Eagle

The nutter bypass is normally done on 4.2L carbed motors isnt it? How would I apply this to my vehicle since I'm going from TBI to carbed? It was also done to the 84 and 85 carbureted 2.5L Cherokees. If you're going to go to a carburetor, you're going to need a distributor and an ignition system. The 84/85 XJ would seem like the most probable source, so it would make sense to do the Nutter bypass while installing the parts.

Where are you located?

I used to autocross, back in my pony car days. Season runner-up in class two years, state champion in class third year. That video was fun to watch, but if anyone were to actually drive like that at an event, if they weren't disqualified for being a hazard they'd be laughed right off the course. It's no different than drag racing -- if your tires are making smoke, you're not going anywhere and the name of the game is still to get around the course in the minumum time possible.

So the vent drums come out with the bezel? Excellent -- if I don't trash the bezel. Mine's a 5-speed, so I assume you want me to put it in 2nd or 4th. Where do I pull to have the bezel come off intact rather than in small pieces? Top? Bottom? Sides? Pull up like it's hinged at the top, or straight out?

The 2.5L engine came from the factory with a (junk) carburetor for the first two years of the XJ. I'm old enough to remember decent carburetors and they have a lot to recommend themselves. They're easy to work on, easy to rebuild (if you can find the kits), and they can be tuned. With injectors, the only "tuning" is to buy a larger or smaller injector. That one TBI injector for the 2.5L costs more than a carburetor would IMHO, if I had lots of $$$ I'd convert a 2.5L to a late-model, multi-port injected system and run a Mopar Stage 2 or Stage 3 cam. But if I were on a budget -- yeah, I'd throw a carb and an old-fashioned ignition system in it. Be sure to Google up "Nutter bypass" if you do this.

BUY IT! ("It's for the children")

Thanks, Taz. That makes perfect sense ... but it doesn't explain how one of the two center vents blows lots of warm/hot air, and the other blows less/colder air. I guess I need to look inside with a bright flashlight and see who/what's living in there. The FSM suggests that I can just pop the vent drums out of the face of the dash -- any verification that a fumble-fingers like me could actually do that without trashing the part AND the dashboard?

The Rancho is not a true "full" length AAL in an MJ, since the same kit also fits the XJ. It is pretty much a full-length in an XJ. It gives about 2-1/2" in an XJ and an inch less in an MJ. The kit comes with new center pins and a couple of rebound clips. (Not enough -- you can get additional rebound clips from Husky Spring www.huskyspring.com )

Yeah -- but the rest of us still have to try to figure out what he's trying to say. Life's too short - I speak English, not TXT MSG

I'm not sure. The late model XJs have a slightly more complex/civilized HVAC system than the early ones. I wasn't running a/c, just trying to get heat out of the face-level outlets rather than the under-dash outlets. I *THINK* the temperature is controlled by varying the blend of outside air and the amount of air from the heater core. But I'm not sure. But what has me baffled is why one half of the two center outlets (which look like they are in the same housing) has heat and the other one doesn't.

A few days ago we had a snowstorm that turned to freezing rain. Left a mess. My brother plowed my driveway, which basically left a sheet of ice. And it's a fairly long driveway, that gets progressively steeper (uphill) as you get to the street. Last night, unbeknownst to me, we had a dusting of snow. The snow cover just made the ice even more slippery -- if that's possible. My first clue was the sound of a truck engine revving up ... and revving up ... and revving up some more. I looked out to discover that FedEx had driven in to deliver a package, couldn't make it out the top of the driveway, and then backed into a snow bank trying to back down for a second try. So my day started by putting on warm clothes, boots, and trudging out to talk to the moron FedEx driver. They apparently have no system in place for if they get stuck. So ... I backed out the wife's XJ (hers came with a hitch, I haven't installed the hitch on my 2000 XJ Sport yet), backed up the driveway, and looped a snatch strap from the XJ to the support for FedEx's rear step platform. Then I had to explain to the dweeb (about six times :mad: ) to keep the steering wheel straight, put the truck in reverse, and NOT to gun it and spin the wheels. Took me about three modest yanks to get him free. So naturally he immediately tried to steer and back up under his own power. Mercifully, instead of smashing into the XJ he just managed to do a lateral traverse and get the opposite side of his truck stuck in the snowbank on the other side of the driveway. So, I explained yet again that he should just relax and leave the driving to us -- keep the steering wheel straight, let it idle in reverse, and let ME pull him into the center of the driveway. It took a few more yanks the second time, but I got him centered up. Then I cut him loose, parked the XJ as far away from him as I could get it, and walked out to the street so I could see when traffic was clear and wave him out so he could get a good running start. He made it. I don't think he believed me when I said I could pull him out with a Cherokee.

Dude -- This is a discussion forum, not a cell phone. Please don't use TXT MSG abbreviations on here, it makes it a LOT more difficult for the rest of us to know what you're trying to say. For example, what I see in the above is that you want to carry one more pound in the rear of your MJ. ("lb" is the abbreviation for "pound," remember?) The MJ is rated to carry 1400 pounds, so why you need to change the springs to carry one more pound doesn't make sense.

Rancho has a $50 full-length AAL that's good for 1-1/2" in an MJ. I'd go with that.

I have a problem with my 2000 XJ Sport that I need some guidance with. On a long trip last week, I noticed that when I have the heater controls set to blow through the outlets on the front of the dashboard, the two center outlets (the ones just above the radio) don't blow the same. The one on the driver's side will blow warm or hot air, and at a pretty forceful velocity if I have the fan up to anything besides the slow setting. But the outlet just beside it will be blowing cold or much cooler air, and at substantially less volume and/or velocity. I would have thought those two outlets would be fed from a common duct, but that's apparently not correct. Have any of you encountered this? Got any idea how difficult it might be to try to correct it? It has to get fixed -- this explains why my wife is never happy with where I have the heat set -- in order to send heat her way, I have to crank it up far enough that I get baked.

Argent is a color (silver/grey), not a style. The 9-slot wheel was indeed the base wheel on the YJ, but I don't think it survived to be used on the TJ. However, I've been wrong before (I just try not to admit it publicly).

I don't see how that could be a great resource for WJ wheels, since the WJ has a 5-on-5 bolt circle and the wheels shown are pretty much all 5-on-4 1/2.

I posted a quote from the FSM on measuring height awhile back. Try a search. If you can't find it I'll dig it out again, but I'm too tired to go looking tonight.

The 6-slot steelie listed as the base wheel for the XJ & TJ is correct only for late-model XJs. That's a 15x7 rim that was introduced in the 1988 model year as an option. The base rim through at least 1990 was a 15x6 rim with 9 rectangular slots around the perimeter of the center section.

I didn't know you could reprogram for yourself. Is that covered in the FSM? I have a leftover remote from the '99 WJ lemon that Chrysler boiught back from me. I also have a 2000 XJ that replaced the {99 WJ. If I have both original remotes from the XJ, can I add the WJ as a third remote that will work on that vehicle? I was under the impression that all reprogramming had to be done with the dealer's scan tool.

For all the rhetoric about the Yoo Ess of Ay being a capitalist, free market economy -- it's a myth. This country has had artificial price supports for years for things like milk and dairy products, soy products, etc. And we manipulate other agricultural markets by paying "farmers" not to grow certain crops. I don't know what the answer is for the economy, but one thing I am fairly sure of ... it ain't gonna get better in an hurry, no mater what they try in Washington,. And the more they meddle with it, the longer the recovery will take.

Nope. It's not a variable resistor, like the sender for the gauges. It's an ON-OFF switch. The only way to test it is to connect a small battery and test light to it, and suspend the sensor tip in a pan of water on the stove. Use a candy thermometor to monitor the water temp and see when the light comes on.

Look, Mate. Sarcasm is not appreciated when we are trying to help you with YOUR problem. If you don't want help, stay off the computer and figure it out by yourself. If the engine / cooling system was hot enough to turn on the light, or even hot enough to be at normal operating temperature, removing the radiator cap WOULD have resulted in a geyser, the radiator cap being launched, and your father getting scalded. The temperature of the system runs around 210 degrees or so. Human skin gets scalded at temperatures over about 110 or 120 degrees. If it didn't blow up when your father removed the cap, it wasn't up to temperature, and thus definitely should not have been blinking the light on and off. If your radiator was full but not getting hot, is it possible it was frozen? What was the air temperature, and what temperature is your anti-freeze good for? Also, is it possible that your water pump isn't pumping? Or that your thermostat is stuck, either closed or partially closed?

Don't count the factory MJ overload leaf. It normally doesn't make contact with the rest of the spring pack. You want to fit the AAL into the rest of the pack wherever it goes so the lengths go progressively from shortest on the bottom to longest just beneath the main leaf.

If I were going to swap in a V8, it would be an AMC 401.

There is no way your father, any other mortal human, or even Superman could open a radiator cap of a vehicle at operating temperature and properly filled, and not have a LOT of very hot coolant come spewing out. My guess is that your coolant level was so low that the coolant was overheated, but because of the amount of coolant (not) in the system, there was an air pocket in the head where the sensor is and it was "seeing" coolant only sporadically. What year MJ and what engine? It would help to know what kind of cooling system your truck has.