (and last, and only) choice for a 4-cylinder swap. If you want a better V6, use a 3.4L out of a rear wheel drive Camaro or Firebird. (It has to be from a rear wheel drive vehicle.)

Get a multimeter and check it at the battery. The voltmeter in my '88 XJ reads barely above 12 volts during the day with no lights or accessories running, and has been like that for about four or five years. Tested at the battery I'm showing just about 14 volts with the engine at idle. Gotta be some voltage drop in the wiring to the gauge, but I haven't bothered to trace it down.

Two year old gas? Two year old gasoline = varnish.

Why? A sloppy track bar doesn't cause death wobble. It just causes imprecise steering. Ditto a loose over-center adjustment in the steering box.

If everyone calls it that, why have I never heard it? :hmm:

Yep ... there's very little difference between a 235/75-15 and a 30x9.50-15. The "30" will be a bit wider at the cross section ... but depending on the tires being compared, that may not mean much wider at the tread. A 235 works out to 9.25 inches of cross-section width. A 9.50 is 9.5" at the cross-section. A 237/75-15 in theory is 28.88" in diameter. Most 30x9.50s run about 29.5 ... and most 31s actually run about 30.5.

Yep. It'll be a low pinion, but it'll bolt in.

I scored 13%. Being officially color-blind probably doesn't help ... That's why the U.S. Army didn't want me hooking little colored wires to things that go BOOM!

No Cherokee driveshaft will fit. The XJ is several inches shorter than even a SWB Comanche.

There is (or was) a place in Texas that does (did) the same thing. I think they called themselves Wagonmaster. Yep: http://www.wagonmaster.com/

If the front axle you saw is really from a '98, double check that ratio. 3.73 was not a factory ratio in 1998. Chrysler had pretty much standardized by then. ALL 4.0L 5'speeds were 3.07, ALL 4.0L automatics were 3.55, and ALL 4-cylinders were 4.10.

The fusible link is a fuse. The purpose is to protect the system, and to reduce the possibility of underhood fires. If you replaced the fusible link with a heavier gauge wire, you need a fuse. You can get heavy-duty, 100-amp in-line fuses at marine supply places, and my brother told me that Auto Zone may now carry them.

You didn't change or adjust the steering box when you did the lift, correct? Did you have death wobble before you did the lift? What changed with the lift? Look there first. Have you seen the super-mega-thread and poll we had awhile back on the subjject of what causes death wobble, and why? It would behoove you to read it. (Even if some of the opinions don't agree with mine.)

Why, because you didn't get fifteen responses in less than four hours? Patience is a virtue, grasshopper.

The 13.5 gallon capacity was in early base model Cherokees. I don't think it was ever in the MJ -- the tanks are totally different. Unless you had a build sheet run the day the vehicle was purchased, you really can't trust them too much. Chrysler apparently recycled some of the codes, so running a build sheet on an older XJ or MJ results in some eye-opening option listings that were never available in the year of the vehicle.

I'm a Canon advocate, going back to the 1960s. They have the best lenses in the industry (although Nikon lovers will dispute that), and they are the industry leaders with regard to digital sensor technology (and even most Nikon lovers admit to that). Your best deal is probably going to be Wal-Mart. Get the PowerShot A580 -- or by now it may have moved up to A590 or A680 ... a lot can change in six months. Should cost you around 100 clams or a bit over. It's small, light, offers multiple shooting modes, and even has video capability.

Will the gauge register 9 volts? 9 volts is the bottom end of the scale, nez pas?

Also inspect carefully to see that the spring perches on the axle are actually centered on the springs. If the centering pins got rusty enough, they could have sheared off and allowed the axle to shift sideways.

You are (IMHO) going at this wrong. The stock MJ springs are only 3-leaf springs. If the truck has a metric ton suspension, it may have 4 leaves, or it may have 3 plus 2 overloads. You can't count the overload leaves for daily driving, because they aren't being used until the box gets loaded down and the springs compress. Just put a 3" AAL in the back if you want 3 inches. Don't make life more difficult than it has to be. BTW -- you don't need 3" of lift to run 31s on an MJ.

Pete gave you the standard answer based on both ends. I would add that, based on personal experience, even 30x9.50s will probably rub the lower control arms. The usual consensus is that the largest tire that's virtually guaranteed to not rub is a 235/75-15. However, your question specified rear, and the MJ has a larger rear wheel arch than the XJ. In terms of tire diameter, you can easily run 31x10.50s with no problems and no cutting, and you might be able to get away with 32s or even 33s. Except ... Because of the different construction at the back of the MJ, the rear wheels and tires sit closer to the inner wall of the wheel well. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims, after a wheeling expedition I would always find rubber marks on the inside sirface of the wheel well where the shoulder of the tire rubbed when the axle got "articulated." Anything wider than a 10.50 would be essentially an interference fit ... and would also be running perilously close to the leaf spring. If you run spacers or rims with less backspacing, that will push the tires out to possibly alleviate the shoulder rubbing the sheet metal, but then you have to worry about the tread clearing the flares. I never tried aftermarket rims or tires larger than 31x10.50 so I am not qualified to address how much trimming might be necessary once you get away from factory rims.

New tailgate handle assemblies were still available from Jeep awhile back, but prohibitively expensive. Someone posted not too long ago that the handle for some Ford of Chevy is the same, and can be bought from the parts chain stiores for half the price. The screws are torx head screws, and I believe there are three of them. One of my MJs had one side of the handle broken when I got it. I took it out, wire brushed it, and welded it together.