Eagle

This is NOT the correct way to do an alignment. The previous statement that the steering box is tighter over-center is correct, and moving the pitman arm on the shaft sets the box so it isn't on-center internally when the wheels are going straight ahead. You ARE correct that if the drag link needs a large adjustment, it can result in an incremental (tiny) change in toe-in. Usually the change is so small that it can't even be measured, or if it shows up it's not worth readjusting the toe to take it out. But, centering the steering wheel SHOULD be done with the adjusting sleeve on the draglink, not by moving the pitman arm. The toe-in should then be re-checked, and corrected IF necessary. Do not attempt to align by removing the pitman arm from the steering box.

Tempered glass cannot be cut -- period. It doesn't cut, it shatters. But laminated safety glass can be cut. That's what ALL automobile windows were made of up through the 1950s and maybe into the 60s -- don't remember just when I started seeing tempered glass windows. I wouldn't have any problem using laminated glass for a rear window -- and it would be considerably more resistant to theft, because it WON'T all drop out if broken by a rock. Or Lexan -- but you need to allow for more expansion and contraction due to temperature with plastic than you do with glass.

Ain't it the truth. That's the trouble with the world today ... nobody wants to think. If it isn't in a catalog, "It can't be done." Unless you know somebody who has done it ... On another forum, just yesterday somebody posted a link to a video of an excursion by some journalist to an illegal arms center (meaning the entire town, not just a building) in Pakistan. They have pics of young kids making ammunition by hand with a hammer. They showed a deaf mute making 9mm pistols entirely by hand -- not a CNC machine in sight. The video is probably a fake. After all, anyone knows you can't make guns without CNC machines. See if this link works http://www.vbs.tv/full_screen.php?s=DGF ... sc=1363196

As noted, the 'X' was '86 only. The 2.8L V6 was a dog of an engine, but if the body is reasonably solid, IMHO any MJ is worth $100. You can always buy a junkyard Camaro 3.4L and swap it in ... the block is the same, so it's an easy swap to a much better engine. Interesting ad. The fender flares are stock, factory parts. I guess maybe Jeep did refer to those wheels as "Rallye" wheels at one time, but they are actually the base level, 15x6 steel rims. Fortunately, all MJ, XJ, ZJ and YJ 15x7 aluminum rims fit, and are readily available.

Gee, I think I said that about six times above. :D Which, "cathodic" or "cathodic"? Don't tell me you're one of THOSE people who fail to appreciate bad puns?

I agree, it's a sad commentary that you had to do the postal service's work for them, but at least you got the ball rolling and they have found the culprit. I don't suppose they're going to invite you to be there when they slap the cuffs on her? That WOULD be sweet.

Going back to the original post -- most of the things people blame for death wobble do not (and cannot) "cause" death wobble ... but they CAN make it easier for death wobble to happen. The cause remains something that makes a front wheel start wobbling, and that's usually either tire balance or a bent rim. In my first episode, it was a warped front rotor. One of the things that makes it easier for death wobble to happen is insufficient caster angle. And it just so happens that when you do a lift, the front axle swings down and back around the frame end control arm mounts ... thus reducing the caster angle. Experiencing death wobble after a lift is quite common, because the first stop after a lift should be the alignment shop and most people skip that step.

This forum has had classifieds for as far back as I can remember. It only makes sense that items for sale and items wanted should be posted under that umbrella. Pat, I don't know what other forums you frequent, but I'm an admin on another forum, and having people try to sneak blatant for sale posts into all the technical discussion areas (even though we have a more structured classified area than here) is a HUGE problem. The people who do it complain when they get their wrist slapped, and if we don't slap wrists ... the people whose threads get hijacked complain. There's no win-win solution to it. So ... we enforce the rule. For sale stuff goes in the classifieds.

Don't glass shops CUT glass any more? Back when I was restoring a 1939 Hudson, I took it to a local glass shop and they cut sheets of flat safety glass to make new door windows, new side windows, and new vent wing windows. This is going back a number of years, but it was no big deal. The rear window is flat -- it shouldn't be hard to make one.

Here's a link to the JC Witless product: http://www.jcwhitney.com/EASY-TO-TRIM-R ... _10101.jcw

Maybe the torque converter isn't engaging? A friend in NAXJA found that with his 89 XJ with AW4. He never noticed around town and going from home to Paragon, but when he hit the highway to Moab it was immediately obvious. He wired in an override switch to lock the torque converter IN, not to lock out the lockup.

The printed circuit board is not the same for the gauges and for the idiot lights. In fact, the printed circuit is different for gauges with the large gas gauge than for gauges with the tach.

Either you're not getting overdrive or your torque converter isn't locking up. Or you have the wrong speedo gear. With 4.10 gears and 33" tires, the RPMs at 70 MPH in overdrive should be about 2200. With 4.56 gears it would be 2450, and with 4.88s it would be 2600. Which is nothing for that engine. Don't forget, that's the way the engine was originally designed. Most cars didn't have overdrive in 1964, when the original 232 (3.8L) version of that engine was introduced. I had a 1966 Rambler American with a three-speed manual. The gearing with stock tires worked out to 24 MPH per 1000 RPM, which meant that 60 MPH was 2500 RPM exactly, and 3000 RPM was a 72 MPH cruise. I sold mine long before it got tired, but my brother's 70 Gremlin with the same gearing was at 318,000 miles when we last got any feedback on it.

I would not waste MJ (or XJ) flares on such a project. JC Whitney has rubber universal flare material that will easily conform to the Explorer fender contour better, with a lot less work.

The simple, expedient solution is the add-on PRNDL that gets screwed to the top of the steering column. The more elegant solution is to modify the new cluster to accept the PRNDL out of the old cluster. And the way I would probably go would be to change the whole mess over to an MJ floor shifter.

3.73s are the right gear for 30" tires. 4.10s for 31s 4.56 for 33s 4.88 for 35s or larger (and 4.88s aren't horrible with 33s)

It's called cathodic protection, and everything I have read about it suggests that it works very well. (That's "cathodic" protection, not "cathartic.")

AFAIK the pop-tops (except the base, finish-it-yourself shell version) has the same flush toilet you get in a full-height camper like Luke's. I wouldn't have a camper that didn't have one, either.

The other two places you could lose fluid are the master cylinder, and the hose. You want to find out quickly, because when the master cylinder leaks, the fluid usually follows the rod through the firewall and drips onto the fuse panel inside. And what brake (clutch) fluid does to electrical panels is not pretty.

The lock cylinders are held in by flat spring U clips, which you can pop off from inside the door. Remove the inner door trim panel and you'll have access. Don-t bother with used. You should be able to buy NEW, with NEW keys, from any of the chain parts stores for around $10 each.

If it's steel, it's probably original. If it's plastic, it's a gravel shield, not a skid plate.

I sit corrected. I keep forgetting that Jeep treated the Pioneer differently in the XJ than in the MJ. In the XJ, which I bought new in 1988, the Pioneer model included full instruments. Apparently in the MJ it did not -- although the '87 MJ Pioneer I bought used does have full instrumentation. Sorry. Alzheimer's, ya know.

If it has idiot lights, it isn't a Pioneer. And those aren't '89 wheels, those are 2000 XJ (Cherokee) wheels. Nothing wrong with that, but just be aware that things you can see have obviously been changed, so things you can't see might also have been changed. $1,200 sounds like a really good price for a low-mileage truck like that. Swapping the idiot light cluster for one with gauges is very easy. There are several write-ups on it around this forum.

There's "self-sufficient," and then there's "luxury." Pretty much any slide-in camper is going to be self-contained and self-sufficient, once you move beyond a simple cap (which my idiot state claims turns any pickup into a "camper"). There are two or three companies making the pop-top type like Summerinmaine's, and the level of finish and equipment (and thus the weight) varies. You can buy a basic shell that you finish out yourself, or two or three levels of finish. What I found a few years ago when I was researching it is that regardless of pop-top or hardtop, there are a LOT fewer choices for the compact pickups than there are for the full-size trucks. Keep in mind that weight affects more than stability. You also have to move that weight down the road, and regardless of how good the 4.0L Jeep engine is -- it ain't a 454 Chevy mountain mover. My plan was to go with the lower level of finish and gimmicks, partly to keep the weight down and partly because I was always a tent camper, and trying to bring an entire house along for the ride just doesn't strike me as "camping." The slide-in was my concession to advancing age, but it now appears that my camping days are over so it becomes an academic discussion.

That has been my impression, too. When I wqas shopping for a camper for mine (an idea totally squelched by SWMBO), I was looking for a pop-top like Summerinmaine's rather than a full height unit like Luke's, in order to keep the center of gravity lower on the road and to reduce windage.